Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a used 2002 S4 from an out of state dealer. It is not under warranty. It has 9300 miles and I just had complete maint. performed at the local Ducati dealer. They flushed all the fluids, replaced all the filters, and did the "yearly thing". They replaced the chain and sprokets (went from "Tourqey" sprokets back to stock). I run the bike on 92 octane US. Since I got it back it has begun stalling when pulling away from stop lights and parking lots. It happens about 1/3 of the time not always and it bucks very noticably when it does.

I am not a new rider but it has been a few years since I logged a bunch of saddle time. I do not think I am to blame unless there is something specific to Ducati bikes that I am not aware of. My previous bikes were Suzuki 500 and 600s so this is a step up in a lot of ways.

I have searched the forums and found a great deal of threads on simmilar issues but no real "solution" many just complain about how long it takes for the dealership to diagnose their problem. At $39.95 per half hour that scares the crap out of me.

The stalls all seem to occur when I am pulling away from a dead stop in 1st gear. As I ease out the clutch and give a bit of throttle. Once they begin they don't go away unless I put the bike in Neutral and then shift into 1st again. (I am positive I was in 1st to begin with)

When the bike does not stall it still has a "rough" transition from dead stop to rolling. There is a feeling like I begin to spin my rear wheel, but I don't think it actually do. The bike has never smoothly taken off from a dead stop. It is almost scary how fast it goes from 0 to 35 mph. After it is rolling it changes gears like butter and is very smooth gearing up and down.

I live in North Carolina and it is currently about 50 degrees F here. These stalls have happened when the bike is cold with the fast idle on and when warm after riding a bit.

Please help... any advice and/or instruction will be welcomed and I promise to post exactly how this issue is resolved. I have not posted this in any other forum or thread so please put your feedback here.

Thank you all!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Could be a TPS adjustment/throttle body sync issue or something wrong with the clutch system. Do you ever notice a kind of pop sound (like a small backfire) when this occurs or is it a shuddering feeling going thru the bike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No pop but a definite shudder. Can a novice adjust the throttle bodies? I can follow directions and I am able to comprehend mechanical diagrams but I have no experience. Where should I look for How Tos??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
To do the TPS adjust/throttle body sync requires a factory service manual:

http://www.duc.nu/manuals/

TechnoResearch VDSTS and a laptop/palm computer:

http://www.technoresearch.com/Products/VDSTS/VDSTS-Motorbike.htm

and a good sync tool:

http://www.carbtune.com/carbdtls.html

It might be cheaper to have your shop do it depending on how much you trust your shop and how long you plan on keeping your S4. Doing the TPS adjust/throttle body sync should get to the root of your problem or a least elminate it as a cause.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, thanks for the suggestion and the links. If I do have my dealer look at the bike should I describe the problem or should I just tell them to adjust the Throttle Position Sensor and synch the Throttle Bodies? Should I try a new set of spark plugs first? Is there an easy idle adjustment? Should I give a lower Octane fuel a try? Am I just reaching for straws because I don't want the bike in the shop over the long weekend?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
You could pull the plugs and have a look at them, but I don't think that's the cause of your problem. The idle adjustment will be taken care of with the TPS adjustment/throttle body sync and I'm not really sure what octane to use in an S4, maybe 88 or 89 would be the lowest? I have a 2V motor and use the lowest octane (87) highest quality gas, available in my area, and my motor runs great on it. You might try going down an octane grade and see if it helps and if your not using a top tier grade of gas, change to one. Using higher octane than needed doesn't always help a motor run it's best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update---

OK, the plugs look great I think they changed them when they performed the service (not written up but they are too clean to be anything but new). I rode it around last night and I didn't have a problem as long as I used the choke (fast idle) to keep the engine at 1200 - 1500 RPM. When warm the bike normally idles just below 1000 RPM. Could this be the culprit? Should I still have the TPS adjustment and Throttle Bodies Synched? Obviously I can't ride around with the fast idle on but is there a quick fix or am I dealership bound for sure? Thanks again M900Sie and all of you who are reading this!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
I would still consider having the TPS adjustment/throttle body sync, because a correct idle setting is an intergal part of a proper TPS adjustment/throttle body sync procedure. It's not just a matter of turning an screw, to adjust the idle, like it is on a carbed bike. 1200 RPM is where the bike should idle when it is up to temp. And the fast idle adjustment should be checked as well if it only goes to 1500 RPM (should be ~ 2000 - 2200) when cold and is fully engaged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45,105 Posts
Okay, let's see what I can add.

I run 87 octane in my S4 with no problems. I'd think you'd be fine with it too.

My idle speed is also just shy of 1,000 rpm but I'm overdue a throttle body synch.

And yes M900, when fully engaged the fast idle takes it to about 3,000 rpm, but it's possible to partially engage it and set the idle anywhere in between.



Off topic... wheelgunner, where are you in NC?

Have you checked out our local club section?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
M900 Sie - Thanks again. I set up an appointment for this Friday with my dealership. They basically said exactly what you wrote. They too think I should go ahead and have the TB/TPS adjustment. Also they promised to have me in and out in about an hour at $45.00. So I am happy! Thanks for all your input. I'll keep you posted on results.

Rameses - I am in Charlotte and no, I haven't checked out the club section. I will though. Want to get real comfy with my bike before I go ride with a group... also want to get this stalling thing fixed so I don't look like a complete retard. I was so embarrassed the other day stalled at a light in front of a big shopping center. Not cool.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
I was having a few little stalling/cutout issues with my 2002 S4 recently.

I discovered the connection to the microswitch on the clutch was very loose and almost off. Bad contact. I cleaned it up with contact cleaner and pushed it on. Problem gone immediately.

Costs nothing too look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, so any last minute items I need to mention to the dealer when I get it serviced? I will check the clutch micro switch (any hints as to where that is and what to look for would be appreciated as I am a complete novice). How can I get them to take it for a test ride to make sure everything is cool or is that standard operating procedure?

Thanks again!
 
G

·
M900Sie said:
I would still consider having the TPS adjustment/throttle body sync, because a correct idle setting is an intergal part of a proper TPS adjustment/throttle body sync procedure. It's not just a matter of turning an screw, to adjust the idle, like it is on a carbed bike. 1200 RPM is where the bike should idle when it is up to temp. And the fast idle adjustment should be checked as well if it only goes to 1500 RPM (should be ~ 2000 - 2200) when cold and is fully engaged.
+1.

R.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
The micro switch is located on the underside of the clutch lever assembly. Have your dealer check and adjust it if necessary since your taking it in for the TPS/TB sync. Just ask if they will be taking it for a test ride when they complete the service, and if they say no request that they do so cause it will give you more piece of mind that it's performing properly. [thumbsup]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys! Looks like the problem is fixed! I had 3 stall free hours in the saddle on Sunday. The tech said the throttle bodies were slightly out of adjustment but that the idle was pretty low. Easy fix, evidently as they charged me a whopping $12 to fix it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45,105 Posts
wheelgunner said:
Thanks guys! Looks like the problem is fixed! I had 3 stall free hours in the saddle on Sunday. The tech said the throttle bodies were slightly out of adjustment but that the idle was pretty low. Easy fix, evidently as they charged me a whopping $12 to fix it!
12 bucks to synch the throttle bodies?

Where did you take it?

I might have to pay them a visit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
BMW-Ducati of Charlotte, NC, you can visit them on the web at www.bmw-ducati.com but remember I had just had them do an annual service and had bought some parts from them... I kinda think they felt bad for me. They are very good and their showroom is like an art museum. They also carry MV Agusta and Triumph bikes and they have a great preowned inventory. Check 'em out.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top