I never said they were pretty... Just good for decisively smoking Harleys, if that's your thing...But it's so.... ugly....:frown
just curious, how do you bend valves by adding an air filter and exhaust?I ran with my CW slipon for 6 months without a remap/flash of the ECU. Bent a valve and while they had it I had them remap it. Took all the pops out, has ran great ever since (over a year ago).
No idea. When I took the bike in for 7500 mile service I had one bent. Not attributing it to the exhaust of course, just mentioning that I had them flash the ECU while they had it in for a bent valve replacement.just curious, how do you bend valves by adding an air filter and exhaust?
Since we are speaking of a 1100 evo, how would you do pod filters and stacks on it? Very interested to see pics/forum thread/specific aftermarket link?My Top Five Mods (I didn't stop here)
3. Pod Filters w Velocity Stacks
Here's what I'm using on my S2R with an 1100s engine installed. Not sure whether you can do it on an EVO.Since we are speaking of a 1100 evo, how would you do pod filters and stacks on it? Very interested to see pics/forum thread/specific aftermarket link?
Maybe you are thinking MWR, although their 1100 evo fitment is not a pod filter nor a stack?
No fit on a Monster 1100 evo. Main difference being ABS module taking up the space needed for the stacks and pods.Here's what I'm using on my S2R with an 1100s engine installed. Not sure whether you can do it on an EVO.
A few more cents2 cents:
-Pods and velocity stacks are a waste of money imo because it destroys all your low end and a big chunk of midrange
-lightened flywheel is not worth doing in the big displacement monsters if you are gonna be riding this bike stop and go, it will get frustrating especially if you also did an air box delete.
- 14 tooth front sprocket is cheap, but not great if doing highway riding. I recommend leaving the front stock (15) and getting a quick change rear carrier and an assortment of sprockets. I love a 43 tooth for around town, but change to a 39 or 40 if im going on a highway trip to keep the revs down, conserve fuel and keep high rpm drone down
-wheels are absolutely the best bang for the buck. Bike will accellerate faster, turn in faster and also look better to boot...haha i have OZ Piega for my last few bikes, BST is nice if you can afford it, Carrozzeira is also a nice option.
- suspension setup is always overlooked too. Spend some time dialing in the bike and some track days too if you have that option
-exhaust to me is now.just noise and looks. The factory tunes these bikes very well and there really isnt much improvement for a full system for daily riding as most are designed for WOT racing situations. Then there is the tuning side as well. The DP ecu with termi exhaust is ok, but to get the best result you should get something like a PC5 and an Auto Tuner (dual O2) to really get it dialed in.
Chasing hp on these 2v bikes is a cost prohibitive endevour. If you want a lot more power, just buy a different bike. The more you mod, the more you compromise efficiency. That can end up costing more in the long run when you burn valves due to a shitty tune or grenading a bottom end because all the "bolt on" internal mods are not perfectly balanced to work with each other.
I have spend A LOT of $ over the past 5 years and now have a very different perspective on this type of thing. Take a realistic look at what kind of riding you are doing and if this is really the right bike. A 100 hp bike IS enough if you learn to ride it. Comparing to Harleys is not a real comparisson as that bike is made for a completely different purpose.
Just a little food for thought.