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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done a search and didn't get a positive answer. So here goes.

I've removed the emissions on my bike. I've purchased a K&N filter to connect to the pcv. My problem is where to locate it? Do most bikes have an issue with oil blowing by the pcv? If so, I'll place the filter on the hose end that was connected to the pcv and locate the filter somewhere under the seat. If not I'd like to eliminate the hose and place the filter directly onto the pcv.
 

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I don't think there is a positive answer. Some have placed the filter on the breather and had no issues. Others have had issues.
 

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You could try this method.....

http://www.ducatisuite.com/emissions.html

OR

This is how I have the filter on my 99 M750... I just used the hose that was already there and attached the filter with an L-bracket where the emission can was(wow, those are old pics [laugh])......





 

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Sorry to ask in your Topic....
But what is the improvement of this mod to the bike?
What does it do to the the bike???
Thanks...
 

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I disagree. No oil anywhere for me. - However, if you experience the oil situation, reinstalling the tubing with the filter on the end is supposed to remedy this problem allowing the oil particulates much more room to condense and run back down the length of tubing rather than misting out of the filter. Then again, a properly oiled filter (read: not too heavy on the oil!) should also work to prevent this, but its not failsafe.

DesmoTimes manual instructs that the 1999 and earlier Monsters (2V's really) have problems with the stock crankcase breather.

"While I have never seen oil blow-by on the breather under any track or street condition, I have heard of it happening. If you are paranoid about blow-by use the stock return hose instead of the oil breather filter.

The breather assembly is notorious for weeping oil at the base. Suitable aftermarket replacements alleviate this design flaw (the oil breather assembly was fitted with an o-ring in 2000 to prevent leaks)....The best solution
[for leaking crankcase breather systems] is to replace the stock unit. I also prefer to remove the crankcase breather hose and reservoir and replace it with an air filter (available from K&N or Evoluzione). These filters come with plugs to seal the hole in the airbox for the vent tube. Switching to an aftermarket filter is purely an aesthetic choice however, because removing the breather box and hose doesn't save much weight."
Venting the end with a K&N filter is implemented with the goal of letting air out of the crankcase (but not oil, hence a filter) and removing the hosing that originally went to the airbox. This keeps "clean" air only going into airbox, rather than air from in the motor that is certainly not cool, nor free from oil from going into the combustion cycle.

By removing tubing, you clean up the look of the motor, marginally lighten the bike, and give it a much neater look. Getting rid of those hoses does make a difference in the looks category, and the filter looks cool, my opinion of course.

This mod often occurs with the removal of the fuel charcoal tank which was originally installed for fuel vapor emissions (as it was explained to me). That black cylinder looks fugly to me and it is also missing from my bike.
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References:
Snyder, LT. Ducati Desmodue/Desmotre Maintenance & Modification Guide. 2nd Edition. Snyder Publications 2005.

Available from DesmoTimes.com or MotoWheels.com
 

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Speedomax said:
It doesn't do much except blow oil all over the place! Put the origional plumbing back on and bike seems to run better.
Haven't seen a drop yet. The filter must be catching it. Go figure. :-\
 

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Only slightly off topic, I read somewhere that changing the breather could increas horsepower. Is this due to eliminating the puff of hot air going into the airbox? By relieving internal pressure in the motor better? Any truth to this at all?
 

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No horsepower gains on my engine after this mod.
 

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The horsepower gain/loss comes from providing "negative" pressure in the crankcase. Routing the hoses to the airbox creates a draw/"suction" (lower pressure) which pulls some air from the crankcase.

So for max hp, it has been noted to keep running the hoses to the airbox. Then again, that's dirty air.

All in all, I don't think it matters one way or another, the gain/loss has been shown to be negligible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the response everybody.

The reason I made this mod is that the hose going into the intake box was cracked. So instead of buying a new hose I got rid of it and that ugly black cylinder.

Sooner or later I'll make a decision on where to locate the filter. :)

But one thing I do understand is to use very little oil on the filter that's provided by K&N.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One last question.

I've seen on a in-line 4 bike that when it reached running temperature a steam/vapor is visable coming out of the crankcase filter. Is this common or just an issue with that bike?
 

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All 4 stroke motor will blow oil out of the breather, that's what it's there for (I don't know sh*t about 2 strokes). The harder you run the motor, the more oil will blow out. The piece that screws into the motor is a filtered valve. It lets oil blow thru it & then slowly drain back into the motor. You need the oil/air filter on as long of a hose as you can make. This makes the oil blow uphill & drain back without blowing thru the air filter. I put mine on at least a 12" tube. None of this will increase or decrease your HP. The increased HP info is from the drag racers who hook up a vacuum to the breather & litterally suck on the crankcase. I believe they have rules now as to how much suction they can use. This isn't something you want to do on your street bike although venting to the airbox does provide a small amount of vaccum, but not enough to make any real HP difference.
 

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OK, I just discovered this thread, and also that the hose that runs from the breather valve to the reservoir is cracked, hence the oil that drips onto my pipe and makes a stinky mess.

So... while I wait for a replacement hose, I've duct-taped the old one. Is this just going to add to the mess or do you think the tape will hold for a while? (i.e. how much pressure are we talking about here?)
 

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Michael Moore said:
OK, I just discovered this thread, and also that the hose that runs from the breather valve to the reservoir is cracked, hence the oil that drips onto my pipe and makes a stinky mess.

So... while I wait for a replacement hose, I've duct-taped the old one. Is this just going to add to the mess or do you think the tape will hold for a while? (i.e. how much pressure are we talking about here?)
The adhesive will soften from the oil mist, but there is not enough pressure to "blow" the tape off.
 

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HI All,
This is a great thread,
Could someone confirm that the hose is indeed 3/4" for oil breather hose?

I just bought a 900ss with the filter directly to the breather. Tho other longtime duc owners maintain you need to have a length of hose going uphill so the oil can collect and drain back in as someone mentioned in this thread.

Chris
 

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Well, I have empirical evidence that duct tape doesn't do the job. Leaked like a mofo. Ace hardware here I come.

BTW, I'm assumng that, given the temperatures/proximity to the exhaust, it'll need to be some hi-temp rubber, right?
 

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Michael Moore said:
Well, I have empirical evidence that duct tape doesn't do the job. Leaked like a mofo. Ace hardware here I come.

BTW, I'm assumng that, given the temperatures/proximity to the exhaust, it'll need to be some hi-temp rubber, right?
I've got the same cracked hose and was going to try that self-vulcanizing rubber tape, but, for what its worth, I don't get any oil leaking either. Could your breather valve be not functioning right?.
 
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