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So 1 unit replaces BOTH modules? I'm guessing the module comes with a plug for the unit with replaceable plugs on the other end to fit our bikes?

Brad if you get some down in Aus I'm keen for sure.
 

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I am interested provided I can figure out how to make it work on my bike. Programable advance and a rev limiter would be sweet on on my monster with split fcr's... Is there a way to mount a tps on the fcr's?
 

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you can use a manifold vacuum (map) sensor to be a psuedo tps - approx 5v at zero vacuum (wot) which is the same as a tps. that's what i'll be using, as i already have the map sensor set up.

if someone does go group buy i'd still have to get it shipped to aust from the usa so i might get it direct. if anyone in aust wants them i could do that as a group buy of sorts, but i'd have to run credit cards thru work with the service fee added or the paypal fee added.

anyone in aust interested let me know very soon. brad at moto-one.com.au
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Is there a way to mount a tps on the fcr's?
There is a TPS for FCR`s. Mine are converted from a Kwak IL4 and had it.


So 1 unit replaces BOTH modules?
Yes.


I'm guessing the module comes with a plug for the unit with replaceable plugs on the other end to fit our bikes?
Yes, mine did f e.
But you must stress that so you get that, some haven`t. Otherwise not too hard to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Internet for me is about sharing, especially when you have specific interest like motorcycles etc.

I think this tuning gadget TCI-P4 I (and most of all my friend T Hauge) found is a very useful thing for us carbs fans. I would surely have appreciated a " Good find! [thumbsup]" or "Thx f sharing :)" post.
Maybe I`ve turned into a grumpy old fart after turning 50 this summer
BUT,

I do not feel like contributing to this thread anymore.

GreenMonster
 

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Come'on now, you know you're appreciated (and 50 makes you a young fart). I've already exchanged an email with these people & will also share my experiences as I go along. There have been several people who have "almost" made a product like this but so far, these are the only people selling it & you are the only one who has used one.
Thanks. [clap]
 

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+1 Thanks for passing along this awesome find. I've been looking for something like this for quite some time but figured it was a hopeless cause. I can't wait to get mine and schedule some dyno time to get it and the FCR's dialed in. ;D
 

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Greenie,
Thanks for the information and the technical feedback. I really appreciate it! [thumbsup]
 

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Discussion Starter #32
OK, guys, grumpiness is over (for this time... >:D ;)), it only makes your life worse.
Thx f respons y`all ( & PM, Norm ). :)


Latest news is from a Danish friend w a stock Paso 750. TCI-P4 works fine on that, too.
He`s the one who`s been teaching me about base advance (tough job I tell ya... ::)) and he`s tested
different settings there. According to him b adv do matter and makes transition idle to small engine load (correct term?) easier when set right. My testing is maybe a bit special since I have the wrong throttle slides, 2.0 instead of 1.5 ( larger cutout ).He hasn`t Dyno`d but smooth running engine.

Anyone who`s got constructive mail answers from Ignitech yet?
 

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i got a price for getting 3 sent to aust, plus he sent me the d column for buying lots at once. can't recall what it was now. i think they'll be au$170 or so each landed out here - i forget now, it's all at work. 85 euro per unit i think it was plus postage and customs.

i'm going to emial him an order on monday, so then i have to work out how to pay him and we'll go from there.

was there something about putting a resistor in the pick up circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
was there something about putting a resistor in the pick up circuit?
Yup. the pu signal made the ign unit give very erratic idle. Ignitech suggested a 100 Ohm resistor, but no explanation. I surely would like to know why.
I ended up w 400 Ohm (tested 100-200-300-400-500). In parallell over the two wires on pu signal from engine to unit.
Doesn`t seem to affect performance over idle what I`ve noticed.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Quite simple MacGyver manouvre just for testing ;):

Bend resistance to an U. Solder a little to each end to make it thicker.
Press each leg into 2pin connector, one on each wire, on ign unit from connectors rear side.
Makes sure it has contact and not is loose. Secure w gaffers tape.

Will solder properly later. Didn`t wanna cut anything til test period is over and when I will give the unit a good placing, like under seat.
 

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i have placed an order for the aust guys who contacted me. if anyone else wants to be in it email me today.

greenmonster said:
Quite simple MacGyver manouvre just for testing ;):

Bend resistance to an U. Solder a little to each end to make it thicker.
Press each leg into 2pin connector, one on each wire, on ign unit from connectors rear side.
Makes sure it has contact and not is loose. Secure w gaffers tape.

Will solder properly later. Didn`t wanna cut anything til test period is over and when I will give the unit a good placing, like under seat.
that makes sense. i've got a few extra connectors coming so i can make a couple of plug in resistor looms to try. we do something similar to ducati tachos to make them work again.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Made 2 more ign curves after Dyno and now I am almost satisfied. For now.... >:D
After 3 months/some 34 curves, my main impressions are:

1. Base advance do matter. Follow intructions in TCI-P4 manual. Easier start, better idle,
better off idle/low throttle response.

2. Main advantages are:
a. Overall smoothness, driveability.
b. The whole ignition is better, therefore the feel of a big vitamin injection.
b. Throttle response, as good as a well tuned injection bike..
d. Torque in 5/6th gears. Soo good.
e. Anyone w the the OEM Kokusan boxes will have a better bike w just switching to this.
Just copy base settings and there you are. When a OEM unit breaks, just replace w this
for a 1/6th of the price of two OEM units. It`s simply a better ignition.

And see my first post.



One more MacGyver manouvre is necessary if you are not working w the unit on the bike since it has no separate power input:

On the bike it`s getting power to function from battery when turning ignition "ON".
If you you want to work w it on your home PC, you need 12V power supply.
I used a 12V power supply from a guitar pedal PSU, it doesn`t need much current so I guess any will do as long as it`s 12V. Mine has 200mA. Look at wiring of ign unit and simply find which pin has + &- supply.
I connected via the 3pin connector w 3 wires from the unit: Red +, blue ground.
Works perfect.

Can`t wait for all the result from www, do share :).
I have not understood how I link my ign file to this forum, sorry.
 

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Keeping an eye on this one, especially now that I just lost a coil. Thanks to greenmonster for the post and updates [thumbsup]
 
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