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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apparently while torquing my oil filter bolt on a 2006 S2R1000, I seemed to have cracked the case. I spoke with a local dealer who so far has quoted me approximately $3200 for a new case (have to buy both sides) and 10-15hrs. in labor to fix it. I did not over crank the thing whatsoever but it did break and the bolt somewhat stripped. He told me that since I changed my oil and broke it, the warranty does not apply. I've only got 2100 miles on the bike and I've changed oil in cars/engines for 20+ years without a problem. I really don't know what alternatives I have other than to get another quote. He mentioned a possibility of welding it but I'm waiting to hear back from them sometime next week. Is it possible there was a defect? would DNA even care to hear me complain? If anyone has suggestions, I would greatly appreciate any feedback. Thanks :'(
 

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Sorry to say it, but I doubt there was a problem with the case where torquing the drain plug to the reccomended specs caused the case to crack and the plug to strip. That said it never hurts to put in a call to DNA, but I wouldn't expect anything out of it.

It is most likely repairable, but would require taking the damaged case half to a machinist/welder. I'll take a look at mine to verify, but It looks like the threads are on a raised boss which could be milled down then have a seperate round boss turned and tapped then welded to the case. It won't be cheap, but not $3200 by a long shot. It would most likely void your warranty as well.
 

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I'd call DNA for this reason...I find it hard to believe that the torque spec would be set so close to the metal's (shear?) failure strength that the case would crack, unless there was a flaw in the casting. Only way to tell for sure is to remove the case and see if it's thin or there's an air pocket inside.

Perhaps you should have an attorney involved to monitor/record progress and validate any claims.
 

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sorry to hear, but if its a smal crack maybe some JB weld? Going to hurt your resale if its not fixed properly but if your planning to keep it for a while then no worries.
 

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is that the oil filter bolt or the oil mesh filter bolt? either way when torquing usually i go -2nms than ducati spec. infact if u look at the duc torque spec sheet they say that each torque figure can differ +/- the actual spec depending on lubrication (whether or not you should lubricate it.)

secondly its possible to get the oil filter and oil mesh filter bolts mixed up and thus get the torque specs messed up.

before replacing the case you should most defintely weld it. you will need to take it to a welder that does aluminium welding and if thats the cause i wouldn't image it going over 500 bux. or you could be getto and get quick weld, which is sketchy but works in some cases (depending on how bad the crack is.....) either way u probably wanna put a gett er picture up cause i can't even tell whats wrong based on the one u have.
 

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if your oil filter screen is set up the same as mine (looks to be), you should never need to touch the bolt circled in the above photo. what torque did you use?
 

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dlovely said:
Apparently while torquing my oil filter bolt on a 2006 S2R1000, I seemed to have cracked the case. I spoke with a local dealer who so far has quoted me approximately $3200 for a new case (have to buy both sides) and 10-15hrs. in labor to fix it. I did not over crank the thing whatsoever but it did break and the bolt somewhat stripped. He told me that since I changed my oil and broke it, the warranty does not apply. I've only got 2100 miles on the bike and I've changed oil in cars/engines for 20+ years without a problem. I really don't know what alternatives I have other than to get another quote. He mentioned a possibility of welding it but I'm waiting to hear back from them sometime next week. Is it possible there was a defect? would DNA even care to hear me complain? If anyone has suggestions, I would greatly appreciate any feedback. Thanks :'(
How many foot pounds did you apply ? You were using a torque wrench right ??
 

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slowduc said:
if your oil filter screen is set up the same as mine (looks to be), you should never need to touch the bolt circled in the above photo. what torque did you use?
+1
that 6 mm allen head bolt does not get removed..
 

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Boy, I am bummed for you, but I think you may be screwed. Problem is, the whole thing points to human error.

Even if you were using a torque wrench, assuming you were using it properly (torque needs are different if you apply grease/antiseize) and you used the correct torque...it's just your word that you did all that and almost no way to prove it. There might be testing that could be done on the casing to identify a manufacturing defect, but it might be expensive.

My suggestion would be to look for Ducati NA to maybe cover the parts and you pay the labor (to the shop) as a goodwill gesture to someone who bought a brand new ducati and might buy more in the future if he's treated well.

good luck with that.

C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for the advice. I cranked it to 45 Nm and voila it cracked leaving me sick to my stomach 5 days later. I plan on contacting DNA and expecting the run around or just some giggling from people who will say its my fault. I just don't understand how an oil change can void a warranty but yet Ducati tells you to do the following for "winter storage" without voiding the warranty:

We recommend cleaning the motorcycle, disconnecting battery cables, draining all fuel from the tank, pouring just enough engine oil into the spark plugs threaded holes to spread a thin layer of oil on the cylinder inner walls. The motorcycle should be parked with the wheels off the ground and covered with the suitable canvas that will let condensation escape. While the motorcycle is left unused, battery charge should be ensured at regular intervals.

I just can't believe the cost involved in this process and I'm just hoping I can get it welded and have some ugly scars at worst case scenario. My other friend who repairs bikes said no way it takes 10hrs+ to put a crank case back together and that they are trying to scam me. I'm also obligated to buy both halves for some reason instead of the broken side. I will wait until next week when the ducati certified service manager returns and hopefully his buddy is capable of doing the weld. In the meantime I'll just cry lol
 

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again, if you mistook the oil mesh filter bolt for the oil drain plug (oil will still come out making you think you are draining the oil correctly), torquing it to 45 nms is like 20 or 30 nms too much (the oil mesh filter bolt is like 15 or 20 nms) and having it crack is pretty much expected.

you should make sure when u changed the oil that you drained it out of the right bolt/hole. the oil drain plug should be at the directly at the bottom of the engine and not on the side (like where your red circle is). and the oil drain plug requires a 16 or 18 mm hex. the oil mesh filter requires like a 6 or 8mm hex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
according to http://www.ducati.com/bikes/tech.jhtml it's 45 Nm for the oil mesh filter. The guy at the local ducati place where I bought the oil gave me 2 spacers and told me which ones to replace on my bike. I tightened the large nut facing you in the picture and that's what cracked the underneath bolt. I apologize if I'm not explaining this correctly as it's my first street bike and had it for only 2 months or so. Talk about Murphy's Law [laugh] I guess I learned a lesson and I'm never ever ever gonna change my oil on anything other than my lawn mower because I just can't afford to have any issues ever again. If by the luck of God that I can get it welded for under $1k I'd be a happy fella but I have a feeling I will be paying dearly for this operation. If anyone around here knows a good mechanic in New Jersey, I'd like to get a 2nd opinion. thanks
 

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I suggest you insist a DNA rep looks at the damage. I also suggest not touching the bike until then. Have a third party who has at least some expertise with you. Take good photos of the damage and if possible the chunk of broken case. The grain of the metal can tell a good story to a metallurgist. If the crack happened because, for instance, the casting plug (the screw you circled) was too long from the factory it is warranty. On the other hand, if you cross threaded it and that was the cause, well, too bad. Cause undetermined, maybe they will cover you or share the cost.
 

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dlovely said:
according to http://www.ducati.com/bikes/tech.jhtml it's 45 Nm for the oil mesh filter. The guy at the local ducati place where I bought the oil gave me 2 spacers and told me which ones to replace on my bike. I tightened the large nut facing you in the picture and that's what cracked the underneath bolt. I apologize if I'm not explaining this correctly as it's my first street bike and had it for only 2 months or so. Talk about Murphy's Law [laugh] I guess I learned a lesson and I'm never ever ever gonna change my oil on anything other than my lawn mower because I just can't afford to have any issues ever again. If by the luck of God that I can get it welded for under $1k I'd be a happy fella but I have a feeling I will be paying dearly for this operation. If anyone around here knows a good mechanic in New Jersey, I'd like to get a 2nd opinion. thanks
ahhhh! if you were just tightening the mesh filter cover (21mm head w/ the protruding temp sensor), then i'd say DNA may owe you new cases. i can't say i know the torque specs by heart (that's why i have shop manuals at home), but 45nm sounds reasonable.
 

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For the S4Rs per the shop manual, there is a spec listed for the "Oil Drain Plug" which is 42 nm. This is NOT what you want to use. (which is hard to believe) The correct part is "Lower sump oil drain plug" and that torque spec is 20 nm. It's so easy to confuse this and if it wasn't for a good mechanic friend of mine, I would have made the same error. I hope DNA will assist you.

Stuart
 

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Pretty hard call for a warranty claim since you were wrenching on the wrong bolt to change the oil. I hope this works out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
slowduc said:
ahhhh! if you were just tightening the mesh filter cover (21mm head w/ the protruding temp sensor), then i'd say DNA may owe you new cases. i can't say i know the torque specs by heart (that's why i have shop manuals at home), but 45nm sounds reasonable.
That's what I did tighten, the 21mm head with temp sensor. I took the sensor out and replaced the washer that was given to me from the ducati mechanic, it was the exact same size washer as the one that was in it. I then tightened it and crack it went. I should find out tues/wed of next week what the service manager says is possible in terms of welding/buying a new one and let everyone know.
 

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Maybe its the quality of the picture...but that sensor bolt looks to be a little chewed up. I hope everything works out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well spoke to the mechanic who stated its not weldable and a new crank case is about $3500 and would cost approximately $5600 to do the job with a new crankcase. Are there any independent ducati mechanics in the northeast near NJ/NY? I have a friend who recommended a guy that welds aluminum boat propellers. Does the crank case need to be completely apart when doing this? Any help would be appreciated as I cannot pay $5600 for the job. I still have to meet up with the welder to see if it's doable but if it involves taking engines apart and stuff, I doubt my local ducati dealership is going to be of any help.
 

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As someone else suggested...a clearer picture would really help (use your camera's "Macro" mode for a sharp close-up).

From what I think I see, it appears that the boss which the small bolt screws into (the one you never need to remove) is the one that is broken? I am assuming that your overtightening of the screen filter plug caused that area to split? If that is the case and the screen plug still can be snugged down a bit...?? Here is what I would try:

Drain your oil, remove filter screen plug (the one with the sensor/sender) let oil drain. When dripping has stopped, degrease the crack thoughly. Use a can of disk brake cleaner, with a spray tube, and blow the oil out of the crack, blow dry with compressed air...make sure area is oil free!! Repeat if needed...oil free area is critical.

Mix up J-B weld and patch crack, leaving extra J-B over the ouside of the case...I'd even cover that whole head of the small screw. I'd also put some where the little screw can be seen when the aulminum screen plug is removed (just keep the stuff out of the plug hole threads). Let this cure at least 24 hours. Put hi temp silicone on the aluminum cap (the one with the sending unit in it) and thread it in and snug it up gently (Do not torque it...the silicone will "glue" it in). Let this cure 24 hours.

Refill oil, start up motor and check for leaks. If no leaks, take it for a short ride, stopping now and again to check. If not major leaks...ride the thing and forget about it.

If you really feel the need to clean that screen every oil change, you should only have to redo the silicone. I think Ducati only reccommends cleaning the screen every other oil change anyway.

You could probably go 20,000 miles without the need to really clean that screen.

I have patched cracked engine cover to oil tightness using J-B weld and silicone. It doesn't last forever but should easily last a couple of oil changes and then you can clean your screen and re-silicone.

I feel your pain though...$5600 to fix something you could have avoided doing. I'm not trying to make you feel worse...but I also doubt that the case was defective. Good luck with the repair!
 
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