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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know of a place I can purchase 10w40 Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 on the internet? I have not found anyplace on my searches, and the Ducati dealer I bought the bike from does not sell it. I live in the North East, Maryland area, and work in Aberdeen, Maryland area, so if someone knows of a place around this area that caries it that would be great also.

Thank You,

Brian F.
 

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Re: Were Can I buy Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 on the Internet?

Shell does not sell their Advance Ultra motorcycle lubricants in the US. I cannot find it on Shell's Canada site either.

IMHO, it's just not worth the hassle nor expense to get this oil shipped from Europe. I remember when Ducati was aligned with Agip and they said "use only Agip lubricants and fluids".

There is nothing magical or proprietary about this oil that would make it more suitable for a Duc compared to any other high quality motorcycle oil like Motorex, Motul or Silkolene or Mobil MXT or......

Unless perhaps you were Loris Capirossi trying to scratch out another win on the Desmosedici GP0x. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Were Can I buy Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 on the Internet?

BIG THANK YOU!! No wonder I was having such a hard time trying to find it!!!! It never occured to me that it was a European item only.

As that being the case, I will use one of my favorite oils like Mobile MXT or Redline. Although my freinds tell me to use Shell Rotella T 5 w 40 Synthetic from Walmart, and be done with it!!!! Its available everywere, and its $4.50 a quart at Walley World. Its designed for turbo diesels, so it should have no problem with the heat of an air cooled Ducati.

Hey, changing this thread some. Anybody have any thoughts about using Shell Rotella T 5 w 40 Synthetic in a Ducati? Mine is a 695 with a wet clutch.

Thank You,

Brian F.

Lifes Short,

Ride Fast
 

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Re: Were Can I buy Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 on the Internet?

Just make sure that it's compatible with a wet clutch. Not all synthetics are and you don't want to ruin your clutch.
 

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Re: Were Can I buy Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 on the Internet?

M695 Army Man said:
Hey, changing this thread some. Anybody have any thoughst about using Shell Rotella T 5 w 40 Synthetic in a Ducati? Mine is a 695 with a wet clutch.
I've used Shell Rotella T 15W40 and/or Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 in my SV650 for nearly 30K miles.

Compared to motorcycle specific oil, this oil seems to provide harsher, less positive shifting action. Otherwise, it is good stuff. And at less than $20 per GALLON for the Synthetic or $15 for conventional, you can afford to change the oil frequently- which perhaps is more important than splurging $40+ per gallon on high zoot m/c specific synthetics.

http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=169
http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=205

One caveat is the higher ash content of Rotella... it exceeds JASO spec but I have not heard any long term negatives- and this is from folks who put on ~ 100K miles per year on sport tourers like ST2 and Honda ST1100/1300 riders.
 

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Re: Were Can I buy Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 on the Internet?

Mac900 said:
Just make sure that it's compatible with a wet clutch. Not all synthetics are and you don't want to ruin your clutch.
Just avoid oils that have the API Energy Conserving (aka friction modifier) logo on it. The majority of motor oils of 10W40 or greater weight won't have it. And most motorcycles are spec'ed for 10W40

To my knowledge, none of the heavy-duty fleet (aka diesel truck oils) contain friction modifiers.
 

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Re: Were Can I buy Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 on the Internet?

Tam 212 said:
To my knowledge, none of the heavy-duty fleet (aka diesel truck oils) contain friction modifiers.
My mechanic says that you have be beware of some oils designed to be used in big diesel trucks. He said that he used to use them when racing, years ago. He checked the oil after a hard run and found that it had foamed significantly. He says that they are not all formulated to run in higher revving motors. I took that to mean that truck diesel motors ran at rather low RPM compared to our bikes. I am not a truck driver so I can't speak from FHE but I trust his advice and he did not discount them all out of hand but said "some of them" could foam up. I used to use Pennzoil "Long-Life" in my bevel drives since I have a friend whose father used to be a Pennzoil distributor and I could get it in 5 gallon containers cheap...after he told me that though, I quit using it...FWIW.
 

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After reading this link I just had to give this a try: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html

After putting this Shell Rotella T Synth 5-40 oil in my S2R, all I can say is wow!! [thumbsup] Engine is bit smoother and more noticeable was the transmission, less clunking and easier shifting, with less clutch grab!! There isn't any moly in this so it's not suppose to have any clutch slipping.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Desmo7, Roger that and Thank You. Is your S2 an 800 or 1000 ?, i.e. does it have a wet or dry clutch?

I talked to my former boss about this (he has been riding for ages, and is an old Suziki air cooled fan). He stated that a lot of his freinds use Shell Rotella 5 w 40 Synthetic in there bikes, with very good results, and no problems. So, this apears to be the e ticket as far as I am concerned, inexpensive, available everywhere, no problems with a wet clutch, and its a Synthetic i.e, a very good oil for a bike. Some of his freinds ride A Lot (Big Ironbut Fans), and really like and recomend Shell Rotelia Synthetic.

Soooooooooooooo. After I get my M695 engine broken in (I use an organic Dino oil for breakin), I will put shell Rotelia in her.

Thank You,

Brian F.

Lifes Short,

Ride Fast
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your Welcome.

Walmart has it, and I would think any reputable truck stop or parts place that that carries Shell products. From what I understand, its like the universal synthetic truck engine oil. Probably be able to buy it in a 35 gallon barrel!!!!!!!!

Brian F.
 

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My dealer put in Motul for the first oil change. I think Ill just stick with that. Why not stick with what your dealer recommends or uses?
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Squidwood,

Great Link - Basically conformed what I have learned up to this point, that Shell Rotelia Synthetic 5 w 40 is probably the best oil for my Ducati (high quality, reasonably priced, readily available) . Plan to also start putting it in my kids mini dune buggy (150 cc Honda engine clone with CVT, two passenger, full suspension, locked rear axle, 4 point seat belts, full roll cage and lights - a blast ;D)
I will probably start running it in my John Deere tractor also (20 hp 90 degree air cooled Briggs IC V twin (just like a Ducati!!!!!!!!!) (not Really, just joking there, but it is a 90 degree air cooled V twin)

Big Thank You for posting that link.

HyperM3,

Good Question. I like turning my own wrenches, and the nearest Ducati dealer is an hour plus away - through Baltimore. I am not riding my bike through that city just so they can change the oil! The nearest motorcycle dealer is 45 minutes away. I drive by Walmart every day - going to work - so there is a convencve thing here. Also, my wife can pick up some Shell Rotellia when she is out shopping, and save me the trip (My wife is my Purchasing Officer, does a d**n good job, too (shes good, just not cheap))

Anyway, if I can get a high quality oil, thats readily available, and is reasonably priced, I prefer to do that then spend 10 plus dollars a quart for the same thing but packaged for motorcycles, and sold in the motorcycle shop.

Obviously, if I can save close to a 20 dollar bill everytime I change the oil on my Ducati, and get the same protection, I will do that. Read the link in Squidwood's post. Its very good.

Not wanting to get personal here, but I find it interesting that you side gap your spark plugs because you do not want to buy Bosch Platinum's - to save a little bit of money. I would think that you would change your own oil. Its real easy - plus, it gives you time to Bond with your Bike ;).

BTW: What oil do you put in your M3. I have been running Walmart 10 w 30 Synthetic in my 95 540 - with great results. One of the engineers here locked it up, and stated that its a Group III synthetic. He been putting it in his Honda VTEC Civic for years. I have been running it in my 540, of which holds 8 quarts, and I change it and the filter every 5,000 miles.

Take Care,

Brian F.




Brian F.
 

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M695 Army Man said:
HyperM3,

Not wanting to get personal here, but I find it interesting that you side gap your spark plugs because you do not want to buy Bosch Platinum's - to save a little bit of money. I would think that you would change your own oil. Its real easy - plus, it gives you time to Bond with your Bike ;).

BTW: What oil do you put in your M3. I have been running Walmart 10 w 30 Synthetic in my 95 540 - with great results. One of the engineers here locked it up, and stated that its a Group III synthetic. He been putting it in his Honda VTEC Civic for years. I have been running it in my 540, of which holds 8 quarts, and I change it and the filter every 5,000 miles.

Take Care,


Brian F.
I wasnt saying to bring the bike to the dealer for every oil change. I was just saying Im going to use Motul when I change the oil on the bike because thats what the dealer recommends and Im sure I can get it cheaper on the internet. I do change all my own oil except for dealer services.

Secondly, Im not cheap on buying spark plugs. I gap my plugs because it creates better peformance. I do that to all my plugs no matter what vehicle and even on my aftermarket plugs. Why buy new plugs if the stock ones are just fine? I wouldnt use platinums in my cars because they are both forced induction, I run copper plugs in there for the colder range.

On my M3 I run 20-50 either Mobil1 or Castrol Syntec. I go back and forth with whatever is available at Pepboys at the time. I run the higher weights because of the supercharger, anything lower and it thins faster from the heat.
 

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knowpain said:
The oil will not thin from heat.
Youre kidding right? Thats why theres different weights. A lower viscosity oil will lean out quicker and burn off. Ever wonder why you need to top off oil in some high performance engines every 1k miles? Using a thicker weight will negate that process but will be harder to start in colder temps and could rob engine power if too heavy.
 

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It won't thin anymore than a 40w. If your engine is getting hot enough to break the oil down in 1000 miles you have some bigger issues. Most engines have some blow by especially those with higher compression. That is where you lose oil. Most engine damage is done during start up and that is where a 5w will protect a cold engine better than 10 or 20. I had some Silk 20w-50 in a quart and looked at it the other day when the temp was in the teens. It poured like honey, the 5w Rottella on the other hand was like melted butter. It is better to change your weight during the winter. But I have total confidence in a 5w-40 in summer heat.
 

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Re: Were Can I buy Shell Advance Advance Ultra 4 / Anybody use Shell Rotella Syn

There's some really good oil info here.

Kind of long, but an informative read.
 
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