[Guest]

Has spacers in between the rearset and the mounts.
Now this may be a stupid question but I haven't taken a measuring tape out to check. Does this mean the right rearset is farther out than the left? Or is the frame etc adjusted to account for them. It's hard to tell by eyeballing it but it LOOKS like it's a bit farther out.

Once I remove the emmissions canister, is there anything stopping me from taking all of these out? It doesn't look like there's anything else in the way.

The reason I ask is that when riding, my left leg is perfectly comfortable but my right feels awkward at times. My girlfriend has the same complaint when riding on the back. Same leg.This is the only explanation I have for it.

 

[Guest]

i believe the spacers are solely to accomodate the evaporative emissions canister. only issue you may have with ditching those brackets is that i noticed on my S4 that the exhaust mounting hardware was specific to either side. don't know if that'll apply to the m1000 but i'm guessing it is and you may have to be a little creative there if you decide to remove the spacers.

when i installed the aftermarket rearsets and exhaust i ditched the spacers. in general i found the stock rearsets offered plenty of leg room but slightly uncomfortable because my knees were in and the pegs were a bit out for the pigeon toe effect.

 

[Guest]

the right-side exhaust hardware includes a spacer. ditch it and you should be fine i think (regarding mark's comments). aside from that, to successfully remount the footpeg assembly after removing the lower-spacers and emissions bracket, you'll need to either cut down the lower two mounting bolts or buy new ones shorter than the existing ones by the width of the spacers. if you try to reuse the existing ones without cutting them down, they'll bottom out in the thread before tightenning.

 

[Guest]

ok thanks. Are there any good tips for getting rid of that cannister? What do I need?

 

[Guest]

you need almost nothing. just a couple of 3/8" vacuum caps. you can find them at almost any autoparts store for a buck or so.
the cannister has three lines. follow one line to a "t-fitting" that splits into two lines. these go to the throttle bodies. loosen the hose clamps that secure the lines to the throttle bodies and pull the hoses off. reuse the same hose clamps to secure the 3/8" vacuum caps in the same location. another line comes from the gastank. you've got two options on what to do here. one option is to disconnect this from the cannister and then snake the hose from the tank down the back of the engine. you'll see there's another line going the same route. the other option involves the other line. see... the two lines are both vents off the tank. one is to allow fumes to escape and keeps the tank's internal pressure normal. this is the one that goes to the cannister. the other line is the overflow line incase you overfill your tank. you have the option rather than snaking the vent line down the back of the engine to splice it into the overflow line. here's where you can save even more $$.... scavenge the "t-fitting" that split the previous hose to the throttle bodies and use it to splice the vent and overflow lines together. use appropriate sized hose clamps if you can't salvage the clamps included.
the last line that comes off the cannister leads to.... NOTHING. it vents pressure to the atmosphere after the charcoal does it's work.

discard remaining crap-o-la.