[Guest]

I installed my RaceTech Rebuilt Showas (early type) yesterday.

They were spares I picked up on eBay a while back that I sent out last month for the full work-up (after my slapping highside I decided to stop ignoring how weak the front end was)

They did the seals, bushings, gold valves and proper springs for my carcass weight and a black hard anodyze on the uppers.

WOW , first there's no more diving when I grab a handful of the front 4 pad, narrow band brakes.

Super slick action/stiction. The anodyze job came out beautifully. The bike has considerably "tightened up" in that the sliders are damping and rebounding properly....when I got on the throttle, the fork tube extended travel wasn't as exaggerated as was the case with the (old 20k miles) original stock tubes.

The new tubes ingested the bumps in the road surface gracefully and yet managed to provide an excellent sense of "feel" at the same time. Not the sloppy wallowing I had before....

 

[FastKatanBoy]

$688 for the rebuild. IS that kinda expensive? I was think it was only $300-400 for seals ($25), valves($150), bushings and springs ($120) and labor.

 

[Guest]

Just curious did you look into putting on superbike forks? I have seen them for 200 plus the triple clamp from Cycle Cat 300, and then you have a set of adjustable forks. I am not sure if you have to purchase another wheel or brake components, anyone with experience at this?

 

[Guest]

Ya know....you never know til ya know.....it's the same with tuning, what seems fine pales to what can be.....

I have done race tech in my stock showas, and now have SBK's on.
I bought the gold nitrated Showa SBK's, plus the C Cat triple and don't forget to add on 53mm clips to the cost.
There is still work to be done with the SBK's. I think if considering SBK's you might want to allow for the cost of having them
reworked, rather than thinking the cost is just in the parts. But maybe I am wrong about that, as I can only speak from experience.
In my case the stock spring is too stiff and the comp damping is all the way out and still to hard. So I will need new springs and prolly valves in the SBK's. The route I am going is to throw in an Ohlins kit in the SBK's.
So there's another + or - $400.00.

 

[Guest]

Good input Retro, curious to why you went from the race tech upgrade to the superbike forks. Was it just the adjustability? Thanks

 

[Guest]

$688 for the rebuild.

 

[Guest]

charges

2 Pts US1 Fluid 24.98

Rebuild Forks ST Valved: 135.00

Gold Valve s2043 154.99

.95 KG Springs 109.99

Oil Seals 21.98

Dust Seals 19.98

Inner Bushings 19.98

Outer Bushings 21.98

Hard Anodyzing 150.00

Shipping Insurance 5.60

Shipping 22.56

 

[Guest]

Good input Retro, curious to why you went from the race tech upgrade to the superbike forks.

 

[mnztr]

I had the same experience installing the hyperpro spring kit. Dive was pretty much eliminated and it is still very supple over bumps. I went Hyperpro because I wanted a F/R solution.

M

 

[sivan]

The spring rate chart on the Race Tech site shows the measured spring rate for 748 forks to be slightly above 1. This rate would work well for someone around 270lb or a lighter racer. In contrast, a rider around 180lb needs a .85 spring, which is basically on the other extreme of the range Race Tech is selling.

If money's no object, sending the forks to a tuner is great (or just getting Ohlins forks?), but starting with the right spring makes more sense.