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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased the Clear Alternatives integrated tail light/blinker kit, which came with resistors. I understand the resistors are used to slow the blink rate down due to the LED lights (I'm mechanically challenged). I've read mixed opinions on the DML as to if the resistors are necessary or not. I want my blinkers to blink at the normal (stock) rate. Do I install the resistors or not? What's been your experience? I plan on installing this kit along with a tail chop. If you're reading RBX, I'll be calling you for assistance in the near future. Thanks.
Luke
 

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The resistors are actually there to ... "bleed off voltage," for lack of better terminology.

If you don't put them in, the leds will blink faster and not last as long. (You'll be "overdriving" them, putting more voltage across them than they are designed for.)

Even with the resistors, they may blink faster, as they don't draw as much current, which is what trips the flasher.
 

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And my experience is the exact opposite of the above! I recently did a tail chop/Clear Alternatives conversion and my blinkers blink at the same rate as they did with the factory setup. Nice slow and steady. I think it really "just depends". Some have to use the resistors while others do not.
 

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I did my CA Tail and Front LEDs, The resistors that came with the kit still blinked too fast. I had to go to radio shack and get resistors with and different resistance and now all for corners blink @ the same rate as the factory turns. It was a little trial and error, but they all work great.
 

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Nottaracer said:
And my experience is the exact opposite of the above! I recently did a tail chop/Clear Alternatives conversion and my blinkers blink at the same rate as they did with the factory setup. Nice slow and steady. I think it really "just depends". Some have to use the resistors while others do not.
That is actually more of a difference between good LED signals, and cheap ones. The good ones already have the resistors built in.
 

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88BlueTSiQuest said:
That is actually more of a difference between good LED signals, and cheap ones. The good ones already have the resistors built in.
Well where does one get "the good ones"? I have had the CA LED board for a year and I've already broken my second resistor. A local electric supply shop sells the resistors and replacing them isn't difficult it's just time I'd rather be doing something else.

Does anyone sell an integrated LED board with built in resistors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well where does one get "the good ones"? I have had the CA LED board for a year and I've already broken my second resistor.

Wow, this is not encouraging. Thanks everyone for the feedback. I guess I'll do the trial and error method. Actually, I think I'll start by installing the CA kit with resistors.

Any one else have any feedback?

Luke
 

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Seems I've chimed my 2 cents on this topic before...

From what little I know, if you're running stock or "normal" (non-LED) front signals, you won't need the resistors. The normal bulbs will regulate the rate of the LED's. Put LEDs in the front, too, and you'll be triggering seizures in the cagers around ya.

As has been said elsewhere, some like the "look at me" factor of the rapid blinkers.

I still have old-school bulbs up front (though not the stock suppository signal assembly), and a normal blinkrate on my CA board in back. If I ever decide on front LEDs, then I'll have to cross the resistor / no-resistor bridge.
 

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I have had a clear alternatives tail light for 6,000 miles and no problems. If you only have LEDs on the rear (ie. the clear alternatives tail light) then you will probably not need the resistors. I don't not run with resisters. But if you also have LEDs on the front you will likely have to have the resistors. Just try it out without the resistors first. It won't hurt anything.
 

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someone correct me if i'm wrong, but nto all mosters even have flashers, my 06 s2r 1000 does not have a normal flasher, its in the ecu from what i understand.
only proof i have of this is that there is no clicking noise with my turn signal on.
that and the fact i have led front and rear turn signals with no resistors that blink perfectly normal.
 

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RBX QB said:
From what little I know, if you're running stock or "normal" (non-LED) front signals, you won't need the resistors. The normal bulbs will regulate the rate of the LED's. Put LEDs in the front, too, and you'll be triggering seizures in the cagers around ya.

I still have old-school bulbs up front (though not the stock suppository signal assembly), and a normal blinkrate on my CA board in back. If I ever decide on front LEDs, then I'll have to cross the resistor / no-resistor bridge.
Odd. I have the OEM front turn signals with the CA LED integrated board in back. When I don't use resistors, I get three normal flashes then fast blinking. :-[
 

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MonsterDuc said:
Odd. I have the OEM front turn signals with the CA LED integrated board in back. When I don't use resistors, I get three normal flashes then fast blinking. :-[
(Please note that I did start with "what little I know...")

I can't imagine the electronics for your 1000 are terribly different from my 800... Makes for inefficient mass production. As long as my bike doesn't explode, I guess.

Which just goes to prove one thing... Try it and see what happens. Let us know what you find out, LukyDuc.
 

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Ok - Just some input from someone with the same problem.

All the new monsters...lets just call them "with immobilizers", flash pretty well - when you replace the stock lamps with LEDs. I've seen this first hand. There isn't much you should want to do. They aren't slow, but aren't as fast as a "non-immobilized" monster w/o resistors.

If you have a monster that has a flasher relay unit: California Cycleworks sells a replace ment flasher relay, PLUG ANG PLAY! You don't have to do any bullshit wiring, soldering, crappy connections, or pull out your multimeter. Hook everything up, replace flasher relay. Done.

Enjoy riding.

http://ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/elec.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
wow, thanks again folks for even more info. I changed my mind and will try it with out resistors first since I have an '06 s2r 1000. Now it just a matter of making time for the tail chop/CA install. Can't wait, winter is for modding!
Luke
 

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Alright guys,

I'm getting ready to install my lightboard and chop the tail. I've read the discussion on Resistors or No. I would like to go w/o resistors first and see how it works. Unfortunately, my electrical "skilz" leave a bit to be desired and I am not sure exactly how the wiring works. I've got the light harness that formerly went to the tail turn signals marked, but don't quite understand how the gray and white wires connect directly to the yellow ones. I've seen the pictures of the set-up using the resistors, so I get that much. Just not sure how to do it without the resistors. Any help would be mucho appreciated. Also, did anyone actually use the connectors CA sends with the kit, or did everyone shrink wrap them? Thanks!

TheCheat
 

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Pretty simple connect without the resistors...
- Take the right signal live lead from the existing amber signal and connect it to the yellow wire at the right of the CA board. Just twist them for now... Then do the same for the left. Personally, I just abandoned the negative leads from both existing signals... they have no place to connect on the CA board.
- Now check the signals, after making sure that the twisted wires won't short on anything. Does the right signal work with the right, or are they reversed? That's the one thing I remember from the CA kit... both signal leads were the same, so I had to trial and error this part.
- Now that they're working... sky's the limit. I soldered mine to disconnects, in case I ever want to take the taillight off for mods. The fully encased bullet-type crimp connectors should work just as well... I just like the tighter wiring in the event water finds its way in there.

Now with the resistors... no clue... I don't have them mounted... but I know I've seen the diagram posted here before.
 

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That is the way to do it. I shrink wrapped mine aferwards. I also abandoned the negative wires on the bike. Actually I just used zip ties and tied then up real good in case I ever wanted to go back to the original. I have had the clear alternatives on for a year now, and I like them so I will probably not go back to the original, but the wiring is there just in case.

There have been some older threads on this tipic and I have seen pictures of some bikes with the resistors installed. Since they can get hot, I think the examples I saw used hose clamps and attached them under the seat on the frame.
 
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