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Discussion Starter #1
Are there any special tools needed for installing a new pressure plate? From what i can see you need to:

remove the slave cylinder and pull out that rod
remove the clutch cover
remove the 6 bolts holding the plate on

Am I missing any part of the process?

thanks
 

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I didn't even mess with the slave cylinder when I swapped mine out w/ an STM piece. Just took the cover off, loosened the bolts in order (top, bottom, left right) gently pulled the plate off and did the swap. There was a "spacer "(don't know the official name) on the rod that I had to press out of the stock pressure plate bearing and put back on the rod but it was pretty straight forward. Make sure you don't have any extra pieces left over kind of thing. When re torquing the 6 bolts, DO NOT OVER TORQUE. I hand tightened mine to what I am guessing less than 3 ft/lbs. Strati's page is always a great reference.

http://www.ducatipipemod.com/s4/mods/clutch/
 
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no need to remove the slave cylinder. here's what i've done:

1- remove clutch cover (duh)

2- unbolt clutch spring retaining bolts as you'd unbolt a wheel from your car. alternate up, down, left, right, etc... to unload the pressure evenly.

3- set aside the clutch spring retaining bolts, caps and the clutch springs.

4- TAKE NOTE OF THE PRESSURE PLATE'S ORIENTATION. that is... notice that one of the spring-wells has a triangle cast into the rim of it. notice that the clutch hub post that the spring retaining bolt goes into at that spring-well has a hash-mark across it. these are supposed to jive.

5- pull the pressure plate off the clutch assembly. pull straight out as the clutch rod may be siezed to the throw-out pin. don't worry... if it is, pull it allllll the way out of the motor.

6- set the pressure plate face-down on a rag and yank the rod STRAIGHT OUT from it. regrease the rod with some clean engine oil and set aside on a clean surface.

7- the throw-out pin is likely siezed in the throw-out bearing... to remove, set the pressure plate face UP on a rag and tap the pin out INWARD. i use a 3/8 socket extension as a drift but anything about that size is fine to use.

8- throw-out bearings are cheap. i'd recommend using a new on on your replacement pressure plate, but if it's not convenient, you can yank the existing one without drama. with the pressure plate still face UP on that rag, i use the socket-side of a 3/8 socket extension as a drift to drive the bearing INWARD.

9- press the new (or harvested) throw-out bearing into the new pressure plate. i use a socket that's the same diameter as the bearing as a drift to avoid applying any stress to the rubber seals. do this with the pressure plate face DOWN on a rag. you'll notice that the sound coming from tapping the bearing in changes tone when it's fully seated.

10- seat the throw-out pin into the bearing with the pressure plate face down.

11- grease up the end of the throw-out rod and insert it into the throw-out pin.

12- slide the assembly back into the engine until it bottoms out and the pressure plate is flush against the clutch pack. NOTE on orientation that your pressure plate will have some sort of mark on it that should be aligned with the clutch hub post with the hash-mark on it (equivalent to what's described in step 4 for the stock unit).

13- install the clutch springs, retaining caps, retaining bolts. use just a drop of blue locktite on the retaining bolts. install just as you uninstalled (alternating up, down, etc...) and do yourself a favor... screw the bolts in ONLY UNTIL THEY BOTTOM OUT!!! do NOT torque them down. they snap VERY EASILY and drilling them out can be a mother so just hand snug and have faith in the locktite.

14- reinstall the clutch cover and go for a ride to make sure all's good!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the tips, I printed them out.

I was looking at the cyclecat billet pressure plate, it already has a bearing in it, but it's kinda pricey $$$$ but daaaaaamn it looks really nice! ;D

I called 4 powdercoaters in my area and they all want 3-5 weeks to get the process done and the cheapest one was $50 and 4 weeks lead time. :eek:

Is that normal turn around time for powdercoating?


http://www.cyclecat.com/PP1-1.htm
 

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Powdercoaters in my area usually have a minimum charge around $40 or $50 so you are better off to do more than one part. To put things in perspective to do two sets of rear sets, a top triple clamp, two heat shields and about 10 other parts is $100 and lead time is less than 1 week.

If you can get your bearing pressed out and also get a new one to replace it with, $40 is reasonable for the coating but if you have other parts you would like the same color you might be able to include them for the same price.
 

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Yep. $10 it was, and I gotta say, it turned out reeeal purty.



Got no less than 4 comments on it today. I'm a proud papa. ;D More pics here
 

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Back when Strati was a powdercoatin' fool, he pc'ed my stock springs and cups in a contrasting color (to the red he put on the PP).

So if the springs aren't toast, this is a good option.

Perhaps JH can price that service out too.

'cause I'm not at home with my photos, this is the best I can give you:

 
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