Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Howdies.

I bought a pair of Monster City bars. These are a few inches higher than stockers on my 04. But there's a problem.

The stock bars have two holes and a pin that are meant to "fit" the throttle control, run/start switch assy, and front brake lever. So although I've rerouted the cables (several people told me the City Monsters would work with just a cable reroute), the City bars only have *one* hole. So I can fit the throttle in, but it puts the cable straight out (forward) instead of underneath. No biggie, thinks I, I'll work around that.

But the run/start housing has a little plastic nub inside that's meant to hold it in place. So I have two choices: try to drill a hole in the bars or dremel off the nub. I'm tempted to dremel it off as drilling holes would be problematic, but if I do I'm worried I might not have the "grip" anymore and it might start sliding around. Any thoughts?

Also, it appears the front brake cable is not gonna reach. I've messed around with it a bit, but it's gonna be really close. Any thoughts on what I might try to loosen that up a bit? I've already loosened that bracket in the front and tried to wiggle the cable up a bit, but it's already pretty tight from the brake up to that bracket.

I'm almost ready to go back to the stock bars...bummer. These City bars looked like just what I wanted...

--Barless--
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Definitely don't take off the little nub on the assembly, it will make the switch assembly slide around. It's standard practice to drill a hole in new bars to make them fit your components. Go for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
There's a recent string on "CRG mirror mounting" that covers this topic. Best of luck, don't give up :)
 
C

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts




Trumper,

I installed Renthals for a Yamaha Raptor ATV - They should be as high (if not higher) as the City Bars. I re-routed the harness and throttle cable, moved the front brake lines up as you described in the yoke on the triple, AND loosened the connection at the brake lever just enough to turn it down to get rid of a nasty bend in the line. I did have to drill holes for the switch gear. If you can't get the City bars to work I know these Renthals will - the position is awsome!

jb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Jim, did you ever cover the bar end holes? I have the same setup and sometimes wonder if I should leave them alone or cover them, but the hole diameter is non-standard.
 
C

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Moose Bars, another off road bar company, offers some flat aluminum plugs that look like they might be pretty sweet. I found some locally and I think I'll pick them up in the next couple of days.

I'll post some pics when I get them . . ..

jb
 
H

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
From the title on this thread, I was thinking more along the lines of "Bar Hopping" ;D

More on topic, though, Drill a new hole for the switch housing, don't remove your nubb. (hehehe, nubb) You can make a template of the original holes using a piece of paper. Mark the holes on the paper, holding the paper flush with the end of the bar. Then transfer the markings to the new bar, you should be able to get the mastercylinder and controls in the exact position, first try.

Or.......you can wing it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
200 Posts
I installed Renthals for a Yamaha Raptor ATV - They should be as high (if not higher) as the City Bars. I re-routed the harness and throttle cable, moved the front brake lines up as you described in the yoke on the triple, AND loosened the connection at the brake lever just enough to turn it down to get rid of a nasty bend in the line. I did have to drill holes for the switch gear. If you can't get the City bars to work I know these Renthals will - the position is awsome!

jb
Jim,

I like those Renthal bars. How much do they run? The Ducati City bars are around $75. Does the cross bar block the odometer & temp gauge?



Also, it appears the front brake cable is not gonna reach. I've messed around with it a bit, but it's gonna be really close. Any thoughts on what I might try to loosen that up a bit? I've already loosened that bracket in the front and tried to wiggle the cable up a bit, but it's already pretty tight from the brake up to that bracket.
Thumper,

FWIW, I was told by Ducati Seattle that with dual disc brakes that longer brake lines are needed to install the City bars on an 04.

Good luck and post pics. I definitely want this mod.
 
C

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Hulked-up;

No the cross bar doesn't block anything and it gives the bike a tough street-fighter look. I think I paid around $70 for them - so because you don't need to change out the hydraulics they should be the cheaper route.

I can't say enough about the affect on position. If I wasn't 6' this bike would be real sport-tourer now - I still need more leg room!

jb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
I have had no problems removing the plastic nub. If I feel it is a little loose a single piece of electrical tape inside the switch tightens things up just fine. I run carbon bars on a couple of my bikes and you wouldn't want to go drilling those. Cycle Cat always pre-drills or at the very least puts a starter dimple in the bar to make drilling easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
Thumper, I can send you some photos of the City bars installed on a 04 M620 if you need them. You will need longer brake lines for sure, I will check with the techs but I thought all the switch gear holes lined up ? if not, like Alex said, use a punch to make a mark and then drill a new hole. The switchgear plug-in on the inside of the right headlight ear also needs to be re routed. Shoot me an e mail address and I will send you some shots.. don't give up !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well,

I took some advice and ignored other stuff (haha). Here's the current status:

I rerouted the front brake lines through the housing behind the headlight. Now it works fine.

I went ahead and dremeled off the nubs as I didn't have a drill for hacking through all that chrome/steel. Works fine and only need a little tape of the left housing for the idle/turn signals.

The only problem left is the clutch! The cable is just short, so it works, but it's really stretching it out. I don't like that, so I'm trying to figure out how to ease up on it (it goes through a circular "holder" in back of the headlight--but you I can't see how to reroute that without removing the cable).

So almost done...it's a tight fit and takes some wrangling, but if I can suss out this clutch issue, it'll be fine.

--Wrangler--
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
A couple of things to consider. The clutch line can be run on the backside of the triple clamps to make fit and also watch out on your brake lines because you may find that on full suspension extension they may bind or tug on them slightly..
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Its never a good idea to stretch out your lines. Consider sliding the clutch and brake up the bar a little.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top