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Discussion Starter #1
I'm popped off my stock pressure plate in favor of a new stm jobbie... how do i remove the inner piece out of the stock unit so that i can install it in the new one? The outer ring is definately not metallic so I don't want to destroy it getting it out. I would guess that it would be removed by pushing it inward...

Here's a pic:

 

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It's just a bearing, press or tap it out.
 

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Actually you are looking at two pieces - The innermost black object should push out with finger pressure. Mine usually stays on the pushrod instead of in the bearing. The outer part is the bearing(with the bluish seal visible). I would not reinstall it after driving it out! Best practice in any type of vehicle usually dictates replacing the release bearing when the clutch is serviced if it has more than a few thousand miles on it. If you tap or drive it out of the original pressure plate, it will probably be junk, anyway. I just changed my release bearing last night, and the old one wasn't servicable after tapping it out.

Get a new bearing from Chris at CA-Cycleworks on this forum for cheap and just swap the little pushrod cap thingy over to it. You won't have to worry about your release bearing for a good while. If you have any doubts about driving a bearing in or out, take it to a machine shop and let them press it in for you. Usually cheap like $10 or minimum shop charge.

Mark J
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey, thanks Mark. You may have saved me from some serious damage there. I just ordered a throwout bearing from Chris.

The stock plate stays on a bit longer...
 
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although i install new bearings with the pressure plates i powdercoat, i've had stockers drive out with really minimal effort and they look more than fine to reinstall.
but i bought a stack of bearings in bulk so it's really not worth risking it for other peoples' parts.
to get that pushrod pin out, if it doesn't come out with the push of a finger, lay the pressure plate flat face-side-up on a workbench or floor whatever... and use a 3/8 drive socket extention as a drift to tap it out. it'll definately come out before the bearing does. to install in the next bearing, smear some grease on the outside and tap it in with a ballpean hammer.


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additional note,
oh yeah... remember when you install the next plate (or reinstall this one), to make sure the alignment's correct. the stocker's got a hashmark on one of the spring wells that aligns with a hashmark on one of the clutch hub spring-posts. the aftermarket bit should have something similar as well.
another note is for the spring retention bolts... use a dab of blue locktite and ONLY HAND-TIGHTEN THEM... screw them in until they bottom out and that's it!!! you'd be surprised at how LITTLE force it takes to snap those suckers...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
oh yeah... remember when you install the next plate (or reinstall this one), to make sure the alignment's correct. the stocker's got a hashmark on one of the spring wells that aligns with a hashmark on one of the clutch hub spring-posts. the aftermarket bit should have something similar as well.
Thanks Strati. I had no idea about that.... I'll have to take another look in the morning to see if i understand. Are you saying that there's only one correct way to install the pressure plate instead of six (there are six spring wells.)
 

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Hey Strati - ditto thanks from me. I've got one of those STM plates on order and the Haynes manual doesn't include all this great detail.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right you are... what would happen if it wasn't lined up I wonder?

I don't see any notches or any other type of indicator on the STM pressure plate.
 
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i think if you installed the p'plate out of alignment, your clutch would drag slightly at some points and slip slightly at others. wouldn't be catastrophic but would be one of those "something's not quite right" situations.
does the stm have any marking at all? on either side? maybe just a small burr or something? never seen one personally aside from web-pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Upon closer inspection, there is a small red dot (indentation) on the inside of the STM pressure plate underneath one of the wells. I'm no Sherlock Holmes, but that's gotta be it.

Thanks Strati.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got my throwout bearing from ca-cycleworks... tapped it in with a hammer and the pressure plate is in. Thanks guys.
 
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strai, can you please take a pic of this hash mark. I am lost and my clutch is fooked
 
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here's a pic of the removed p'plate:

http://www.ducatipipemod.com/s4/mods/clutch/plate03.jpg

see the triangle just out of the spring well opposite my thumb? that's the spring well that alignes with the clutch hub post with the hash mark on it.

sorry, but i don't have any close-ups of the hashmark. but see the dab of yellow paint on the hub in that same pic? the hash mark is on the end of the spring post. dunno if you can make out the hashmark on it. if you look at the spring posts, it's very obvious. one out of the six has a groove or hashmark worked into the face of it. this is what you're looking for.
 
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thank you so much strati !!!

This morning when I woke up , I was ready to try out my new clutch plate (painted) got on my biek, and the clutch lever was stuck. I must have done something. So first thing I am planning on doing is take it all off and check for this mark.

Thanks again !!! Had to ride in the 620 ie. today. what a difference from the S4.

Oh hey, do you know if I can swap displays, if I wanted to go digital between the two ?
 

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The first time that I did a clutch I missed that little note about the marks in the Haynes manual. The clutch just slipped and wouldn't fully engage. I took the pressure plate off, aligned it correctly, and everything was just peachy.

--Fillmore
 
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