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vincents4
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What do you do to get the tank off, so the gas doesn't go everywhere??
taking the gas tank off
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You mean you found one of these? :
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http://www.ducatimonster.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=tech;action=display;num=1076744928;start=0#0
I've got the Motion Pro QD's, IIRC, they're the 5/16" size.
Wrap one hose with a folded-up shop rag, and gently clamp it with needle nose vice-grips. Don't go overboard, or you'll injure the hose.
Snip that hose in the vicinity of the front engine mount. If you've clamped the hose adequately, you'll just spill a small amount of gas. Put the hose into a gas can and let it drain. Repeat for the other hose. Hose clamp the large halves of the QD's in the ends of the hoses that go up to the tank. Small halves of the QD's go in the line that goes to the injectors and the line coming from the regulator.
Be careful, as a small amount of gas can make a BIG fire. Do it outside if you can, so if it all goes wrong you won't have a towering inferno.
http://www.ducatimonster.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=tech;action=display;num=1076744928;start=0#0
I've got the Motion Pro QD's, IIRC, they're the 5/16" size.
Wrap one hose with a folded-up shop rag, and gently clamp it with needle nose vice-grips. Don't go overboard, or you'll injure the hose.
Snip that hose in the vicinity of the front engine mount. If you've clamped the hose adequately, you'll just spill a small amount of gas. Put the hose into a gas can and let it drain. Repeat for the other hose. Hose clamp the large halves of the QD's in the ends of the hoses that go up to the tank. Small halves of the QD's go in the line that goes to the injectors and the line coming from the regulator.
Be careful, as a small amount of gas can make a BIG fire. Do it outside if you can, so if it all goes wrong you won't have a towering inferno.
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vincents4
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thanks speeddog, didn't think about clamping the hose before I cut it. Planning ahead isn't one of my strong points.
Yeah I found on of those thingies on the drain magnet. It either happened in factory or at the 600. I am HOPING that whenever it happened, whoever dropped it said,"f##K" and put another one on.
Yeah I found on of those thingies on the drain magnet. It either happened in factory or at the 600. I am HOPING that whenever it happened, whoever dropped it said,"f##K" and put another one on.
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vincents4
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speeddog shoulda listened to you, i bought the 1/4 inch couplers first. guess what!! they leak.
Vincent,
Here's a thread I started when I found mine:
http://www.ducatimonster.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=tech;action=display;num=1076744928;start=0#0
In short, my conclusion is the same as yours, that if a split ring was missing, the engine would shortly make very loud and expensive noises accompanied by a large cloud of smoke as it grenaded. Not everyone shares that opinion tho...OTOH, nobody volunteered to prove me wrong either. :-/
Don't know if you've seen your valve gear, but the only way that a split ring could escape from it's proper position requires the closer shim to be out. If that happened on a running engine, it would expire very quickly.
In the time since I found that split ring, I did a 600 mile ride that I was committed to doing, and then removed the vertical cylinder to fix the leaking cylinder base gasket. That cylinder head had a full set of split rings, none were missing. I sorely needed to adjust the valve clearances also, and am in the process of doing that now. Hopefully today I'll confirm that the horizontal cylinder isn't missing any split rings either.
The split ring I found had no significant wear marks, unlike the ones I removed from the valves. My conclusion is that it was most likely dropped in at the factory. My receipt from the 600 mile service doesn't mention adjusting valve clearance, and IIRC, they didn't have the bike long enough to do it either.
Here's a thread I started when I found mine:
http://www.ducatimonster.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=tech;action=display;num=1076744928;start=0#0
In short, my conclusion is the same as yours, that if a split ring was missing, the engine would shortly make very loud and expensive noises accompanied by a large cloud of smoke as it grenaded. Not everyone shares that opinion tho...OTOH, nobody volunteered to prove me wrong either. :-/
Don't know if you've seen your valve gear, but the only way that a split ring could escape from it's proper position requires the closer shim to be out. If that happened on a running engine, it would expire very quickly.
In the time since I found that split ring, I did a 600 mile ride that I was committed to doing, and then removed the vertical cylinder to fix the leaking cylinder base gasket. That cylinder head had a full set of split rings, none were missing. I sorely needed to adjust the valve clearances also, and am in the process of doing that now. Hopefully today I'll confirm that the horizontal cylinder isn't missing any split rings either.
The split ring I found had no significant wear marks, unlike the ones I removed from the valves. My conclusion is that it was most likely dropped in at the factory. My receipt from the 600 mile service doesn't mention adjusting valve clearance, and IIRC, they didn't have the bike long enough to do it either.
Johnypebs,
I considered doing that, but wasn't sure that it wouldn't leak through the fuel pump on the supply line if the tank was full.
Have you checked that? I'm just curious, as it would be real easy for me to switch 'em since all of those parts are on my workbench...
I considered doing that, but wasn't sure that it wouldn't leak through the fuel pump on the supply line if the tank was full.
Have you checked that? I'm just curious, as it would be real easy for me to switch 'em since all of those parts are on my workbench...
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vincents4
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speeddog
if i give the benefit of the doubt and say guido dropped it in bologna, i'm curious why the it wasn't found at the 600 service. I know they at least changed the oil I keep finding stupid stuff from the 600 service like the cotter pin on the gas tank hinge was missing, maint light not reset. little stuff that makes me wonder. i'll cash in my 6000 coupon sometime this summer and be done with other people touching my beloved engine.
I have done 2v adjustments before, is the 4v a totally different beast? do you have a shim set? I've seen them on ebay for about buck 50.
anyway thanks for the insight.
if i give the benefit of the doubt and say guido dropped it in bologna, i'm curious why the it wasn't found at the 600 service. I know they at least changed the oil I keep finding stupid stuff from the 600 service like the cotter pin on the gas tank hinge was missing, maint light not reset. little stuff that makes me wonder. i'll cash in my 6000 coupon sometime this summer and be done with other people touching my beloved engine.
I have done 2v adjustments before, is the 4v a totally different beast? do you have a shim set? I've seen them on ebay for about buck 50.
anyway thanks for the insight.
The connectors I used are not flow dependant so it doesn't matter which way round you fit them, both male and female halfs are self sealing when parted and when connected the seal is made by an 'O' ring on the outside of the male half. The ones I fitted are marketed by Motrax in the UK and are identical to the connectors fitted as standard to the r1150r I had a year ago, which were hooked up in the same way as on my S4 for the same reason. If you find your connectors leaking then you almost certainly nicked the 'O' ring, as the mechanic did on my bmw when he replaced the battery under warranty. A bmw technical bulletin was sent round dealers because so many customers (like me) were being sent on their way with fuel leaks. The trick is to hold the release plate fully open when inserting the male 'O' ring end or you can shave the edge off the ring with the sharp edge of the plate. The 'O' ring is available as a bmw part, the shops that sell the connectors don't stock spares for them.
The closers are more of a cylindrical part, rather than the 'top hat' shape of the 2V part. Openers are similar. 4V pieces are a bit smaller too.
Never been into a 2V head, so I don't know exactly how it would compare. The 4V closer springs are quite stout.
The closers seem to get a good grip on the split rings and valve, it takes a bit of tapping to get the closer to slide down the valve enough to get the split rings out. I recall 2V folks saying that the closer clearance is just right when you can still spin the closer on the valve. My 4V closers won't spin on the valves, even with the closing rocker pushed down till it's up against the cam.
One of the local dealers offers a shim kit:
http://www.europeancycle.com/catalog/index.htm
Here's a couple other sources:
http://www.emsduc.com/pages/1/index.htm
http://www.motostrano-store.com/du2vashkit.html
They all look like the same stuff, at least on my monitor..and all seem to be about $290 for the 4V kit.
I inspected the kit at ECS, and they looked a bit crude compared to the OEM stuff. I bought their closer measuring tool, and it's a decent part.
IMHO, you cannot measure the thickness of a 4V opener with a regular micrometer. The sharp corner of the spindle bottoms out on the inside corner radius of the shim counterbore, or even hangs up partway in. Gives a totally erroneous reading.
My Starrett micrometer won't fit, and I'm not about to grind down the spindle on it. I made a little tool (similar to the closer tool) that sits down in the counterbore properly, just like the valve stem does.
I've done all of the maintenance on my cages and bikes myself, other than the very rare occasions when I didn't have the tools or couldn't find the problem. I can count those events on one hand, over a span of 20 years. I don't like other folks working on my stuff either...... :-/
Never been into a 2V head, so I don't know exactly how it would compare. The 4V closer springs are quite stout.
The closers seem to get a good grip on the split rings and valve, it takes a bit of tapping to get the closer to slide down the valve enough to get the split rings out. I recall 2V folks saying that the closer clearance is just right when you can still spin the closer on the valve. My 4V closers won't spin on the valves, even with the closing rocker pushed down till it's up against the cam.
One of the local dealers offers a shim kit:
http://www.europeancycle.com/catalog/index.htm
Here's a couple other sources:
http://www.emsduc.com/pages/1/index.htm
http://www.motostrano-store.com/du2vashkit.html
They all look like the same stuff, at least on my monitor..and all seem to be about $290 for the 4V kit.
I inspected the kit at ECS, and they looked a bit crude compared to the OEM stuff. I bought their closer measuring tool, and it's a decent part.
IMHO, you cannot measure the thickness of a 4V opener with a regular micrometer. The sharp corner of the spindle bottoms out on the inside corner radius of the shim counterbore, or even hangs up partway in. Gives a totally erroneous reading.
My Starrett micrometer won't fit, and I'm not about to grind down the spindle on it. I made a little tool (similar to the closer tool) that sits down in the counterbore properly, just like the valve stem does.
I've done all of the maintenance on my cages and bikes myself, other than the very rare occasions when I didn't have the tools or couldn't find the problem. I can count those events on one hand, over a span of 20 years. I don't like other folks working on my stuff either...... :-/
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vincents4
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they should ask you if you want single or double, single -the female end seals, double- both do. like a dumbsh!t I asked for single. 
anyway, finally put the gas tank back on and noticed that on the fuel lines a there is a white band on each line, one is marked R and the other M. More out of curiousity does anyone know what those letters stand for.
anyway, finally put the gas tank back on and noticed that on the fuel lines a there is a white band on each line, one is marked R and the other M. More out of curiousity does anyone know what those letters stand for.
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