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Discussion Starter #1
Due to the oil galley plug, I have to. :'(:mad:
Any rookie mistakes to avoid?

Which bearings should I replace?
Crankshaft, gearbox (all 4) & cam rod bearings enough?
Connecting rod bushings, leave if within specs or replace?

Any bushings, oil seals, bearings etc I should just leave after checking because
"If it works, don`t fix it!"?

Any tips & tricks appreciated! :)
 

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i would replace anything you crack open. obviously you are removing the crank, so replace the crank mains. if you don't remove the rods, then leave them.

how many miles? if you don't remove the rods, then i wouldn't worry about the rod bearings unless you have a lot of miles.

i did my SS engine with only 4000 miles due to a leak. wrench said with that low mileage and no evidence of oil starvation to leave the rod bearings. said i could use the other bearings, but better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
how many miles? if you don't remove the rods, then i wouldn't worry about the rod bearings unless you have a lot of miles.
+ 120 000 km/75 00 miles so no trailer queen! ;D
So maybe replace everything, eh?


One or two good things in there, Chris, thx, also had head-cyl leaks so maybe
some bond on orings will help.
 

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One thing not mentioned on Chris's list are o-rings. I replace all of them when I take my engine apart. Also the gaskets, cylinder base and starter. Since you have a leak between your heads and cylinders be sure to replace all of those o-rings and use valve grinding compond to lap the head and cylinder. Just like lapping valves. If the matching surfaces don't look smooth you can use a piece of glass and sand paper to smooth and flatten the mating surface of the cylinder and then lap to the head. Good luck. My engine is in about a million pieces at this moment. Not a good feeling but I'll have her running again soon.
 

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Base gaskets and starter gasket can be reused. I think Im on reuse #4 on my Monster. I gotta learn to leave things alone and be done with them ;D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also the gaskets, cylinder base and starter. Since you have a leak between your heads and cylinders be sure to replace all of those o-rings and use valve grinding compond to lap the head and cylinder. Just like lapping valves. If the matching surfaces don't look smooth you can use a piece of glass and sand paper to smooth and flatten the mating surface of the cylinder and then lap to the head.
I also reuse gaskets w no problem. But orings etc will be new.
Been toldd about the head-cyl lapping, seems like a good tip! Thx!

Right now I`m stuck w removing the primary gear (like many of you!).
Damn, it`s hard! Know there are other threads bout this but I must be
using the wrong search phrase. Anyone know?
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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replace everything, altho i don't usually bother with little end bushes. check and see how they feel. use new rod bolts. none of the gaskets are very expensive at all. give the big end bore a good cleanout when you have the plug out. more than likely it'll need some gears - it's about all that wears out on them. check the rocker arms too.
 

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chris said:
This article I wrote some years ago may help a little. ??
http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/maint/rebuild/index.html
Chris, thanks for linking that article. It expanded and clarified on what you were telling me about shimming the shafts back before Christmas when we were discussing my "musical motor parts" scheme to get two motors running out of 2 1/2 motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thx, Brad, I will change verything but little end. Incl spring for gear fork which
can get tired. Motor`s run 75k miles after all.

Read that there is a different oil galley plug w Allen fastening -99 onwards.
Does it fit my crank?
When the plug is mounted, you are suppesed to give it a few punches w a
tool to misforme it a little so it won`t back out. Can anyone describe this
in detail or have a pic of that?
 

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greenmonster said:
Thx, Brad, I will change verything but little end. Incl spring for gear fork which
can get tired. Motor`s run 75k miles after all.

Read that there is a different oil galley plug w Allen fastening -99 onwards.
Does it fit my crank?
When the plug is mounted, you are suppesed to give it a few punches w a
tool to misforme it a little so it won`t back out. Can anyone describe this
in detail or have a pic of that?
The punch trick is done by using a pointed punch. The point of the punch is set right on the edge of the plug and the tread. Then "bang" and the the plug should distort a bit along with the thread. It sould act like an interference lock but that you could still unscrew it with a tool if you wanted to. Not that you would want to. If you want to be very safe you could punch it in two places. How's that?
 

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ducman851 said:
Base gaskets and starter gasket can be reused. I think Im on reuse #4 on my Monster. I gotta learn to leave things alone and be done with them ;D
That'll never happen Duckman. [laugh] I think we are cursed by the same disease.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sounds good, Mac! Thx!
What about the -99 on plug, does it fit, anyone knows?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Primary gear off tonight, cases splitted. ;D
Had a Allen galley plug, 2,5 turns out from fully seated. :mad:
Mine registred as arriwed in Sweden April -97, a pre -99 obviously.
So new plug ( but no signs of the punch trick? ) and a Allen type plug obviously do fit.

My plug:

 

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the later plug is steel. i'd use one of them and strong loctite it in - i use red loctite on them, but there is stronger, being very paranoid and cleanliness. should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Steel & red it will be, thx again, Brad!
 

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Sounds like you have got the primary gear off, but I will pass on this tip because I didn't see it in the threads referenced above. Here is what I do, it was recommended to me by my mechanic that couldn't get the gear off himself. Get a huge puller, use a washer between the puller and the crank. Put tension on the puller, lots of tension. Then heat the gear with a torch. Keep heating. The gear will come off like a rifle shot so stand out of the line of fire and make sure nothing of value is in its path. I have used this method several times and can testify that it is much better then brute strength alone.
 

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