[Guest]

Hi Guys
I bought a Rizoma vented clutch cover and a billet pressure plate. The new pressure plate did not come with a bearing. And the old one is in there pretty good. I did not put much effort into getting the bearing out. When I took the plate off a long shaft was attached to the bearing and pressure. I assume it is a push rod coming from the slave cylinder. But I am not mechanic. So what do I know.
Anyway. Here are my questions.
1. Can I remove the bearing without breaking it?
2. How and what do I need to remove it?
3. Am I a big idiot for not being able to do this?

 

[Guest]

Dennis,

Hit strati's page, I believe he has some info on this.....


I also did a search on Yahoo and found some interesting reading on this....

 

[MagnusVer]

I was told that it's possible to remove the bearing and reuse it, and I was actually able to get it out.

 

[Guest]

I am not sure who makes it. I got it from Spareshack. Instead of trying another hugger I got the pressure plate in black with red retainer caps and your Rizoma Windowed vented clutch cover.
I could not even get the push rod from the bearing. But I have track days tomorrow and SUnday and did not want to risk breaking anything.

 

[MagnusVer]

Sounds spiffy, post some pics when you get it together.

 

[elpato]

can't comment on getting the rod out as I have not done this mod yet. But for bearing removal put the plate on something solid with a hole where your bearing is going to drop out. Next get a socket that fits around the outer diameter of the bearing give a few taps (hit it) and it will pop out without damaging the bearing. I am a bearing removal machine and this is the method I most commonly use. Unless I am tucked up in the hell hole of an airplane and time and space are limited.

 

[Guest]

Dennis, mine was stuck also and I just grabbed the small center rod and wiggled back and forth until is slowly started to slide out. The damn thing is lubed to hell so its slippery. Once the rod is out I was told you can use a punch and wood block to remove the bearing and then press it in the reverse manner. I did not have to do this part so I can't tell you if it worked. Good luck and let us know how things turned out.

PICTURES MAN

 

[ducman851]

Before the "whacking" commences take a heat gun and heat up the area around the bearing on the pressure plate to get the bearing out. This also works for installing them as well, I dont kow how the anodized plate will react to heat though, but I guess if you dont get carried away with it. Another tip is to place the bearing n the freezer for several hours before youo install it in the new plate. That and the heating make them almost fall in with very little of the "whacking"

 

[elpato]

yeah but whacking is more fun. weakling scared of a little smacky smacky?

 

[ducman851]

yeah but whacking is more fun. weakling scared of a little smacky smacky?

Nope not hardly, but if 20+ years of working on cars professionally has taught me one thing, its to work smarter not harder. I really enjoy whacking things (not that you guys

 

[DTMsurf]

Did you pull the push rod all the way out through the clutch side? If so you should inspect the two rubber seals on the slave end. These can be damaged when pulling it out from that side. You will also want to put the rod back in (cleaned and lubed) through the slave side NOT THROUGH THE CLUTCH SIDE! Chris (ca-cycleworks) and I had this conversation when I picked up my Yoyodyne slave and he said you can damage the seals and ultimately the pin bearings by putting the push rod in through the clutch basket side. After pulling it and checking everything out I can see what he meant. The rod should come out of the throw out bearing without too much trouble but they do like to stick.

 

[elpato]

good knowledge for the future as mine is on the way. Thanks in advance.

Rich

 

[dj]

I'll second DTM's suggestion. Really sucks to replace a chain so soon, but I'm sure you'd rather not have it snap during a track day!

 

[ducvet]

dennis
be sure to check the output shaft to be sure it has not been damaged (bent) by the too tight chain. I have seen this done in the past. also keep an eye out for leaks around the output seal.
as long as you didnt have too many miles on the too tight chain you should be ok.
you are safer staying on the looser side of the chain slack than the tighter.
cheers

 

[DenniS4Rtemp]

My bike is going in for its first service next Monday. I was late making the appointment due to the fire. I wanted the bike to be normal when I brought in. I have almost 900 miles in it and have done 2 oil changes. One before each track day. The tech there is a good friend and did a quick look over on the bike. At the first service I will make sure all is checked.

 

[Fillmore]

Back to the clutch throwout bearing thing... I recently did a couple clutches and found a couple of tricks...

I completely destroyed the seals on a bearing while trying to install it in an aftermarket aluminum pressure plate using the whacka-whacka method. I froze the bearing over night and it still was very hard to install.

I tried the same thing on a second pressure plate of the same manufacture. This time I put the frozen bearing in the pressure plate that I heated in the oven to 400 deg F. The bearing literally dropped in place and became fixed in place as the two parts came to the same temperature (BTW, this works for installing pinion bearings in differentials, but cool the pinion and heat the bearing in a Fry Daddy (tm). ) The Pressure plate was anodized red and the heat didn't seem to affect it in any way.

Now back to pressure plate #1... The sealed bearing
was no longer sealed, so it needs to come out, but the differential heating/cooling method wouldn't work anymore. I tried the freezer first, since I could leave it overnight at this point. I pounded and pounded until I thought that I was going to knock the center out of the bearing (and have a REAL problem then). I switched to the oven method, 400 deg F for 25 mins, and the bearing popped out with a light tap.

Now, if the little brown man with the package from Signore Kelley shows up today, I can re-test method #1.

HTH,
--Fillmore

 

[Guest]

with the pressure plate being aluminum and the bearing "rings" being steel, it makes sense that the p'plate will be more susceptable to expanding/contracting with temp cycles.