It should take about 4 hours to install the new engine, or about 6-8 hours to do a full engine swap and be back on the road. It involves very few hand tools and is not that difficult. If the bike is not fully stripped, it may be easier with the help of 2 extra friends, or some pulleys and rope attached to the ceiling. The swingarm can be left on the engine and transferred outside of the bike, that's how I would do it. The front end and frame lift off of the engine and the motor will be left sitting on a 2x4 or your milk crate, or whatever you put under it to steady it.

When I stripped the 600 for paint, I had it completely pulled apart in 3 hours. I mean completely, including wheel bearings...... Everything was readied for being painted in just a couple of hours. Going back took a couple of evenings just because we took our time to double check a lot of stuff. Take pictures with your cell phone as you go along, that way it will be easier to put it back together. It's easier to grab a quick screen shot from your phone in your pocket than drag up the laptop and search around, also risking breaking the laptop in the garage.


Can you show some pictures of the changes you mention? It would be a lot easier to help that way.

 

Here is the parts fiche for the 2000 750, I'm betting it is very similar to the 99 http://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/m750_usa-00?viewMode=magazine&mode=embed

 

The 97 does have a different clutch slave than the rest of the 750's
if it doesnt have the slave you will need one, and maybe a shorter line as it doesnt have to cross over to the left
other than that you should be fine

jeff h
monsterparts.com
97 M750
01 M900Sie

 

Wow learned something today, thanks Jeff. Had to do a bit of google surfing but finally came up with pics of the 750 Monster and SS with the right hand case clutch slave. So it appears that is the only model they did that with? The 900 for that year came with the more traditional clutch slave.

 

The M600 of the same year had the same motor (sleeved down)
the 97 M750 was the only one in the US
you can ID that motor by the different shaped belt covers as well.

that motor came from the Ducati Pantah

 

Thanks for all the advice.

We got the engine home today and got the removal of the old one started. Currently the rear end is hanging from a pair bunk bed frames. Everything is stripped down to the carbs and mounts and we are ready to pull the bolts from the mounts and shock and let the old one down with a small car jack. (better control)

the clutch cylinder has been ordered and is on its way.

Now... I find the new engine has a 3 phase stator and the old one has a single phase. So we obviously need a new voltage regulator. Some sites (yes, I have been searching) claim I will need a new wire harness. I am not so sure, the three wires all terminate at the regulator and it only 4 wires (2 green and 2 red) out. it don't seem all that hard, even if the connectors are different he shouldn't need an entire wore harness.

Hmmm, time to hit the schematics. I'll keep the posts up.

 

PROGRESS REPORT: I spent about 1 1/2 hours working on it alone (buddy too hungover) with the bike hanging from a frame and got the engine\swingarm out. It is sitting next to the new engine as he decides what to do about paint and other cosmetic things. Now it is just a matter of time. Another difference that I noticed is the '97 uses 2 short bolts threaded into the engine from each side on the front mounts. The '99 uses a single, long bolt that does not use threads cut into the engine. HMMmm, time for some all-thread.

We are also going to remove the slobber-box and blow-by re-breather and probably the charcoal canister as well while it is apart.

 

New progress report: Swing arm on engine, engine in frame (not the front through bolt though), rear tire on, kickstand on, standing on her own, clutch hydraulic hose re-routed, new (small diameter) slave cyl. on, bled and working, carbs on and, since Sophia was complaining about being naked for so long we set her tank and seat in place for the night. She should be running as soon as we get the new through bolt for the front and the sliders that come with it. Oh yeah, and figure out how to wire the new three wire voltage regulator into it, the plugs are totally different, time to hit the schematics.

 

Wow awesome work. Hope you're taking pics!

 

What is the output voltage and current of both the stators?

Sent from my Zombie796

 

Woo Hoo! Engine in, most hooked up, header on, STARTED, REVVED, (new years eve) lots of noise and flames shooting out! Lots of fun. Then we put the mufflers on and found that the header is a bit misaligned. We have not checked the regulator.

 

Output voltage 13.7v @ 3000 RPM.

Had a few issues with it staying running. it would not go, every time he opened the throttle it would stumble. I figured this was because the vacuum actuated fuel valve which leaks considerably did not had the vacuum line installed. I just thought it was stuck open. No it just leaks. Hooked up the vacuum line so the fuel shouldn't be a problem.

Then it started running bad in a different way, one cylinder then sputter and backfire then OK then die then run then something else... then bad I noticed the tachometer jumping around. Oops, heh heh heh... did not have the coil connections tight, lets just push these things in... Now the little things, Font brake light switch has stopped working, Low fuel light got stuck on on this afternoon, need to recheck the wires.

Oh well, at least it is mobile again.

 

OK, now we are getting into some really small detail stuff.

I found that the charge light used to hook up directly to the regulator through a 2 wire connector. One runs power through a 7.5 amp fuse, grounding it blows the fuse. The other runs power through the warning light, grounding it lights the bulb.

However, the new regulator has 7 wires, 3 in from the stator 2 green negative out, according to the schematic these join together, (so I guess they are supposed to be redundant) and 2 red positive, also according to the schematic, joining together (again redundancy?)

The wiring harness itself is different so I will have to improvise a bit.

The question is how do I wire in the charge light so that it works? clearly, I ground the white/red wire. Could I use a "shunt and relay" type system? Does anyone have (or have a link to) CLEAR schematics so I can see how this system is wired?

Or can anyone tell me is there a switch that he can buy that can be set to close at a predetermined voltage?