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Sidestand cutoff elimination for $1.49
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Here's a rough sketch of the diagram.
http://www.ducatimonster.org/cgi-bin/ImageFolio3/imageFolio.cgi?action=view&link=Misc&image=Picture.JPG&img=&tt=
Kevin
http://www.ducatimonster.org/cgi-bin/ImageFolio3/imageFolio.cgi?action=view&link=Misc&image=Picture.JPG&img=&tt=
Kevin
Sorry to bother yet again, but you were going to confirm the blue/black wire colors.
Also, This sounds too easy to be so easy :
so . . . .
Just to confirm are you saying you spliced the diode into the wires, or you cut the wires completely and made a connection from that point with the diode? Sorry, I'm not very mechanical and am just learning with the help of all you wonderful people ;D
Also, This sounds too easy to be so easy :
so . . . .Just to confirm are you saying you spliced the diode into the wires, or you cut the wires completely and made a connection from that point with the diode? Sorry, I'm not very mechanical and am just learning with the help of all you wonderful people ;D
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If you're going to do a mod to the sidestand this is the way to go!!
The safety relay requires a ground to complete the circuit to allow you to run the bike. Non modded bikes achieve this through the stand switch only. Disconnect the plug above the stand and with the ignition on take your multi-meter and determine which wire has power from the bike. This is the one that needs a ground, and doing so you will hear the relay click!! Find the neutral switch on the rear right side of your engine case. Disconnect the wire. This wire is also energized and grounds with the bike in neutral turning on the neutral light. Now you splice in a wire between these two circuits leaving the original circuits intact!! Put a diode in the middle of the wire you've spliced in. I used a 3amp 200 volt barrel diode from Radio Shack, and where the diode is in the circuit I used bayonnet connectors to enable its quick replacement if it ever fails. The diode only works one way. Its an electric 'one way check valve' so if your bike doesn't start you need to turn the diode around. After you're done put some heat shrink over the diode to keep the moisture off it and offer it some degree of protection.
My Ducati owners manual has two drawings in the back.One for the M900 and the other for the 600, 750. The wire colours are different in these drawings so I strongly suggest using a multi-meter before chopping away at your wiring.(Mine runs from the pins in the plugs themselves but doing it this way requires more patience and care than most people have. Be careful if you go this route not to damage the plugs and pins theyre fragile)
NOTES
-If the diode fails the bike will revert back to how it was prior to this modification.
-The diode is required in the circuit for the neutral light to be able to extinguish. Remember it's an electrical one way check valve.
-The sidestand switch is in the closed (switch on) position with the stand up.
-The neutral switch is in the closed (switch on) position with the bike in neutral only.
-Your running bike will quit instantly if you put it in gear with the stand down with this modification.
-With the stand up and the bike stalled ie. an intersection, you do not have to find neutral to start it up. The stand is up remember so just fire it up and ride on.
Tires down, blue skies and twisty roads!!
Just_ducky
The safety relay requires a ground to complete the circuit to allow you to run the bike. Non modded bikes achieve this through the stand switch only. Disconnect the plug above the stand and with the ignition on take your multi-meter and determine which wire has power from the bike. This is the one that needs a ground, and doing so you will hear the relay click!! Find the neutral switch on the rear right side of your engine case. Disconnect the wire. This wire is also energized and grounds with the bike in neutral turning on the neutral light. Now you splice in a wire between these two circuits leaving the original circuits intact!! Put a diode in the middle of the wire you've spliced in. I used a 3amp 200 volt barrel diode from Radio Shack, and where the diode is in the circuit I used bayonnet connectors to enable its quick replacement if it ever fails. The diode only works one way. Its an electric 'one way check valve' so if your bike doesn't start you need to turn the diode around. After you're done put some heat shrink over the diode to keep the moisture off it and offer it some degree of protection.
My Ducati owners manual has two drawings in the back.One for the M900 and the other for the 600, 750. The wire colours are different in these drawings so I strongly suggest using a multi-meter before chopping away at your wiring.(Mine runs from the pins in the plugs themselves but doing it this way requires more patience and care than most people have. Be careful if you go this route not to damage the plugs and pins theyre fragile)
NOTES
-If the diode fails the bike will revert back to how it was prior to this modification.
-The diode is required in the circuit for the neutral light to be able to extinguish. Remember it's an electrical one way check valve.
-The sidestand switch is in the closed (switch on) position with the stand up.
-The neutral switch is in the closed (switch on) position with the bike in neutral only.
-Your running bike will quit instantly if you put it in gear with the stand down with this modification.
-With the stand up and the bike stalled ie. an intersection, you do not have to find neutral to start it up. The stand is up remember so just fire it up and ride on.
Tires down, blue skies and twisty roads!!
Just_ducky
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Good write up. You listed everything i was to lazy to when i started the thread
Kevin
Kevin
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Sweet! Glad i could help spread the love.
Kevin
Does anyone know the guage wire that I'll need to tap into???
12g ??? I'm preparing to make a couple, and will sell my leftovers (I'll pre-make the eliminator for you) if anyone's interested, I'll sell it cheap, I just don't want to say a price until I buy the parts... I'll take pictures... I'm guessing less then $10, probably closer to $5... I just need to know the guage of wire first.
12g ??? I'm preparing to make a couple, and will sell my leftovers (I'll pre-make the eliminator for you) if anyone's interested, I'll sell it cheap, I just don't want to say a price until I buy the parts... I'll take pictures... I'm guessing less then $10, probably closer to $5... I just need to know the guage of wire first.
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208 Posts
Mine is 16 guage wire and its 'obese' for the job. 18 guage would be more than ample.
Simon.
Simon.
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