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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan on painting a few parts this week and with them local tempeatures I'm concerned about the adherence/tear dropping of paint. What do you guys suggest? Does anyone use their home oven or a separate appliance for heating?

What do you do for preparation prior to painting?
Anyone can spray a tank?

R.
 

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what all are you painting?
just gonna use spray paint? I've painted in some pretty cold temps in the garage, and never really noticed any big problems with application or adhearance. I did give everything longer to dry though before applying another coat, or handling any parts. just take your time, and don't spray too much at once. if the surface looks like it's really wet, it means it's getting ready to run or drip.

for prep, I would clean and sand the part. then spray on a couple coats of primer. the primer will help with adhereance. you can sand with a fine grain of paper between primer coats. after the final coat of primer you can do some wet sanding with very fine grain paper. keep the part/paper plenty wet or you'll get lots of little scratches. this should give you a super smooth surface. wash and dry the part, and it should be ready for color. I usually sprayed anywhere from 2 to 5 or 6 color coats depending on the part. if you wet sand after each coat it will keep everything smooth. when you're done with the color, the part should look kind of "flat". spray on a couple coats of clear coat enamel and it will bring the color out.

don't use enamel paints for the color if you're going to clear coat. spraying clear enamel on top of color enamel causes everything to wrinkle.

I painted the tank on the 998. it turned out pretty good. I spilled some gas on it this summer though, and the clear coat ran really bad. I guess thats what to expect when using spray paint ???
 

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Yo R,

I've got a couple painting instructional dvd's you're welcome to borrow if interested...

Let me know!

Larry Dallas
 

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Hey Ruben, I happen to have huge experience in this area too. I painted a 67 Camaro that showed at Vette Fest and almost received a perfect score (and it wasn't the paint that failed). I have several cars under my belt and not to mention work related stuff...

You can use an oven at home but don't go crazy on temp and let it set before putting it in. You don't want dust sticking in the paint (even though you always will).

BH is right. The better the prep the better the job. Use 400 Grit paper for wet sanding the primer. I prefer expoxy primer over laquer based stuff because the laquer based primer outgasses over months and collapses into the rough sanding marks and body work underneath. If someone does the job fast the body work and defects can be seen later especially under flouresent light and sunlight. Epoxy primer ($$$) does not have this issue. Old timers will leave laquer based primers sit for a long time or dry in an oven.

The clear can be wet sanded too with 1000 grit, followed by 1500 (can skip to next grit too), and then 2000 Grit. Buff a fine buffing compound (Not any rough crap) and then with Finesse It ll. Then foam pad with swirl remover and finally Polish...don't wax for three months

Then take to track and crash ...start all over again
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's some damn good advice! Thanks cats.

To answer a few questions:

I plan on painting the rear sets, tank, swingarm (if it doesn't sell this week--very impatient), engine case covers (should I powercoat them?), and valve covers.

For engine covers, should I use a high temp paint/powercoating, etc?

When applying primer/paint, should the garage (my operating room) be a minimal temp? If so, can I place a space heater in relative distance?

As far as oven temps, a fellow DML'er had his parts in the oven at 175 for 45 mins. Sufficent?

What can I use to clean the parts, including the tank?

I'm trying to decide if I should buy a compressor and paint gun. I went shopping for compressor/gun yesterday with my father in law at Sears. Decent prices, and I figure if I paid for painting services, I could just buy the equipment, you know? Set up a booth in my garage with tarps, space heater, lights, whatever.

R.
 

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Denatured Alcohol is great for wiping parts. Do not get silicon on your parts and don't use Armour All like products in you painting area (Garage).

Depending on what you are painting will decide the gun choice. A smaller gun for smaller (motorcycle) jobs is sufficient otherwise get HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) so you don't paint the garage so much as your part (alot less overspray). For bike parts a standard gun will work.

The real issue is paint. Paint costs money and you always end up buying more than you need and that stuff always ends up wasted because it has a shelf life. Putting the stuff in the fridge helps extend lifespan but it still will die eventually.
 

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If you build a booth, don't forget about ventilation. I don't have any fans or anything in my garage, just some plastic sheeting in the corner from floor to ceiling. I can only paint for a few minutes before I start to choke on the fumes [laugh]
even with a mask on, the paint gets in your nose and mouth. I was sick a lot last winter from all the painting I was doing. on the plus side, at least my snot was colorful. [thumbsup]

let me know if you decide to buy a gun and stuff. I'd be willing to share some cost if I could use the gun to finish the paint on the monster, and maybe paint the track bodywork for my kawi.
 

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as far as paint vs powdercoat, if you have access to reasonable cost powdercoating, I would coat instead of paint. definitely for stuff like rearsets that take some wear and tear.
engine and valve covers might last with paint, but it is hard to tell so far on the monster. I painted the engine covers and valve covers with standard paint for the s2r. it looks good, but I don't know how long it will last. on the cast metals it doesn't seem like the primer wants to bond with the part, so the paint just forms a shell that just sit on top of the material. if the paint is peeling after a season of riding, I will have everything powdercoated. I painted the rest of the motor with high-temp paint. it seems to adhere pretty well.
 

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Painted the wife's car this way. During the summer and the right kind of day (no wind) this is possible.
 

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For powdercoating I recommend LOKO Performance. They are in chicagoland and they do 'jet hot' like coatings too.
 

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I really should collect my thoughts before I reply...here's more

Get some scotchbrite (fine) to do a final rub down of your wetsanded part. Use a tac cloth and 'lightly' run over the part before spraying. If doing multiple color coats, take 400-600 grit sandpaper between coats and lightly go over the part to remove dust nibs and imperfections. If basecoat and clearing afterward, even if you run the basecoat you can sand with 600 and keep going. Just be sure its dry before sanding.

Make sure you get a water seperator filter for your compressor and also a disposable plastic one that goes on the inlet of the gun. Extend the life of that filter by leaving in wife's oven with only the pilot light going if gas or low heat to dry out. That saves a wee bit of $$ for something else.

LOKO cleaned, blasted, and coated several heat shields on my buddies car years ago for reasonable money.
 

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Wow, this sounds kinda complicated.

I was planning to do my race plastics....not so sure now :-[
 

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c5367 said:
Wow, this sounds kinda complicated.

I was planning to do my race plastics....not so sure now :-[
Buck up little camper! You'll find a groove. (I was thinking the same, but my dark monster won't be green if i'm sulking in the corner). Is this the year everyone paints?
 

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chia said:
Buck up little camper! You'll find a groove. (I was thinking the same, but my dark monster won't be green if i'm sulking in the corner). Is this the year everyone paints?
Looks like it! I'm gonna give it a shot at least. I'm just waiting for winter break and to get all the paint gear acquired.
 

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So now that I've opened my big fat mouth... has anyone here attempted painting a "Dark" plastic tank?
 

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yo Ruben, i've got you covered on the compressor. i've got a Craftman 6hp 30gal 150psi, used it just a few times in the past 3 years. you're more than welcomed to borrow it for as long as you need it. just get the paint gun.
 

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better yet, why don't we have a paint session/clinic! i've got a spare tank and fender we can practice on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Silvy that would be dope! Guys, anyone intersted in coming over to someone's garage and painting a few items? I'm down.

Silvy, I'll pick you up on that offer regarding the compressor. I just have to find shop for a paint gun specific to your compressor.

I personally want to tackle the painting within a week or two. Anyone intersted in a session?

Kenny, plan on painting your tank?

B.H.---Regarding engine painting, did you remove it from the bike?

R.
 

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If the items are the same (same color), I could probably hold the clinic. The problem really is time.

Prime the parts..dry time..prep the parts..then paint. Normally this doesn't all happen in a day.

As far as the paint gun goes, any paint gun will work. You just have to have your fittings right. That usually means just buying the hoses and fittings for the compressor side, hose ends, and paint gun.

What would you suggest? Bodywork, prep and prime on one weekend, paint the next?

Here are two more pics...One is the wetsanded black primer or wetsanded clearcoat before buffing...I can't tell which. The other is the wetsanded, buffed and polished clear with tree reflection...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Two clinics are great idea swordsman, of course session weekends that follow one another.

Are you available next month? Your choice at the two weekends since you're the host.

I'll buy the gun this afternoon. Should I buy the type with the reservior top mounted?

This is great. I can't believe this is happening!

R.
 
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