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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking putting my '05 650 into the shed for the winter for the first time (just got the bike ~1 mo ago), and since my shed doesn't have an electrical outlet I was thinking taking the entire batt. out and plug it inside the house w/ a 12v Batt. Tender. However, I've heard that by taking the entire batt. out causes the bike to "turn-over" / reset / etc.. So I just want to run it by you all and see what addition things I need to watch out for? (e.g require red key to "restart", etc.) Again 1st-timer, so I just want to know all the steps and Gotcha before I regret taking the entire batt out instead of riding it down to a buddies' place that has an outlet where I'd simply plug the tender right up to the bike.
 

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From my experience with my '02, the only thing that will need resetting after reconnecting the battery is your clock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Speeddog: so in checking out the details and reading the Workshop Manual, it seems that I have to detached not only the seat (obviously) but also the fuel tank? I tried searching a bit for How-To's with pictures but couldn't find any, so you know of one? Because in the manual it said to drain all fuel out, remove the tank, ... So my thinking is, might as well just drive to a friend's gargage and plug the tender directly onto the batt. with the fuel tank still attached at its top. Is this wise?
 

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rtheman said:
Speeddog: so in checking out the details and reading the Workshop Manual, it seems that I have to detached not only the seat (obviously) but also the fuel tank? I tried searching a bit for How-To's with pictures but couldn't find any, so you know of one? Because in the manual it said to drain all fuel out, remove the tank, ... So my thinking is, might as well just drive to a friend's gargage and plug the tender directly onto the batt. with the fuel tank still attached at its top. Is this wise?
Unless they've changed things dramatically on your '05 Monster, you don't need to remove the tank to remove the battery.

A) Remove the seat.
B) Unlatch the tank at the front.
C) Prop the tank up with something other than the low-reliability OEM prop-rod, a hammer works well.
D) Remove the ground cable first, then remove the 'hot' cable.
E) Remove the rubber strap, and pull the battery out.

Don't knock the prop out and drop the tank on your hands....

As far as draining the fuel, that's a winter storage thing that I've not done, I'm in SoCal. ;D

Other folks who have to store their bikes in winter can give you first hand info on that...
 

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just to add to speeddog, the accepted bit of wisdom for the fuel tank is to fill up the tank completely and add fuel stabilizer, this way you have better protection of the inside of the tank from rust while it's sitting around...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thx guys for the wisdom. I suppose after taking the batt. out I simply un-prop the tank and have it rest inside a bike cover w/out the seats, then charge the batt. w/ a tender now that it's been taken off the bike should pretty much be it for a winterization. Of course, fill the tank up and add some sta-bil.

I just had a 6k service so I think that should cover it, and I'm in No. VA area so I'm looking at Dec-Mar to be w/out a bike :'(
 

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Re-latch the tank as well, just in case you decide to load it into a truck or something during winter.
Having the bike wiggle around with the tank unlatched is a real good way to crack the welds on the rear bracket.
 
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