Try disconnecting the battery, touch the two battery cables together, and the reconnect and try to start. Essentiallly what you are doing by touching the battery cables together is discharging the internal capacitors of the ECU and kinda resetting it. See if that works.

 

Hey Duckman,

Thanks for that. I disconnected the battery overnight and reconnected it this morning - but will try to 'discharge' it tomorrow by connecting the two terminals. To be honest, I'm not especially hopeful given the overwhelming number of threads concerning this issue - but we'll see.

I think I'm just getting a little disheartened... I'm sure by tomorrow I'll have a clear perspective again, and the solution will present itself. I'm just reluctant to bring the bike in to the local shop.

Thanks again,

Epi

 

It absolutely is a "do it yourself" job, especially if you have the skills to rebuild a crashed bike in the first place!

Do you still have the red key? The immobilizer card?

Worst case scenario, replace the ECU and Immobilizer. About $450 last time i checked.

 

I almost never removed the key from my old s4r or my current bike. It's rare that it sits more than a day or two, but sounds pretty stupid if that is programmed into the bike from the factory. What could the reasoning be in that? Surely the red key fix mentioned above will work.

Good luck.

 

That's odd, I have forgotten my key in the ignition several times overnight and never had a problem starting it in the morning...

 

Hey guys,

Yeah - I thought that was a pretty lame feature as well... but I read about it here:

http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/index.php?topic=45697.0

My dealer mentioned not to leave the key in the ignition due to the RF id...it will trigger the immoilizer after a period of inactivity.

According to my dealer this “undocumented feature” is to prevent someone riding off if you’ve forgotten your key for example quickly popping into a convenience store…

Given just how tempermental these things are (search for imobilizer and you'll see what I mean), I wouldnt be surprized if this is what caused my latest headache.

NAKED, regardless of the cause, you were right on with your advice...

Third flashing indication (possible
immobilizer system faults):
- the immobilizer is trouble-free if
the led (1) is off
- a flash indicates a communication
error between the decoder in the
instrument panel and engine
control unit via serial line ISO 9141/
5

- two flashes indicate a failure of the
inserted key, the antenna on the
ignition switch or both

- three flashes indicate that the
inserted key has not been
acknowledged by the system
- four flashes indicate that the
engine control unit is programmed
but the decoder in the instrument
panel is not programmed

So in my case (two flashes), it looks like a failure to send/receive a signal from the key.

All three keys have been tried, and all three produce the same two flashes.

Using the red key fails to start the 4 key sequence (eg. "key 1" doesn't appear on the LCD).

Using the throttle fails to start the over-ride sequence.

Sooooo, I'm thinking a pooched board?

I'll take the guage cluster appart tonight to see if there is any physical damage (loose chips or whatever), cross the terminals to drain any residual charge, and prey for the best. Thankfully, hollowellreid's responce gives me some hope that I can DIY this thing back into life.

Time will tell.

Again, thanks to everyone who has provided insight to this latest challenge. VERY much appreciated!

Epi

 

Let us know if you can bump start it or start by jumping the soleniod?

 

Let us know if you can bump start it or start by jumping the soleniod?

If the immobilizer is locking him out, the ignition system should be shut off, not just the starting circuit.

 

There are a few posts here regarding what I'm calling the "two flash immobilizer issue". Two of those posts suggest turning the key on and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. The logic is that if it starts I likely have a bad ecu - if not, then it's a bad immobilizer. I guess I'll find out more when I get home from work tonight and give it a shot.

I don't quite follow the logic myself - but at this point, if someone suggested drawing a pentagram in chicken blood around bike; I'd be out the door to find me some poultry >

 

I have LA's old S4R and I never take the key out... it may sit for 2wks or better... the key is not turned "on" but it is left in the ignition...

when did they start that feature?

 

If the immobilizer is locking him out, the ignition system should be shut off, not just the starting circuit.

Starting circuit is also run through the ECU on the newer 5.9 bikes and waits for a "request" from the starter swith to send a signal to the solenoid.

 

I had a problem with the Immobilizer on my MTS after a crash. on the MTS you can put the bike in diagnostic mode, and I was able to find the error and fix it myself. turned out that the IMMO antenna was damaged. I don't know if this feature is also available on the S2R..... but probably worth a shot



If the EOBD sign (the code sign) appears, you can check for the error by turning off, holding down the left clock button and keeping it held down whilst turning the ignition on. The error code(s) will then be displayed.

Check them against these:

1.1 TPS Disconnected
1.2 TPS short circuit to earth
2.1 Pressure Sensor short circuit to power supply
2.2 Pressure Sensor shorted to earth
3.1 Water Temp Sensor shorted to power supply
3.2 Water Temp Sensor shorted to earth
4.1 Air Temp Sensor shorted to power supply
4.2 Air Temp Sensor Shorted to earth
5.1 Battery Hi
5.2 Battery Lo

10.1 Hor. Coil shorted to power supply
10.2 Hor. Coil shorted to earth
11.1 Ver. Coil shorted to power supply
11.2 Ver. Coil shorted to earth
12.1 Inj1 shorted to power supply
12.2 Inj1 shorted to earth
13.1 Inj2 shorted to power supply
13.2 Inj2 shorted to earth
14.1 Inj3 shorted to to power supply
14.2 Inj3 shorted to earth
15.1 Inj4 shorted to powersupply
15.2 Inj4 shorted to earth
16.0 Pump Relay
17.1 LH Fan shorted to poer supply
17.2 LH Fan shorted to earth
18.1 RH Fan shorted to power supply
18.2 RH Fan shorted to earth
19.1 Starter Solenoid shorted to power supply
19.2 Starter Solenoid shorted to earth

30.0 ROM/Eprom error
34.0 Signal Panel Sensor
36.0 Speed sensor
37.0 Immobiliser (transponder)
37.1 Immobiliser (antenna)
37.2 Immoiliser (instrument panel serial driver)
37.3 Immobiliser (serial cable disconnected)
37.4 Immobiliser (ccm serial drive)
37.5 Immobiliser (key not recognised)
37.6 Can Line error

 

I'm not sure how the crash voided the warrantee. I have the xtended and if my recent crack voids it, I'm gonna be pissed...

 

njineermike,

Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. guarantees all new motorcycles, standardized for road use, for a period of twentyfour (24) months, without mileage limit.
Motorcycles used for any type of competition and/or for renting are not covered by the warranty. Components subject to wear, such as tires, clutch discs, brake pads, distribution belts and cables are also not covered by the warranty.

Warranty coverage begins from registration.

In order to ensure warranty validity, Customer should also make the three obligatory maintenance checks at 1000Km (or six months), 10000Km (or 12 months) and 20000Km (or 24 months), at any official Dealer.

Warranty will be not honoured for motorcycles repaired by unofficial Dealer networks, for improper use, for bikes with non-genuine parts, for damages incurred from accidents, overloads, negligent use, or improper maintenance.

Further details are detailed in the Warranty/pre-delivery booklet, attached to every new motorcycle.

http://www.ducati.com/bikes/warranty.jhtml;jsessionid=SURALYMZG555MCRNCB2SFFAKFUIHUIV4

 

So, the does the accident void ALL parts on the warrantee or just the doinked rotors and lights???

 

I'd talk to your dealership if I were you (I'm not an expert here)... however, the argument will likely be something like this... prove that the damange you are trying to have done under warrenty didn't happen during the accident.

Experience tells me when I'm about to wrestle with a greased pig (you can't win, and the pig likes the fight)... but give it a shot - maybe you'll do better than I did with that battle.



Now, for something completely different:


I'm heading home shortly, and will try everything that's been suggested. I'll also look into posting a video on youtube for the future reference of equally frustrated immobilizer sufferers.

 

NAKED, regardless of the cause, you were right on with your advice...

Hey! Wasn't that me? [laugh] I'm slightly alarmed that you thought of the word naked when think of something I wrote...

 

I think he was thinking it was me cause I told him it was likely an immobilizer problem

 

My appreciation is equally distributed... :

Fireworks,

Thanks for that... VERY helpful indeed!

Now I know where to zero in on resolving this issue (and now that I have the manual, life should get easier from here).

Cheers mate!

Epi

I had two threads evolve on this one... one for what the heck is this, and one for how do I fix this... thanked fireworks in the other thread.



Either way - by the time I resolve this one - no doubt my thanks will be extending to half the forum!!

 

Only 1 key up at the ignition.2 or more keys will confuse the imobliser. We had this problem once after leaving all 3 keys togeather and trying to start when picking up the bike at the dealer for dash repair Be sure to have only 1 key. Also my hope is that your dash didnt flip out like my friends did before i bought it.

Tim

 

Yeah - I thought of that too... although the manual states that the range is 8", I went so far as to put the other two keys to the other end of the house.

my hope is that your dash didnt flip out like my friends did before i bought it.

That's my concern.


Either way - I'm reading up on the solenoid now - hopefully doing the jump test will help in diagnosing this a little further.

Epi.

 

Hey Episteme,

The below shows where the starter solenoid is (what the red arrow is pointing to)

take the plastic cover off and you'll see to nuts underneath with wires attached to each one. Use a metal object (while holding a non metal part of said tool) to connect the two nuts. I use a pair of pliers with rubber handles.

If the bike is turned on with the key and you then connect those two nuts (aka jumping it) it should turn the starter over and maybe even start.

See if that works and don't hold on to the metal when you connect the two nuts.

Good luck

 

2001cromo,

Thanks for that... I was trying to figure out how to get that stubborn plastic pice off... but loosened it up enough to get a pair of RUBBER COATED needle nose down there and BOOYA!

Turned the starter over nicely... didn't start, but definitely turned over!

Sooooo.... I'm assuming that means that the problem is a fried ECU? Ok... that could be a costly proposition - but at least with all keys in hand it should be too bad.

I gotta say... hearing her turn over gave me some hope. Thanks EVERYONE!!!! and stay with me here... the patient ain't off the table yet...
[thumbsup]

 

In your owners manual there is a procedure to disable imobilizer engine block through the throttle twistgrip. This works, I've done this.

 

Hi FastM,

Yeah, I tried that... but no responce. Even tried to re-initialize with the red key, but still nada. Unfortunately, that still didn't tell me whether it was the ecu or the immobilizer (grey ring inside the plastic housing for the ignition).

Epi