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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 S4 in Senna, which means it has red wheels. I need to paint them black. I just cannot do the red wheel thing. Do you:

1. Sand, primer, paint, clearcoat?
2. Primer, sand, paint, clearcoat?

Or something else? I have never painted over painted metal surface. Thanks!
 

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I would powdercoat them rather than paint. Powdercoating is a more durable finish than paint. When you drop the wheels off at the powdercoater they will strip the old paint (media blast) and powdercoat. No primer is involved.
 

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i vote against powdercoating. the powdercoating process weakens the alloy. paint has a much nicer finish that you cannot attain with powdercoating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I'm not interested in powdercoating. I just want to paint the wheels. It's easy, cheaper, and should look great if done correctly.

I painted the lowers on my 2003 Audi, and it come out fantastic. The material is plastic, though. Saved me about $900 over shop.
 

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Waldorf said:
i vote against powdercoating. the powdercoating process weakens the alloy. paint has a much nicer finish that you cannot attain with powdercoating.
The temps involved with powdercoating arn't enough to damage the alloys.

Gracie, do you have cast aluminum wheels?
 

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i didn't do it... i chose it ;)

i wasn't there when the painter did it. i just delivered the frame. he did it in "Gun Metal Grey" the real deal. with a fine sparkle in the clear coat. sad i don't have a closeup of the paint in my album of that bike
 

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A few things

[mod hat]

1. This thread should probably be moved to "tech" or "accessories and mods"

[/mod hat]



2.
If you do decide to paint cast aluminium, be aware that some people have had paint flaking problems on other parts due to bad prep work.

auzblackrabbit said:
The assy is cast alloy and if not cleaned properly before painting any corrosion trapped under the paint will grow and lift the paint . To get rid of it without stripping all the paint off the whole assy is dificult if not impossible . The best solution is powder coating as part of the process is grit blasting which will get rid of the old paint and any corrosion at the same time and if the whole process is done in one continuous operation it should last a very long time . The inside of the assy needs to be blasted as well .
I have a similar problem on the other side but that is from a leaking clutch fluid :'( now I have two problems to fix ::)

Rabbit
Read more about "The Creeping Crud" here:

http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/index.php?topic=10549.0

It looks/sounds like it might be worth the money to at least have the wheels media blasted before you paint them to be sure you prep the area properly.



3.
Waldorf said:
yes, they both are
No, not really. I had a bunch of parts recently powdercoated (matte black and gloss red) and the finish looks just as good, if not better, than paint. There was a kind of... density or thickness to the finish that kind of glows. Gorgeous.... Pictures here:

http://www.mad-ducati.com/Gallery/ckershner/G355/IMG_4953.jpg
http://www.mad-ducati.com/Gallery/ckershner/G355/IMG_4962.jpg

et al- http://www.mad-ducati.com/GalleryShowTN.php?GalleryId=355

Maybe you just had a bad powdercoater, or I just had a really good one.



4.
ducatizzy said:
Generally, epoxy type paints are more durable than most powder coats (that I've seen). Lauer Weaponry makes DuraCoat which is used successfully on US military weapons. If powder coatings was more durable, I am sure it would be used instead.
My powdercoater took 3 weeks to get my stuff back to me because they were busy powdercoating Humvee doors for the Army. They must have had 5 or 6 hundred of them in there.

I'm guessing the reason why Lauer doesn't powdercoat weapons are because weapons require higher tolerances than humvee doors to work, and since powdercoating is "thicker" than paint, the parts probably wouldn't go together right.
 

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your red parts is what i'm talking about. powdercoating hides the lines. it looks too much like candy.
i prefer the precision look of a fine paint job.
 

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i can't stress enought that it's all about the prep work. when i painted my wheels on my wrx (metal),

it was:
-sand evenly with various grits
-wash and dry thoroughly
-few coats of primer with light wet sanding if need be
-few coats of paint " " " " " " " " "
-few coats of clear " " " " " " " " "

take your time and it will come out great.

be sure to take into account ambient temps when painting, curing times and WEAR A MASK!
another tip, if working in colder climates drop the cans in a bucket of hot water = less tip clogging and finer spray mist. [thumbsup]

 

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Dragsterhund said:
My powdercoater took 3 weeks to get my stuff back to me because they were busy powdercoating Humvee doors for the Army. They must have had 5 or 6 hundred of them in there.

I'm guessing the reason why Lauer doesn't powdercoat weapons are because weapons require higher tolerances than humvee doors to work, and since powdercoating is "thicker" than paint, the parts probably wouldn't go together right.

When i was in the Army (just 2 short years ago) everthing was painted and badly done. Touch ups were done with krylon. I guess they may be sending the up-armored doors there, we didn't have any of that "safe" stuff on ours.
 

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anodizing on wheels is crazy hot as well like the blue O.Z. Racing wheels that come on some Aprilia bikes

my all time favorite finish for a wheel is the way BBS only clear coats the metal. they barely add a little tint and/or sparkle to the clear coat. it's amazing.
 
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