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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
why ducati? why do you do it? is it just to frustrate me? are you trying to keep your parts departments in business by having **** break everytime i touch it? i just don't get it. why would you put a thin cast bolt, on the engine ... to secure the belts no less? :(



i was tensioning the belts, went to loosen the tensioner bolt, but it didn't turn ... just cracked in half and fell off. sweet. now how the hell an i supposed to get this out? :-\
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
desmodevil said:
liquid wrench. spray it on and let it sit for a while. slowly use a punch or screw driver to turn it out. happened to me on my clutch plate and worked like a charm
thanks, i'll look for some of that at the autostore tomorrow.
 

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CapnCrunch said:
if that does not work drill a small hole into the bolt and get some "easy out" bits at the hardware store. never fail.
I beg to differ with you.

I used an easy-out on one of the bolts going into my clutch slave cylinder. It broke. In the bolt. Probably user-error... but still... I was left with a bolt stuck in the crankcase with a bit of hardened steel in the middle of it.

The local shop worked me into their schedule. They use something a little more expensive. The shop guy was stoked about it... I saw it at Ace Hardware. I just remember the barbs.

They charged me for 10 minutes of labor and said they "chiseled it out."

Good luck. Happy hunting. Think twice before using the easy-out.
 

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Overtorqued to begin with?? I'm not saying that you did but overtightened nuts/bolts are one of the most common things I find.
 

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Crappy bolts make bikes cheaper... It's just the truth
 

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The easy-out stud extracter works ok if the head is off the bolt. With the head still on, the thread is still in tension so will need more torque to turn it so can break easy-out. If the socket recess had just rounded you can drill the head off but in this case you may be able to grind it off with Dremel. This bolt should remove with easy-out ok if head is off although it may be loctited with nut-lock grade so will need a bit more torque than without loctite.
 

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I have had the best results by drilling off the head of the bolt. Without tension on the threads you can almost turn it out by hand. Just grab the stub with a vise-grip and turn.
 

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The easy-out should be your last resort. Drill the head off and try to remove as opwierde said. If that doesn't work and you need to drill for an easy out use a left handed drill bit. If you are lucky that will get it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mac900 said:
Overtorqued to begin with?? I'm not saying that you did but overtightened nuts/bolts are one of the most common things I find.
feels like they were all overtorqued. the others litterally felt like the were breaking loose. unfortunately the shop was the last place to adjust the belts ... i'm pretty paranoid about over torquing stuff.

i tried liquid wrench and a screwdriver, but i think its in there way to tight ... so i'll be waiting for some bolt extractors to show up. :/
 

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If it were mine I'd very carefully use a cold chisel to remove what was left of the head and then the bolt should come out easily - supposing its not loctited in of course, if it is then you need to drill it and use a screw extractor.

Mark.
 

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desmodevil said:
liquid wrench. spray it on and let it sit for a while. slowly use a punch or screw driver to turn it out. happened to me on my clutch plate and worked like a charm
I'd try turning it with a punch or cold chisel, and hammer, before I drilled the rest of the head off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
mandrbarrett said:
If it were mine I'd very carefully use a cold chisel to remove what was left of the head and then the bolt should come out easily - supposing its not loctited in of course, if it is then you need to drill it and use a screw extractor.

Mark.
good advice. the head is actually whats keeping it from coming out right now. i can turn it a little the way it is, but the broken part of the bolt head is getting caught on the tensioner arm. so this'll have to wait until i get some better tools to remove the head. i'm not lending my dremel out to anyone again.
 

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I should mention that bolts are not cast. They can be machined from a solid or forged and then threaded (what you have)

Kevin
 

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I wouldn't be too quick to pull the head. If the bolt is loose and hanging on the broken edge, then a couple of judicious raps with a medium hammer and a flattened chisel or punch should get it turning. If a straight chisel or punch won't fit good, try bending a slight angle in a piece of heavy (3/8 or 1/2") keystock for a custom punch.
Wayne Z.
 

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Or, if you can turn the bolt in enough to clear the edge of the adjuster slot, take your dremel and smooth a slight bevel at the edge of the slot where the bolthead is catching. Hope this helps.
WZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well got it out. i had to chisel away most of the bolt's head, then remove the entire tensioner assembly over the hacked away bolt. then i could turn it out by hand. thanks for the good advice.
 
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