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I just removed the giant emissions canister along the right hand side of my '03 M800. I don't know why I didn't do it earlier, it makes the bike look immensly better and only took about 30 minutes. Now I just have to get carbon side pods to replace the big bulging one without anything underneath...
 

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Nice...I want to remove mine too. Oh jesus, here starts the list...it's growing fast. You warned me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Michelle,

I have the correct size allen wrench to lossen up all the bolts on the rearsets if you want some help. The removal doesn't cost anything and just takes a few minutes to re-route the drain tubes. Swing by my desk if you want to see the difference...

-J
 

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Now I just have to get carbon side pods to replace the big bulging one without anything underneath...
Don't tell me you put the side covers back on??? Rip 'em off and leave 'em off! Try it out... you'll find it looks better without them.
 

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I pulled the emissions crap off of my Monster within a week of bringing her home. Sure helped to clear out the 'white window' problem. You should have seen all the nast white goo that came out of the breather hose!!

The only problem I had was driving all over town trying to find a 7/8" plug for the airbox.

-dj
 

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Hey Jordan,

I saw your bike and it looks great. Me next, me next...

Michelle
 
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For lack of a better explaination on this mod, do I just disconnect all the hoses and plug them?? I have had the replacement c/f pieces for almost 2 months now but I have been afraid to tear into this project. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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My bike just had one vent hose going from the bottom of the tank to the emissions canister. The canister then had 2 vent hoses connected to nothing but air. All I did is disconnect the vent hose that goes to the tank from the canister and left it hanging to vent whatever it needs to vent. Only part I needed which wasn't necessarily standard was the hex wrench to get the rearsets off. Luckily they have the sane size head as CycleCat's Fram Sliders, so I already bought one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Woops, forgot to mention that part. I left the bottom spacers in place to keep the stock spacing from the engine case. The spacers that were placed in the center and rear I removed. I do however need to get a shorter nut for the rear exhaust hanger as it is not tight now that I removed all the spacers. In fact, I've now been riding for 2 days with it loose, I should probably call the dealership right now and see if they have one...
 

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It really isn't that big of a deal. I did it on my 02 S4 and the biggest issue was getting a "Y" connector to link the drain tube and the vent tube together under the tank. You don't just want to plug all of the lines. I couldn't see paying $25 for the TPO kit.

You will need to add 2.5mm to the spacers behind the right rearset. Whether you make a new one that is 2.5mm thicker or put a washer in there, it is up to you and how you want it to look.

The throttle body tubing nipples are M5 thread. Pull out the stock nipples and replace w/ an M5 bolt. Get them less than 15mm long and they should work fine, just remember to use purple thread locker. Another option I have seen is to leave the stock nipples and just run one of the stock tubes, cut to length, from one to the other. This isn't as visually pleasing to me but it would work.

The tubing that you want to save is the current drain line from the tank. It is 6mm ID. I used a 6mm brass "Y" connector that I ordered from an automation EOAT supplier, it was less than $2.00 and it is the perfect fit. I think I have about $5.00 in the total removal project, the most costly thing is figuring out the right sized "Y" connector and bolts. Good Luck!
 

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Better yet, just remove all the spacers and cut down the lower bolts so they'll tighten correctly. That particular TPO kit is garbage....
 

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Magnus, I know you have those pretty new rearsets now, but with the original rearsets, won't you run into fitment problems with high-mount pipes (sils, specifically) and no spacers? I know that on mine, not only did I need to leave the spacers in the right side after de-smogging, I also needed to add spacers to the left side to make room for the pipe.
 

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good point, mikey... i was thinking low pipes because that's what i did on mine before i ditched both the pipes and the rearsets... ;)

not that anyone else noticed it, but it just bothered me having the right side rearset sitting further out for no good reason...
 
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Glad I took everbodys advice, it looks so much better with the carbon side panels rather than the stock peices. Thanks again!
 
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I yanked mine tuesday, erm, the emissions that is.

It took a few trips to the Homedepot and Autozone but its so easy its silly not to do it. The reward is good looks for the Duc.

On the subject of the rear set spacers. I thought about custom shims and such but instead I just took the bracket/cover over the evap can to Home Depot and found an aluminium washer the same thickness as the bracket. I ended up with a 1/2" washer with a slightly larger hole for the bolt. Works great and is totally unnoticable.

Total Cost? Minus the T handle allen wrench set that I needed to buy anyway.

3pak vac plugs $1.00
Y splitter $1.50
2 alu washers $0.12

I've not yanked the other emission piece since I need to make a bracket for the rectifier.

There are a number of good tutorial on the web but for those who wondered the procedure.

Remove the seat and prop the tank, careful, dont have a full tank when you do this ;-)
Unbolt the right side plastic pod
Use a beefy 8mm allen wrench to unbolt the rearsets top two bolts (anyone know the torque spec of this?).
Remove the whole bracket/can.
There are two nipples coming off the tank near the seat. One hose attached to this and runs down the bike and exits ahead of the swing arm (at least on my 2k2 750D) the other runs to the top of the evap can. On the bottom of the can are two nipples, one runs up the right side of the bike and just kinda hangs there. Removing this gets rid of 2 ugly tie straps! The other hose runs along the right side and connects to a T splitter and then runs to two fittings on the throttle bodys. Yank all this out. I put a Vac cap on each throttle body fitting and re-used the hose clamp.
I cut the two tank hosts just below the tank edge and inserted the Y split, then reconnected the lower hose that exits ahead of the swing arm.
Toss all these extra parts into a box.
Add your spacer solution to the rearset and bolt it down.
Crank and go.
I did notice that after removal my bike idled for crap till it warmed up but seems fine now.

I can't say if it added any power or improved anything other than good looks.
 
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just a note of clarification. the bottle under the seat that the regulator mounts to is not an emissions bit. it's purpose is to create a "closed loop" from the crank case to the airbox which in theory will create a vacuum effect to suck pressure out of the crank case -> more power. realistically, i think the rewards of weight-loss + better looks far outweighs the smidgen of power you may or may not lose.

if you want, when you pull that whole bottle/hose business off the bike, you CAN mount the regulator directly to the frame with one of the bolts that holds the bottle on:

http://www.ducatipipemod.com/s4/mods/breather/breather03.jpg

stays put just fine with a dab of blue locktite. what i've done since then, for better fling-coverage and a bit of "bling", is the following... y'know the plastic underseat wheel-well thing that goes from the crankcase bottle to the taillight? toss it. i picked up a small sheet of aluminum diamondplate from lowes for about $25. made some measurements, and cut out an underseat pan from it with a jigsaw. drilled some holes to simplify zip-tieing cables, mounted the regulator on the underside to catch some wind and mounted the PCIII on the upside under the seat. good stuff cheap! i'll post a pic sooner or later ;)
 
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