Hi guys just a little update.

I've figured out I'm going to get the flywheel lightend, 14T frount sprocket, Hi-Comp pistons, a big bore kit, rear fender eliminator, handle bar riser, ECU tune and dyno. They have given me a rough idea of about a 30-35HP increase and it's going to cost me about $5.5k (AUD).

Like I've said before any information from you guys out there would be muchly appreciated.

Cheers

 

While I'm sure you will be happy with the end result I think you will be let down by the number on the dyno sheet.

I would expect something along the lines of a 12-15hp boost at best. NCR's 2V 1160cc stroker motor is only putting out 132hp. That's with a forged stroker crank, Ti rods, cams, valves, headwork, dripping with carbon & magnesium, to the tune of ~$21K USD.

I know I wouldn't want to have one between my legs with a stock crank/rods for a 130+hp dyno pull.

 

Man, that's a lot of money. I think you'd have been better off getting a supersport and not having to do any mods.

All I have are a competition werkes exhaust and a K&N air filter.

Congrats on the purchase though.

 

What did you do about already lean mapping on the bike? Do you adjust the fuel mapping to compensate from the new exhaust and filter?

 

Agree with 1UB. Buy a supersport for more reliability compared to a modified motor.

I suggest you ask your "Ducati Specialist" just how much improvement you will realize by replacing the flywheel with a lightened one, considering that the 1100evo already has a lightened flywheel?

I could certainly be wrong, but a 30% power increase is very optimistic. I also wonder what the Hp and Torque curves would look like?

 

supersports are heavy and gross

 

That's a lot of cash for a recently acquired bike and I'm presuming your first Monster. Ride it for 4,000km and then see what takes your fancy for spending. Just my opinion...

The 14T sprocket is good for around town but performance wise...not sure that's a gain and obviously reduces your top speed. Hi Comp pistons are good based on my own experience.

I would go for a custom ECU and Dyno tune for the $770. Will probably add a few HP and will give you a good baseline for the other mods.

That being said, if you've got the cash then go at 'er and share the stats with us!

Congrats on your purchase!

 

An 1100 Evo should "smoke" a Harley without having to spend any money! Ha Ha!

Seriously you've got 100HP, (prob' less if you've fitted Termi's without a DP ECU). How much more do you want?

 

You say it should smoke a Harley, but some Harleys are pushing like1800cc's. Depends on the bike. I dont think smoking a Harley in the straights should be a benchmark but to each their own. I do agree that a superbike or new gen monster might be better.

 

Personally, I would do that ECU flash, throw a pipe on it, and spend the rest of the money on a set of forged Marchesini wheels (for some REAL weight savings that you will immediately notice).

 

Well like the vrod has 123hp and 84tq. The 1700cc vmax has 174hp and 113tq. These, like the Diavel, are not the common bike on the road and are more straight line performers than even the Diavel, let alone the Monster. A honda goldwing 1800cc motor has 118hp and 123tq and a harley sportster 1200cc has 70hp and 79tq.

So there are some numbers. Im sure the Monster has better power to weight than most bikes but it may not DESTROY a Harley. Probably need a superbike.

 

So I own a Diavel and my wife rides the 1100evo. She has no problem keeping up with me. I can out accelerate her but in the corners were fairly equal. I think the Diavel is much more civil despite the extra 62 HP. I always feel like the 1100evo is crazy and raw. The front end lifts up so easy and digs into corners. I wouldn't touch a thing on it. I also love my Diavel and haven't found another bike I'd trade it for, it sure is nice to ride the evo from time to time.

 

did you remap the ECU?? when you installed the k&N filter and the CW exhaust? i just got my Monster 1100 evo 2013 is the 14 T for less aggressive?

 

I ran with my CW slipon for 6 months without a remap/flash of the ECU. Bent a valve and while they had it I had them remap it. Took all the pops out, has ran great ever since (over a year ago).

 

Hey dude! I think its worth attacking this from a different angle as well as tuning and bolt-on's. Try lightening the bike as much as you can. One thing the monster has on it over a Hardley Worthitson is power to weight. The difference in performance will be small but every bit helps. I'm not saying you need to buy the titanium frame or magnesium swing arm (and believe these exist). Start with pulling off the passenger foot pegs and go from there. If the battery dies, spring for a lighter one. Every little bit helps.

 

To Jimmy.
To be honest I do not recommend that you have a lighter flywheel installed for street use. The stock flywheel having more mass results in more rotation inertia which is to the benefit of offline acceleration. The main reason for installing a lighter flywheel is to smooth out acceleration when coming out of a corner - this results in less chance of loosing traction at the rear wheel.
This will not produce any more engine power.
As for higher compression pistons - again not for street use as this will produce more engine heat and since these engines are air cooled this will have a negative effect in traffic situations.
You can go ahead and do the mapping and front sprocket as these are simple to change if you discover that this is not what you want.
And you can be sure as others have mentioned - you will not get 30 more hp. from the above mentioned mods.

 

I absolutely agree with not adding a lighter flywheel to this bike for the street. However....


"The stock flywheel having more mass results in more rotation inertia which is to the benefit of offline acceleration. The main reason for installing a lighter flywheel is to smooth out acceleration when coming out of a corner - this results in less chance of loosing traction at the rear wheel."

LOL... maybe some motorcycle dynamics reading for you..... SMH ... where do you get this garbage? Did you make it up over a few White Claws?

 

If you want to make it lighter....... Carbon fiber rims! Just my 2 cents. :devil

Post a picture of your bike, did you remap it? Got an update for us?

 

I'm not sure about the prices over there, but is the amount of money you're spending on mods enough to trade in your bike for a slightly used 1200S? That's 130 horsepower to start with and it was made to handle that kind of power. It should probably also have better resale for when you decide you actually wanted a street fighter.

But it also depends on whether you are trying to out accelerate the harley, beat it around corners or pull away from it when it's at 130MPH.

If you really really want to smoke him, buy a kawasaki ZX14. Make sure your will is up to date before you race.

 

If you really really want to smoke him, buy a kawasaki ZX14.

But it's so.... ugly....:frown

 

If I was looking to add 30-40hp for about $5K, I'd go to a dealership and trade my bike in for a Monster 1200s.

 

change the wheel set to carbon bst it won't be cheap but it will be one of the best mods you can do on an evo

 

My Top Five Mods (I didn't stop here)

1. BST Wheels
2. Full exhaust
3. Pod Filters w Velocity Stacks
4. Lightweight rear sprocket setup
5. Ti Bolts for all unsprung parts

 

My Top Five Mods (I didn't stop here)
.....
3. Pod Filters w Velocity Stacks
.....

Since we are speaking of a 1100 evo, how would you do pod filters and stacks on it? Very interested to see pics/forum thread/specific aftermarket link?

Maybe you are thinking MWR, although their 1100 evo fitment is not a pod filter nor a stack?

 

2 cents:

-Pods and velocity stacks are a waste of money imo because it destroys all your low end and a big chunk of midrange
-lightened flywheel is not worth doing in the big displacement monsters if you are gonna be riding this bike stop and go, it will get frustrating especially if you also did an air box delete.
- 14 tooth front sprocket is cheap, but not great if doing highway riding. I recommend leaving the front stock (15) and getting a quick change rear carrier and an assortment of sprockets. I love a 43 tooth for around town, but change to a 39 or 40 if im going on a highway trip to keep the revs down, conserve fuel and keep high rpm drone down
-wheels are absolutely the best bang for the buck. Bike will accellerate faster, turn in faster and also look better to boot...haha i have OZ Piega for my last few bikes, BST is nice if you can afford it, Carrozzeira is also a nice option.
- suspension setup is always overlooked too. Spend some time dialing in the bike and some track days too if you have that option
-exhaust to me is now.just noise and looks. The factory tunes these bikes very well and there really isnt much improvement for a full system for daily riding as most are designed for WOT racing situations. Then there is the tuning side as well. The DP ecu with termi exhaust is ok, but to get the best result you should get something like a PC5 and an Auto Tuner (dual O2) to really get it dialed in.

Chasing hp on these 2v bikes is a cost prohibitive endevour. If you want a lot more power, just buy a different bike. The more you mod, the more you compromise efficiency. That can end up costing more in the long run when you burn valves due to a shitty tune or grenading a bottom end because all the "bolt on" internal mods are not perfectly balanced to work with each other.
I have spend A LOT of $ over the past 5 years and now have a very different perspective on this type of thing. Take a realistic look at what kind of riding you are doing and if this is really the right bike. A 100 hp bike IS enough if you learn to ride it. Comparing to Harleys is not a real comparisson as that bike is made for a completely different purpose.

Just a little food for thought.

 

A few more cents

I totally agree that wheels are the best move from my BST experience. By far the best mod I've done.

Full arrow drops like 15lbs, and I'm more into weight savings that increased hp - power to weight - rotating, unsprung, then the rest.

Cheaper than pc5 and AT, and arguably better is Rexxer or TuneBoy. I'd rather not have the extra stuff.

Pods drop weight, flywheel is something you get used to and drops rotating mass.

Totally agree on suspension and improved riding skills. Rossi could out ride any of us on a moped probably.

You didn't mention brakes - evo already has a nice setup, but there are ways to improve more. Lightweight iron rotors for example - or hell, CMC if you can get them would be hugely noticeable I'm sure.

I spent too much on Ti - except for rotating parts I wouldn't do it again.

I dream about things CMC rotors, magnesium swing arms and aluminum tanks more than engine mods for sure.

Lastly - there's a great post by a Swedish company that shows the biggest bang for the buck on an 1100s is port & polish with full exhaust and open airbox.

 

remember he said his mate's Harley was fully worked. That's a lot of CC's to work against.
But the Hog would never keep up around a left hand turn...
That's a lot of money for 30hp, start with the sprocket.

 

No need to spend a penny. Harleys are rolling lead with shite for brakes. Simply take roads with curves and or braking zones... you will DESTROY them if you know how to ride at all.... if not, a few bucks at a riding school will a far better investment that you can transfer to any/every bike you ride.
Mod your Monster to your tastes... don't worry about crushing a Harley, that will just come naturally.