Cool motorcycle! I really like it!

 

My rear ohlin shock was in bad shape and I found an Ohlin specialist I would highly recommend to anyone else in need of professional service. I actually found him watching YouTube. He has a channel called “The Ohlin Guy” The Ohlins Guy and his business page is at • - BRENNER SHOCKS. Pretty cool getting to chat with him and read his history as an old race guy. This was the one job I wasn’t willing to tackle or have all the equipment at my disposal anyways. It literally took him a day to turn it around and ship it back to me. Even the motorcycle mechanics here in Hawaii said I should ship it to a reliable service because it would take them forever to get all the parts from ohlins in Sweden. I can’t wait to slap this thing back on the bike so I can get it off the lift.

 

Waiting on parts and at a work stoppage. Surprisingly it only took two days for my tires to be shipped from J&P cycle, but all the other stuff I need before I start another task is holding me up.

 

I got my serviced rear shock back yesterday. It was a quick install and I set it back to factory rebound and compression settings. I did add about a half an inch to the ride height since I am over 6 ft tall. I also replaced the shaft because the exhaust clamp had rubbed on it. Got my valves adjusted only two were off. It is my opinion someone put them in backwards because I just swapped the two and everything lined up. Lesson learned; the keepers have to be in perfect or the valve sticks up enough to where you can’t turn the camshaft. Only took my a few hours of beating my head and a night to sleep on it before I tore something up.

 

Wrapped the seat; IMO it turned out pretty good.

 

Wrapped the seat; IMO it turned out pretty good.
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That is a really cool idea - turned out great!

 

Big improvement.

 

I wasn’t sure how the blue hoses would look, but I think they don’t look too bad. Also got rid of the charcoal emission canister and tucked the horn up behind the radiator. Wrapped the lower exhaust pipe with some DEI titanium wrap. The water pump cover was replaced with a billet speedy moto cover. The left side fan was deleted or lost prior, but I’m keeping it like that.

 

A few parts arrived today and I finally have the engine pretty much buttoned back up only lacking the oil change. Timing belts weren’t as hard as I expected. I did watch a few pretty good videos on YouTube and also read my maintenance manual many times. I did download an app some of you will criticize me for but others may be interested. It is called “sonic tools” in the apple store for free and it read the hz just fine for tightening the timing belt. I watched a video of a guy comparing multiple hz platforms and machines and he demonstrated it was pretty close to accurate using your phone.

 

Almost time to start this bad boy up. Still waiting on the clips for the airbox and two gaskets for the tank drains. I think all my parts are stuck in a state shutdown from COVID.

 

Two of the four oil mesh cover screws were stripped, which I read on the forum is pretty common on the S4RS. I tried heat, vise grips, and slotting the screw for a flat head with no luck. The vise grips weren’t thin enough so I bought a cheap pair of thin locking grove joint pliers and that did the trick. I wanted to cover all my bases before I attempted using an extractor or drilling them out. I will be replacing the stock Allen bolts for the cover with some flanged socket bolts.

 

Got everything pretty much back together and started it up. Still need to change tires, front fork oil, and rear brakes and fluid. After that I’ll be riding this bad boy again.

 

Nice work so far. Don't forget to upload the sound clip.

 

Awesome! Keep the posting going!


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The more things you check the more you gotta fix I guess.

 

Is there something I am missing trying to get this rear wheel nut off. I used heat, penetrant, a wrench to leverage on the socket wrench, a 250 ft pound air compressor impact, and a 450 ft pound electric impact. This nut will not budge. I even loosened the sprocket nut just in case that released some pressure.

 

Should come loose this way.
Normally tightened with 180Nm

 

I would try soaking with pb blaster/kroil.


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I would try soaking with pb blaster/kroil.

I have been spraying it with PB blaster every day since the last attempt. My socket was beat up so I ordered another one.

 

Yes, the deeper you go down the rabbit hole, the more you find.

Wow, was that clutch a bit noisy in neutral? Your measuring the thickness, check out the gaps between plates and basket, usually checked with a feeler gauge. The basket is shot, as are the friction plates. I can't remember seeing one that worn, if you haven't started it yet, it's going to be very rattly. One of the down sides of open clutch covers is the corrosion.

The rear wheel nut is a bitch, corrosion, where it sticks to the wheel around the circular outer edge. I have used a 4 foot breaker bar on the socket tool at times when impact tool does nothing. Avoid using large punch and hammer against the castellations, they break and can damage the spindle thread.

 

@ronski i checked all the tolerance of the clutch plates and basket, but just ended up getting new plates from ducaride. There is not much noise from the clutch now, but it is having an issue shifting to neutral while running now. Bleed lines again to see if there was any air in them. Other than that it shifts way better.

 

Ok, but I'd take another look at your clutch basket. Your picture clearly shows curved 'v' groove on the end plate section.
Obviously I can't see all the basket where the badly worn plates were hitting, only the end plate.
Bleed away, but these wear grooves are in a 'V' shape, when running, the spinning centrifugal force holds the plates inside the 'V' groove and they don't separate freely. This is the main cause of hard to find neutral in a Ducati dry clutch.
The channels should be straight and smooth. so the plates slide apart freely.
Here is a picture of a really badly worn basket, obviously extreme, followed by your picture where it's showing same wear. (red pointers).
your choice really.

Other than that, it's a joy to follow your progress, I love it when some one brings back a Monster after being neglected.

 

@ronski thanks for the tips and advice. I did check the grooves prior to installation and didn’t see anything as extreme as the picture your showing me. To me everything looked fine with the grooves on the basket. I was able to get the clutch working now as it should. Either it needed a little break in or the fact that I adjusted my clutch lever another click.

 

Well I accepted defeat and took the bike to the shop to get them to remove the rear wheel and change the tire for me. It cost me the same as all the tools I had to buy. These sockets are made of steel, but the 450 ib impact gun and it didn’t do anything but tear up the socket. I bought another one and gave it another go a little impact and a strong friend to help with the breaker bar and extension, but still did not budge.

 

Well rear tire is mounted and looking pretty slick. Added a little flare with the anodized nuts. Ordered some marchesini racing stickers to replace the old rubbed off ones on the rims.

 

Anyone have any experience with Ducati performance headlight fairings? They don’t include instructions and I am pretty sure they just throw random hardware to make you feel like it could be used. I will probably end up fabricating my own mounts. I have tried many different configurations with the supplied hardware and don’t see how the puzzle pieces connect.