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monsta said:
so I took the next path of lease resistance and stretched the old ign module rubber mount around it.
I was gonna do that, but I swear the thing would break before it stretched that far.
 

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ducpainter said:
[minor threadjack]
Any of you folks selling your stock modules......cheap? :p
[end]
I might do, if this turns out to be a permanent install. I won't promise though as we'd both hate it if I had to pull out for whatever reason. But I will certainly consider your post ducpainter.

ducalex said:
aren't you supposed to all be named Bruce? ???
>:D
[laugh]
- Chris
 

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I'm thinkin' this thread is about ready for the FAQ file. This is some seriously good **** in here!
I thought I was pretty much done modding, but Dynacoils and this ingition are sounding pretty tempting. Now if only I had disposable income :p

Maybe we link it in and let the discussion continue ;)
 

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monsta said:
I tried the top of the air filter but the tank wouldn't shut... :)
so I took the next path of lease resistance and stretched the old ign module rubber mount around it.
man, i didn't even think of that. i used two zip ties to the lh box mount to make it work. i feel so silly now, having wasted so much time . [laugh]

there's a scene from a classic fred gassit (in it he's a young cop who mets batman who then shows him how a zero tolerance on crime works wonders) where batman says "let's go for a fat on the bat kwaka" meaning "let's go for a ride". funny as. almost as good as "fred's little red scooter", with the blokes jumping out of the dozer before the old steam engine comes crashing down. funny as ****, makes me laugh every time.
 

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brad black said:
there's a scene from a classic fred gassit (in it he's a young cop who mets batman who then shows him how a zero tolerance on crime works wonders) where batman says "let's go for a fat on the bat kwaka" meaning "let's go for a ride". funny as. almost as good as "fred's little red scooter", with the blokes jumping out of the dozer before the old steam engine comes crashing down. funny as ****, makes me laugh every time.
ahhhh... good ol fred gassitt... first page i turn to every fortnight! :)

I bought a belkin usb to 9 pin com port connector yesterday for 80$ (nearly grabed me chest when they told me the price) and the damn thing dont work! it installed on com22 but the sparker program only goes to com 20. anyone know a fix?
 

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Discussion Starter #207
anyone know a fix?
Sorry, no. But since software works even w OS W95 I guess it`s written according to
pre USB programming. But maybe easy fix for someone who really knows PC`s?

I have a spare A9000/1.1 module f sale.

Really frustrating riding season is over here so I can`t contribute.... :'(
 

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monsta said:
ahhhh... good ol fred gassitt... first page i turn to every fortnight! :)

I bought a belkin usb to 9 pin com port connector yesterday for 80$ (nearly grabed me chest when they told me the price) and the damn thing dont work! it installed on com22 but the sparker program only goes to com 20. anyone know a fix?
Try plugging it into a different USB port. Might work :-\
 

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buy an old laptop with a serial port. pretty cheap nowadays.

there can be quite a few issues with stuff like this and USB ports. to do with baud rates, stuff i don't understand, but sometimes they try to talk too fast or too slow to each other and it falls over.
 

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i recommend a toshiba portege, one of the OLD ones.. 2 lbs.. i got one for the Cessna.. 6 inch video screen, tiny chicklet keyboard
 

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it just needs to grab another com port, trying another usb port may work, otherwise, you can force the install on a particular com port... I forget how you do that at the moment, but i'm sure you can google it. Trying another usb port might end up putting you on an even higher com port though... in any case..


Ok, my update.

I just installed mine as well with a bunch of zipties. I first put it behind the battery, but then realized it was pretty warm back there next to the vert cyl head, so I moved it to the front right behind the cone filters. I had some of that storm door weather stripping foam stuff hanging around, so I put that on the back of the unit to reduce vibration induced damage:

behind install:



front install:
foam:









As you can see, if you have the dynacoils, you can't fit the unit next to the coils so you gotta find another location.

Something else to mention, I'd recommend keeping either the red cover over the serial connector or tape it, but make sure you put a piece of tape or something over the cover if you keep it to keep the sucker on.

Initial impressions with manufacturer's base settings are favorable [thumbsup]

Note that I did a full on cleaning of the carbs, reset everything, sync, idle set (to 1200), etc before installing.

immediately on start, I noticed that the idle immediately settled out to about 1100 rpm, it was a bit odd to see it drop down, but it was unbelievably steady and the bike sounded very good, no hesitation or wanting to shut off.

All my testing is seat of the pants so take it for what you will:

1st-3rd gear pulls felt roughly about the same, but the bike was noticably smoother, MAYBE pulled a hair stronger, but again, roughly the same.

5th gear pulls from 80mph - 110mph were VERY noticably better! Torque came on strong and the bike really wanted to keep going.

I'm not quite sure what I need to do at this point to change the map, so a little bit of guidance would be helpful.

Oh, and for those of you hooking up laptops, do yourself a favor and either buy a USB-SERIAL converter (some don't work depending on what chip is on the inside of the box and who programmed it for what, for what it's worth, I bet most of them are using FTDI chips, which are a little flaky, a firmware update would probably be in order) OR get yourself a serial line extension so you don't have to have the laptop sitting right next to the bike (assuming you have a serial port on your computer, which I don't! :'( luckily I think the converter at work isn't being used at the moment >:D )
 

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^^^^ Woah! Great work and advice hiero! [thumbsup] 8). Spesh on the covering of the port!


CRASH! said:
I'm thinkin' this thread is about ready for the FAQ file. This is some seriously good nuts in here!
I thought I was pretty much done modding, but Dynacoils and this ingition are sounding pretty tempting. Now if only I had disposable income :p

Maybe we link it in and let the discussion continue ;)
Crash, I have to +1 your idea for the FAQ. Im very much a learner and found this thread fantastic! - Chris
 

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i pulled the terminals out of the main connector the other day and they look identical to the ones for the amp weather pack connectors - like the rear brake switch, 4 wire headlight connector, fuel pump, etc. we get them locally from wurth, so they're not hard to get.

so i can run my map sensor wiring in now easily.
 

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I hate to do this but the unit I just bought from eonan is for sale. $165 shipped (what I paid for it)

I never even put the CD into the drive.
 

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i bought a cheap serial - usb convertor on the weekend and installed it today. simple enough even i could do it. tried it on both my desktop and laptop. both needed the TCIP4 software set to COM5. no idea why, didn't know i had 5 coms, but i'm guessing that's just what it installs itself as.

both read and programmed the unit just fine. well, i haven't started it again yet, so theoretically it's fine.

below is what i intend running next ride, slight variation from what i've been running. as i understand it from what jan has emailed me, the advance under the lowest point is the base advance, which i have set to 6. the idea behind 12 @ 800 rpm is that it might help it idle better when cold, but will drop back to idle @ 8 when it's hot. the 38 at high rpm is just a guess to compensate for the low VE at that point. don't think i've had the chance to rev it out yet - the only riding i do is commuting, with a shortish freeway bit in the middle and currently a fair bit of road works. my favourite "see if it'll wheelie zone is now reduced speed and messy.

seems to be a lot smoother at low rpm, esp when cold. less of the puuuuh - wait - wait - wait - whammo that shits me so much. might even be able to drop another pilot jet size to reduce very low throttle richness.

800 1200 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000 9000

12 8 20 28 35 35 35 35 38 38

you can open the maps as a text file, but they have the tps component lines that obviously aren't used if the tps function is not set. i've worked out how my map sensor relates to the possible tps boundary and break point settings and will wire it in this week hopefully. i'll also shift my tacho signal to the units output and clean up some wiring there as well as the tech edge logger input signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #218
the idea behind 12 @ 800 rpm is that it might help it idle better when cold, but will drop back to idle @ 8 when it's hot.
And does it work, does it idle better?

Would second RPM setting at 1500/8 help even more than 1200/8 so 2000/20 doesn`t start to influence too early?

Your bike has a stock compression 750 engine, right?

Any plans of dynoing w different ign settings?
 

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to help you out with the com settings brad, if the unit is not recognized further on com 5, it's fairly easy to check what com port it IS on by opening up 'computer management' or 'device manager' and look under the 'Ports (COM & LPT)' tab.

To find computer management on WinXP, right click on 'My Computer' and click on 'Manage.' From there, click on 'Device Manager' on the left column.

Or you can right click on 'My Computer' and then go to 'Properties' and under the Hardware tab, click the 'Device Manager' button.
 

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One question regarding the setups at each RPM. I read above that you can set the advance at each interval, but that there are only a few pulldowns available, so in essence you have to pull down each RPM level and set the advance. Can someone please explain what happens if you simply set (for example) the 3000rpm tab to (for example) 30 degrees, what happens to 3100rpms? Is there a graphical function that will show you what the curve looks like?

DS
 
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