[Guest]

Being new top this, what oil are people running, and does it really matter as long as its a good quality sytnetic?

 

[test-reg]

on a 620 i would suggest MC specific oil due to the wet clutch, other than that, any good iol of the right viscosity will work.

 

[Norm]

I use Mobil 1 15-50 auto oil in all my bikes including wet clutches. There are tons of quality oils out there, pick whichever one you like best & you'll be fine. motorcycle specific oils are for suckers. (sorry Howie)

 

[test-reg]

I use Mobil 1

 

[Finnster]

I use Mobil 1

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the info. I have been running royal purple in my cars, lawn mover, weedeater(4 stroke). I noticed that they now make a motorcycle specific oil. I called RP they said it had more additives and costs a "bit" more, I get my 10w30 for around $63 a case and I was quoted $97 for the max cycle.

 

[MagnusVer]

the consensus seems to be that it doesn't matter much which oil you use, as long as you change it frequently enough...

 

[TX907]

Motul or Agip here.

This discussion comes up often on the Zane Laverda list and the conclusions are pretty much the same as listed in this thread, except the Laverdas seem more sensitive to clutch slippage (wet clutch). The preferences there seem to be Mobil, Motul and Agip.

 

[MikeD5172]

Mobil 1 20W50 for motorcycles here. I know, I'm a sucker. But nothing's too good for my Duc. ;D

 

[Norm]

Howie - I've run about 200,000 miles on different bikes with the Mobil 1 15-50 car oil, although I don't think I've gone over 45-50,000 on any one bike. Most of those miles have been on wet clutch bikes, I change oil at about 2000 miles (or once a year, whichever comes 1st), and between 3-5000 when I'm touring. I live on a dirt road & have a longish gravel driveway, so I probably generate more dirt than most. The only reason that I use synthetics is because of the resistence to heat breakdown & the "clingability" for cold starts. When I started using it, they didn't make a motorcycle specific oil & when they began, I spent a fair about of time talking to 2 different tech guys from Mobil as to whether or not I shoud switch. My "motorcycle specific oils are for suckers" remark is a condensed vertion of what they told me.

 

[test-reg]

45-50K sounds good to me. i think i'll make the change. thanx.

 

[terrible_viking]

Some synthetic "car" oils use friction modifiers that can cause the wet clutch on a motorcycle to slip. Look for "EC" or "Energy Conserving" in the API rating circle on the back of the bottle. If it doesn't say either, you'll be fine.

-R.

 

[jblouch]

There was an extensive oil evaluation in a recent issue (3-4 months ago) of one of the cycle mags (Motorcyclist or Sportrider?) that was very thorough and technical in some respects. The bottom line is there are a number of very good oils out there (dino, synthetic and blends) that do the job. Mobil 1, both cycle-specific and regular car oil, faired at the top of the heap in every test. There were other "top" brands as well, so dig up the issue and read for yourself.

This discussion is similar to which tire is best. . . everyone has an opinion, so pick one of the higher rated brands and go for it.

 

[chris]

My thirty-five cents: http://www.ducati.net/faq.cfm?id=10 ;D

 

[arecarless]

The only reason that I use synthetics is because of the resistence to heat breakdown & the "clingability" for cold starts.

Clingability- is that a technical term? I'm not being sarcastic, almost all my riding is short trips and I need something like that. Are you referring to a narrower viscosity range with temperature, so that synthetics stay in the engine longer after shutdown?
Rene Carlos

 

[mihama01]

Ducati has just added this topic to the maintanence section of their website.

http://www.ducati.com/bikes/service...ail&Category=Maintenance+&+tuning&detailId=46

The last paragraphs are most interesting always allow at least two minutes before riding to allow the oil to circulate.

They recomend Shell Advance Ultra for what its worth

Regards

stu

 

[Norm]

Clingability is a word that I just made up. From the tests I've seen, it seems that most synthetics cling to the metal parts better than dino oil & helps with the cold start = poor lubrication problem.

 

[arecarless]

From the tests I've seen, it seems that most synthetics cling to the metal parts better than dino

Thanks. Can you go into any more detail? Like, what tests? Any brand names? Do blends have any clingability?
Rene Carlos

 

[Norm]

I don't really have any answers to your questions. The best motorcycle tests I've seen are from Motorcycle Consumer News. Some of the car mags occasionally run some tests as well. I wouldn't take any one test result as gospel though & definatly ignore any test that is done (or sponsered by) an oil maker or seller. Occasionally a true oil expert posts info on some of the various lists, but I'm not one.

 

[M900S]

I'm currently using amsoil for v-twin. I have less engine vibration from my footpegs when I rev it up to 8,000 rpm, compared to motul which I was using for the last 10,000miles. My bike is a 2000 900sie. I think you can try different brand and see which one feels better.