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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there some dark magic trick that makes adjusting the idle screw easier, or am I simply going about it wrong??

It's located in BETWEEN the throttle bodies RIGHT below the airbox. It's also a tiny little Hex screw. To get mine loose I had to take off the airbox and work from there in order to set the TPS.

Is this ordinary, or am I missing something? I can't believe that it's supposed to be this hard....

Thanks

Reid

P.S: Adjusted the TPS back to the stock setting and set the Idle as best I could, it seems to run much better, no stuttering when cold and no fouling of plugs. VERY NICE!! I might try to re-do it once more once I can get it in a nice warm shop over winter, but the adjustment made a huge difference.
 

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we would normally pull the lh inlet tube out, but it depends how you like working on things. real pain, for something that's such a basic and required set up procedure. the ducati manuals and video show the airbox out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here's another question.

If I adjust the idle to about 1200 RPM with the Airbox off, won't the Idle change when I put the airbox/filter/etc back on due to the restrictions?

How is one supposed to ever set the idle baseline correctly?
 

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hollowellreid said:
Here's another question.

If I adjust the idle to about 1200 RPM with the Airbox off, won't the Idle change when I put the airbox/filter/etc back on due to the restrictions?

How is one supposed to ever set the idle baseline correctly?
Like you said, about 1200 RPM.
 

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the baseline idle is set via a degree setting of throttle opening, using the mathesis, dds or technoresearch. then you reassmeble it, start it, set the running balance with the air bleeds closed, then set the idle speed with the air bleeds and then set the idle mixture using the idle trimmer and air bleedsas required to balance the mixture in each header.
 

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Brad,

On a '00 M900Sie what baseline idle degree setting do you use and what CO% do you try to achive with the idle trimmer adjustment?

gr
 

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im confused. i see people using the term idle speed and baseline idle interchangeably here, but both are in terms of RPM. baseline is set by the idle adjustment screw, and idle speed by the air bleeds. but i thought the bleeds were to be exclusively used to set the idle speed (and balance)? If you set the baseline to 1200RPM with the idle screw, what additional adjustment for speed would the bleeds even need to do?
 

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If you go by the manual, once you set the TPS for 0 degrees (w/butterfly on throttle body completely closed), you then adjust the screw that opens the butterfly on the throttle body to a specific degree setting and leave it, do not adjust it again. Then adjust the screw to open the butterfly on the other throttle body to get balance close. I count the number of turns it takes to close it, then reverse to get close. Then start and adjust that screw for throttle body balance in mid to high RPM range. Then for low RPM balance, idle speed and CO adjust, use air bleed screws along with idle trim in the ECU. I use a TechnoResearch VDSTS with a laptop for degree settings, RPM indication (more accurate than tach) and CO trim adjustment and a Morgan Carbtune for balance adjustment.
 

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Yes, the TPS is connected to one throttle body. To check the CO I take it to a local tuning shop that that hooks me up and allows me to do the adjustments as gas analysers are very expensive to own considering how little I would use it.
 
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