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Why man. Why!


i sold the topclamp from my S4 to a guy on this board who had a 620 and what he did was he use the clamp with a set of cyclecat rizers for the S4 and it came out great. iam not sure if he had to buy new brake/clutch lines. if you stick to stock bar hights you may not have to change anything.
 

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I'm pretty sure the cables and hoses will be fine.
The instrument mount may be different on the M1000 vs. the S4, but I'm not sure. I've not looked close at that aspect of the few M1000's that I've seen.

Tricks? Support the front of the bike with a front stand or something under the front cylinder. Put a thick towel on the tank so you don't ding it, or even take the tank off. Take a bunch if digital pics of the cable and wiring routing before you take the original stuff off, it's very nice to refer to when reassembling. Carefully check for clearance at full lock between the tank and the bars after you've reassembled everything, so the bars don't doink the tank or pinch your fingers (more applicable with fitting clipons, but still good to check).

I'm pretty sure you don't have to remove the ringnut to do the tripleclamp swap, at least I didn't have to on my S4 when I removed the top triple.

Here's a link to the tool I got for the ring nut:
http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/enter.asp?pagenum=2590
About half way down the page, Part# 5501A27.
It's a very nice tool. Don't know how it compares price wise with the official Duc tool.
 
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no need to remove the ringnut but the bolt that pinches the triple around it is a bear... hit the triple with a heatgun right on the ringnut (that slotted bit with the holes in the center of the top triple) to break down the locking compound. then slacken the steering stop on the bottom triple so you can cock the bars ALL THE WAY right (don't dent the tank!) for good access to that bolt or you'll round out the head.
instrument mounts ARE different but with the stock s4 bar riser thingies, your guages tie into it. shouldn't be terribly complicated.
cable lengths are equal so no worries there.
 

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Strati's on the money there. For some reason, clearance is tight, and they put an M8 with a 5mm hex in there. Gotta be careful on getting good hex engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to all for the input. Please consider the following:

oneducs: Bad back necessitates more upright riding position

Speeddog830 & s4strati: Got pit bull front/rears stands; did the towel thing; took pictures; every effort will be made not to damage the tank (oh, you betcha!); Duc tool is around $82 (ouch!)

I've taken the allen bolts out of the clamp no problem, but the clamp seems pretty secured nonetheless. That's why I thought I'd have to remove the ring nut, which I managed to "modify" cosmetically. I see my rubber mallet lying next to my hammer, and at this point am not sure which to use. Arghhh! What gives (pun intended?)?

sliver: See note sent separately
 

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different handlebars would be less money than the tool you want and most likely what ever you paid for the S4 stuff..
and far less complicated !! We often sell "Ducati city bars" for a more upright position. There are also some nice "bar risers" from Rizoma that allow you to fit pro taper style bars which also help cut down vibration..
Most people are looking for ways to get away from the S4 fixed position bar set up IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dave,

Your point about the fixed bar position of the S4 is well taken. But, I got the S4 setup for next-to-nothing and prefer it over the stock setup. Eventually, after some back problems I have clear up, I hope to return to a more aggressive and adjustable setup; e.g., clipons; but for this summer the stock setup has to go, and my preference is for the S4 setup. I don't mind complicated at all, as long as it all comes together in the end.

Thanks for the feedback, though.

Bill
 

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Speed_Racer,

I recommend the rubber mallet...You can try gently driving a screwdriver or two into the splits of the triple to wedge 'em open a little bit. Use care not to ding stuff with the tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
S4 top clamp/bars on an '04 M1000sie result

The conversion went smoothly. However, after riding the bike around for awhile, I decided against the S4 setup. I, subsequently, removed it and succeeded (this time) in installing a set of helibars from a 900 SS/CR about 1/16" under the original triple clamp. I was able to reroute the cables, etc., so I could adjust the bars inward similar to a 900 SS/CR (or, more specifically, similar to the VTR1000 I used to own). While this setup as configured is a bit lower than stock M1k, it is adjustable and significantly lower than stock S4. I'm quite pleased with the result. The only gotcha I experienced was the allen head bolts that hold the turn signal brackets were too fat (if that's the term) to permit clearance past the helibars pincher bolts (if that's the term). I resolved this by purchasing button-head allen bolts (<$.50).

I'm now looking for a nice handlebar clamp to cover the 4 holes where the original handle bar used to be.

Of course, I could have bought Cycle Cats, but that'd be nowhere near as compliciated; i.e., fun ;).

NOTE: Thanks to all for the advice. I had tried earlier to put the helibars on, but failed. With the help from the folk on this board, voila! Happy camper.
 

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Speed Racer: Strati again was reading my mind when he asked you for the weights of the stock S4 parts!

We have both been looking for that info, to add to our weight reduction database. You will be helping lots of future Monster owners if you can gather up those S4 parts and get the individual parts weighed, and then post the results!

Jim G
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Weights of S4 top clamp/bars

nice to hear it all came together.
so... you've got the stock S4 bits laying around, right? would it be convenient to get accurate weights of the top triple and of the bar riser thingies? i'd be interested to know to add the info on www.ducatipipemod.com/s4/weight.html
cheers!
-strati
Weights:

Total setup: 72.7 oz. This includes the following stock S4 equipment: screws for bar ends (2), bar ends (2), screws to hold risers onto clamp (4), vibration damper pads (2), alloy pins used to locate the clamp onto the "U" shaped headlight holder (2), handlebars w/integrated risers (2), upper triple clamp (1). Does not include the 3 required pincher bolts.

Clamp only: 22.3 oz. This includes the clamp (1). Does not include the 3 required pincher bolts.

Handlebar/barend combo: 24.3 oz. This includes bar end and screw (1 each), vibration damper pad (1), alloy pin used to locate the clamp onto the "U" shaped headlight holder (1)

Barend: 5 oz. This includes bar end and screw (1 each)

Note: The discrepancy in total weight minus sum-of-parts-listed weight is the screws, which are not included in Handlebar/barend combo but are included in Total setup.

Weights measured on certified postal scale by uncertified personnel. Not responsible for any damage caused through the use of this information.

- SR
 

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Speed_Racer: THANK-YOU for doing the detailed weighing!! All your info will go into my database!

I see you are also a man of taste: you own a 74 Norton Commando. I had a 70 Norton Roadster in yellow, and consider it one of the most satisfying bikes I've owned, despite the fact that the exhaust pipes had to be WIRED on to stay in place, and the clutch cable had a short statistical half-life. Torque city, and opening the throttle was like opening the throttle on a large locomotive. Sent shivers through you!

I foolishly sold it to get one of those Honda 4-cylinder 750s, and have wished I had it back ever since.

Jim G
 
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