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First, let me apologize for starting another oil thread. The answer is probably here somewhere, I've spent the past hour or so searching the multitude of oil threads and haven't found the answer.

2 questions...
1- my m620 is overdue an oil change, and I think it may have been overdue when I bought it and changed thee oil a few months ago. I was thinking of using some cheap, non synthetic 10w40 to run for like 1000 miles before changing it again to clean out some gunk. Will this be ok? It's not the energy conserving kind that has been reported to cause clutch slippage.

2- the bike has around 25000 miles, which I suppose may be considered high mileage. I know in my high mileage car, it's teccomended to not use full synthetic oil as it my lead to leaking seals and such. Should I consider switching permenantly to a non-synth oil? I'm thinking no, I should just use mobil1 10w40 or something.

Thanks
 

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my opinion (and I'm sure others will chime in) is that you should not switch back and forth from synthetic to non-synthetic and visa-versa.

If you have been using synthetic you should stick to synthetic.

my advice is to go with Shell Rotella-T synthetic 5w40

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html

let the flame begin.....
The switching part I get, the thing I don't still get is why, so many guys in this forum use the Rotella oil for their bikes instead of a motorcycle specific oil...That's my only question in this and the other oil forum...

GfromSB, from my auto experience, switching is not good, if your bike has sludge build up, the best thing to do is to perform closer together oil changes with the same type/grade of oil the engine came with.

Here in Panama, we have an issue with some, car engines, building up sludge at even 3K intervals, we've changed oil brands and gone done to 10W40 mineral, accepted by factory and still same issue...next step, 10W30[5W30 we get mostly synth] and expensive. But, in the 'case cars', sludge is diminishing in three oil/filter changes.

So by all means, stay on your xxW40 grade oil as long as it is synthetic and use the OEM filter, perform the oil changes[2 or 3] at 1.5K intervals and this should remedy the sludge issue.

Hope this helps...
 

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I think the main reason most people use Rotella and don't want to go with moto-specific oil is primarily the cost, ease of obtaining the oil at your local Walmart, and the fact they're not convinced that moto-specific is the only way to go (at least that's why I do it). I use 5w40 b/c of the temperature range and whichever way you go, you should be ok.

the only thing you want to stay away from is the oils that have additives for higher mileage engines. I understand they can really wreak havoc on bikes.
 

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For 1000 miles? Use whatever you want.
I use tractor specific dino oil these day.
 

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The reason folks are switching to Rotella and Delo diesel oils is not only cost.
Is is more likely that the most current specification for engine oils has lowered the amounts of ZDDP (zinc dithiophosphate) since it poisons catalytic converts. The problem arose when engine builders reported cam and follower failures on flat tappet engines due to the lower friction reduction properties of the new API (American Petroleum Institute) specification oils for modern engines. The most common option has been Rotella and Delo. These diesel oils have retained the previous levels of ZDDP) and are more suitable for break in oils - especially in flat tappet engines.
 

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Shell Rotella Synthetic is JASO MA certified... so it is a motorcycle oil.
It's even on the label on all the new bottles. And if it's not cheap enough for you... sell the duc.
 
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