Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Turned the clutch adjuster rod all the way in today. Took bike out for a short ride. Shorter travel of the lever made a world of difference to me. Better control and handling with my small hand. I have a 1000 ds heavy clutch. Has anyone done the same work? If so, please share your experience. I think it's better than going to an A/M slave cylinder. Thanks.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
897 Posts
There is no clutch adjuster rod. You've just ruined everything. You'd better give me your bike before you get hurt. [laugh]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I beg to differ. Look between the lever and the front and rear brake master cylinders. The one in the rear is longer. BTW, my bike is '03 1000 sie.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Ddan is correct! There is no adjustment rod for lever travel on the clutch. The rod (screw?) you are adjusting has to do with fluid release (return) in the clutch line. When you pull in the clutch lever it is pushing a piston in the master cylinder and forcing the fluid into the line to disengage the clutch. When you release the lever the piston returns back past a hole in the master cylinder to allow fluid back into the reservoir. This is done so fluid is not trapped in the line, heats up and expands causing disengagement of the clutch. The brakes work the same way, only trapped fluid will cause gradual (you hope) brake engagement!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45,105 Posts
shortrider said:
I beg to differ. Look between the lever and the front and rear brake master cylinders. The one in the rear is longer. BTW, my bike is '03 1000 sie.
If you to touched the little screw in the lever that is indeed an adjustment that sets correct free play so the brake fluid can return to the reservoir. Ddan and M900Sie are correct.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,326 Posts
you might want to re-adjust what you adjusted back the way it was originally ;) and go get yourself some adjustable levers. I have shorty CRGs. [thumbsup]




my .02
michelle
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
I forgot to ask in my last post, but, you state your bike is an 03 1000Sie. It should already have Brembo adjustable front brake and clutch levers, the round disk on the levers with the numbers, correct? If so why would you be adjusting anything else? Was there not enough adjustment, for your taste, with the disk?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
But adjusting the lever freeplay should have no effect on the amount of effort required to pull the lever, correct? He talks about shorter travel which would be lever adjustment, and how what he's done would be better than aftermarket slave, which would be effort. I guess I'm missing something here.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,326 Posts
M900Sie said:
But adjusting the lever freeplay should have no effect on the amount of effort required to pull the lever, correct? He talks about shorter travel which would be lever adjustment, and how what he's done would be better than aftermarket slave, which would be effort. I guess I'm missing something here.
I don't think you are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,974 Posts
he's perceived shorter travel because adjusting the freeplay also moves the friction zone. this can be good, if you don't over do it.

a better solution is again, to get shorty levers, but not because they are adjustable (because that only adjusts the rest positoin, not travel length or multiplier force). It helps because you can "index" the short lever against your pinky or ring fingers by leaving them on the bars and only pulling in the clutch lever with your other two fingers. this prevents you from pulling the lever in any more than you need to (our bikes' friction zones are notoriously close to the rest position of the lever).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The rear brake adjuster rod ( D.P.#8000.62586) is about half inch longer than the clutch adjuster rod; same thread size. And no - there is no D.P.# on the clutch adjuster rod. Dealer here told me that I have to buy the whole assy. in order to get the cluth rod, and not sure if it will come with the lever. Now that the lever is closer to the grip, my small hand is powerful enough to manage the clutch lever (instead of using my finger tip to pull the clutch lever). The clutch lever now has less travel so there may not be enough fluid to push the A/M slave cylinder piston (with which I may gain about 20%). It 's working perfect for me now with the dial on 3, I will try 4 weather permitted. Don't bother with it, I am the one with small hand. Don't risk your adjuster rod, or you have to pay $4 for the rear brake rod and have a machine shop to turn it down.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top