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I finally got off my arse and did it: http://www.ducatigirl.com/inventory/tach.html

I figured the worst I could do was destroy the tach and either have to take it to the dealer to fix it or stick a big happy face sticker over it and ride around without a functioning one.

If anybody has any tips on improving my procedure, I can put it on the page. I sort of groped my way through it.

Zina
 

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As long as it doesn't leak, I'd count it as a win [thumbsup]

Reason I say that though, is that I developed a leaky speedometer a while back and it got expensive to fix..
Give Pogo a bath and see how your redneck engineering holds up ;D
 

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hi zina,
i just did one of these tach jobs about 2 months ago. i did not have to cut the white plastic, if you insert a small blade between the black bezel and the white body, you can pry most of the way and in a few places you will actually have to drive the blade in to seperate the bezel from the body. they use very little glue at the factory and only about every 1/2" is there a dot of glue. reapply glue in same places and you can never tell. i took the same attitude you did, its already#@%&^*# -up so lets give it a try!!!
 

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Zina - I did the same. It kinda sucks and is a hackjob at best, but its nothing a little glue and electrical tape cant fix. Besides - the unit is hidden inside the gauge cluster.

Its been over a year and no leaks in the tach. I tried to pry the bezel but it was too brittle for me to work with. Did you glue the screws in place to avoid this procedure again?
 

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hey, glad to see this worked out for ya!  looks good!  [thumbsup]  and the area at the bottom where the black powder flaked off will just serve to remind you of how futile resistance can be  ;)

(I had similar issues with mine - the face plate screws came off, and the needle would jump around a LOT - took the sucker apart, attached the faceplate screws....used loctite and glued the back of em with hot glue gun to keep em in place....tightened up the brass nuts on the back of the unit to improve the contacts and keep the needle from bouncing......tested it, and everything worked great!....was getting ready to put it back in, and managed to drop the tach on the floor....man, i thought it was fux0red before....)

ah well, used that whole experience as an excuse to get me an SPA tach  ;D
 

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zina said:
HaaHAHAHahAHahah. And women. Resistance is futile.

Zina
Yea, it's funny because it's so true. ;D
Little did I know when I bought a Ducati, I was picking up TWO hobbies for the price of one.
 

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I think your work came out great - tho' I would never have the B*LLS to cut my tach
housing!
I am very interested in the bezel removal method - anybody else done this???

Thanks,
Rob
 

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hey rob,
the bezel will come off . it took about 20 min. the factory only puts 1 drop of glue every 1/2-3/4 in apart around the under side of the bezel. using a small eyeglass screwdriver and an exacto knife ( and a lot of patience) it came right off. now be very carefull that you dont knock the needle off. but if you do dont worry too much. put it back on about 1/4" behind the stop pin ,push down firmly . then gently lift the indicator needle over the peg to the proper side of the stop peg. on the newer tachs the needle rises to the highest rpms and then settles down to 0 rpms. this process seems to reset the tach. i dont know exactly how it resets , but it does and will be accurate again.

duc-boy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
bozcorob said:
I think your work came out great - tho' I would never have the B*LLS to cut my tach
housing! I am very interested in the bezel removal method - anybody else done this???
I did try to remove the bezel, but I poked at it with a screwdriver and pried at it a little instead of carefully cutting on it. My concern was that if I cracked the face, it was game over. I immediately abandoned that idea and grabbed the Dremel with my impatient ham-hands...

Zina
 

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sorry guys but i forgot to tell you 1 inportant step to removing the bezel. the glue the factory uses is kinda like super glue. it has extreem tensil strength but little to no shear strength. after you run the knife blade around the inside of the bezel and remove any glue you can with the knife, then you smack it around the sides of the bezel to shear any remaining glue. use a plastic face hammer or something slightly softer than the plastic.after it appears loose, it will sound diff. what i mean is when you first smack the side it will have a higher pitch and after the glue shears it get a thud sound. use the small screwdriver to gently pry the bezel off after after most of the glue is sheared. if anyone wants this done i will do it for you for a few$ just drop me a e-mail and i will give a shipping adress.
jeff
 

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zina said:
I don't want to talk about this.  :-[

Zina
Somebody coax her out from behind the couch with some carbon fiber.   [cheeky]

M900s - How did the hacksaw work on this?  I need to do this as well, but don't have a Dremel.
 

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Did anyone try acetone or another "super glue" solvent to soften the adhesive that holds the bezel on? Just wondering..........
 
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