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I'm relatively new to bikes, trying to learn. Did a basic oil (and filter) change on my 2009 696.
I used Mobil 1 v-twin 20w-50 fully synthetic 4 cycle motorcycle oil. Lubed the lip of the new filter, but did not pour any directly into it.
Granted, it's also a lot colder since I've been riding regularly (40s and 50s) but I don't want to write it off as a weather problem.

The bike has done the following every time I have started it since:
Electrically turns on normally, but when I push to start it, it will turn over, catch and then almost immediately die.
If I open up the throttle, that kills it. The choke kills it. I repeatedly try to start it until the check engine light comes on.

AND if I do get it started (in neutral) putting it into first results in a big jolt and it dies as well and then I have to restart it from first. (and yes, I have the clutch in when I put it into first, I'm not a TOTAL idiot - but effectively the bike reacts as if I dont)
 

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I'm relatively new to bikes, trying to learn. Did a basic oil (and filter) change on my 2009 696.
I used Mobil 1 v-twin 20w-50 fully synthetic 4 cycle motorcycle oil. Lubed the lip of the new filter, but did not pour any directly into it.
Granted, it's also a lot colder since I've been riding regularly (40s and 50s) but I don't want to write it off as a weather problem.

The bike has done the following every time I have started it since:
Electrically turns on normally, but when I push to start it, it will turn over, catch and then almost immediately die.
If I open up the throttle, that kills it. The choke kills it. I repeatedly try to start it until the check engine light comes on.

AND if I do get it started (in neutral) putting it into first results in a big jolt and it dies as well and then I have to restart it from first. (and yes, I have the clutch in when I put it into first, I'm not a TOTAL idiot - but effectively the bike reacts as if I dont)
Hello Deby[if I may],

It happened to me once, since that day I do the following: Pull choke lever all open, then turn key to ign and push star button, then slowly pull pback on choke lever...

Try it and keep posting.
 

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I found the best way is to advance the 'choke' lever, then start it with no throttle. If I give mine throttle when it starts, it will die.
After starting, if it stalls when you engage first gear, it sounds to me like your side stand is down = automatic shut off.
 

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I'm relatively new to bikes, trying to learn. Did a basic oil (and filter) change on my 2009 696.
I used Mobil 1 v-twin 20w-50 fully synthetic 4 cycle motorcycle oil.
You might want to change to, 10W40 since, Ducatis with wet clutch "prefer 10W40" oil; maybe, 15W50, but, always, FULL Suynthetic.

Sorry I missed that ...:eek::mad:
 

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Hang a moment oily guys, two things to remember with Ducati's if the engine has a dry clutch use full or semi synthetic oil, if the engine has a wet clutch then semi synthetic is used, you will know if you get it wrong a wet clutch with full synthetic will slip. you wont wreck an engine using the wrong oil thick oil will make the old moto sluggish.
Roy
 

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Hang a moment oily guys, two things to remember with Ducati's if the engine has a dry clutch use full or semi synthetic oil, if the engine has a wet clutch then semi synthetic is used, you will know if you get it wrong a wet clutch with full synthetic will slip. you wont wreck an engine using the wrong oil thick oil will make the old moto sluggish.
Roy
Well the dealer only had the Shell Advanced Full Synthetic 10W40 oil as sold by Ducati in Italy, for the bikes.

When some guy from Italy came down from the factory, he said that if by any reason we were to 'leave' the dealership's service, to remember only to use Full Synthetic oil as long as it was a good one.

Now, you really lost me ...:eek::confused:
 

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The oil you are using should be fine, as Ducati recommends a 15W-50 synthetic for the 696. A 20W-50 uses the same "base" as a 15W-50. I ride my 696 all winter (Kentucky) and have never had problem starting after following the owner's manual exactly. 1) Turn on the key and let the instrument cluster go through its thing. 2) when the mileage is displayed on the instrument cluster pull the "Cold Start Lever" all the way back. 3) Start the engine without twisting the throttle. 4) adjust the cold start lever to give approx 2,000 RPM. 5) let the engine warm-up running about 1500 -2000 RPM until you get two bars on the oil temp indicator. If you do this the bike should run fine and not stall when being placed into gear. It's normal for the bike to "clunk" when put into first gear, especially when cold, as the viscosity of the oil is thick and bike clutches are made with multiple disks. Basically, I start my 696 as indicated above and wait a few seconds for the RPM to stabilize and set it for approx 2,000 RPM, then I go inside and get geared-up. Usually by the time I get my overpants on, jacket, gloves, helment, etc the bike will be warm enough to ride. Here is one tip the dealer gave me just in case the bike does not start-up or stalls immediately after starting: Turn the key off, close the cold start lever and simply start all over. Apparently this resets the ECU in some way. I can only recalling having to do this one time. My bike is approx 15 months old with 6,500 miles. Good luck.
 

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Hang a moment oily guys, two things to remember with Ducati's if the engine has a dry clutch use full or semi synthetic oil, if the engine has a wet clutch then semi synthetic is used, you will know if you get it wrong a wet clutch with full synthetic will slip. you wont wreck an engine using the wrong oil thick oil will make the old moto sluggish.
Roy
That is a myth. Please do not continue to spread it.
 

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I did the 600 mile service on my 696 a few weeks ago (now I'm almost due for the 1200) and DucatiMiami used a gallon of Motul 10W40 300V for it.

It's nice that both services are covered under the Ducati Forza deal and are completely free!!! I gotta say that def. tipped the scale towards getting the 09' and not an 2010 696, also the only diff is the larger heat guard and optional abs which is $1600 more in the 2010 model.
 

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a gallon!!! i do my own oil changes. they must have used the rest of the gallon on 3 other ducatis...it's impossible to get the recommended amount of oil into the crankcase without overfilling it.

er, what 1,200 mile service on a 696?

WMHayes mirrors my exact same experience starting the 696.

my 1100S is not without starting issues, especially if she hasn't been ridden for more than 4 or 5 days. just let the ECU go though its complete routine every time before hitting the start button. on the 1100, give it a little bit of throttle and it definitely helps (spoke with a tech yesterday and he acknowledged that this is a common enough issue on the 1100).

as for ABS, i'd much rather switch out my stock calipers to monoblocs and rotor upgrades, along with stainless steel braided brake lines :)
 

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My 696 lives on a trickel charger. 24 hours a day.
I've used the charger since I had battery issues during the first 6 months of ownership.
A new battery and trickle charger fixed things.

As for starting: Turn on key, wait about 5 seconds for the electronics to set themselves. Pull fast-idle arm all the way forward. Don't twist throttle before starting. Hit the starter button. My bike always fires up instantly, even on cold days (30s). I idle down to 2000 rpm. Some days, it has taken 6-8 minutes to warm up to two bars. I don't usually wait that long. Impatient. But if the motor is not as warm it wants to be, the motor will die when you put it in gear. Just let it warm for a few more moments.
Starting the 696 and riding off immediatley, like you do on a car, does not work. Patience is required...............Good luck.
 

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To thirdktm - my experience on my 2009 696 is absolutely identical - original battery was bad - replaced and 24/7/365 on a trickle charger - no problems
and do not give it throttle when starting
 

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the trickle charger made a huge difference. I started it today for the first time in over a month and it was as if I had started it yesterday.

Question - the manual references 3.1 L of oil - however in changing the oil and the filter today I could not even get in 2.5 L... Does that mirror other experiences?

thanks... Repsol 10w40 full synthetic... btw
 

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I recently switched to a Ctek charger. It has an blinking LED that lets you know the condition of the battery. I find that after some time sitting in this awful Chicago winter that I need to put the charger back on.

Has anyone figured why these batteries die so quickly? Is it the size? Draw from the immobilizer? Crappy battery?

You may ask why I dont just leave it on? I also use the Ctek to charge my summer car. Its nice to use one system to charge both. That way both my toys are ready to go, hopefully soon....I am dying to ride!
 

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Has anyone figured why these batteries die so quickly? Is it the size? Draw from the immobilizer? Crappy battery?
I would assume to reduce weight of the bike (less amp reserves, less weight). Ducati's seem to have some minimum weight thing going on... :D

Has anyone found a higher amp battery for the 696?
 

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I used to have trouble starting my 696 when I first got it. Sometimes it would take 10 -15 times before it would start.
I spoke with my dealer about it, and they said it's common during the break-in period. Sure enough, once I had about 1000 miles it, she starts everytime and I haven't had a problem since.
 

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That is a myth. Please do not continue to spread it.
Have i been getting it wrong in putting the wrong oil my Race Ducati's since 1981, I dont think so.
May i have a explination of the Myth you have quoted.
1 Semi synthetic oil for use in engines with oil Clutches.
2 Semi and Full synthetic oils for all air cooled Clutches.
3 Thicker Oils slow engine starting in cold climates.
 
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