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Discussion Starter #1
hi there.

put the monster to bed for the winter today (the only weekend i can do it before snowboard season) - nice 3 days of riding in southern PA beforehand (met my season goal of 5k).

but the damn overheating problem is still happening. 2 times in the last 4 rides! in the holland tunnel (bad enough to stall out in the middle of the tunnel and then again a couple minutes later in Soho), yesterday in NJ on the way back from AC - stalled at a light and wouldn't start again for 10 minutes. almost did it again today!

here are the syptoms:

- top cylinder gets hot enough to feel thru my leathers
- starts to lose power
- idle gets thin and then dies
- side of motor too hot to touch
- fuel pump is hot, but not unduly so
- it will crank and crank, but not start. choke on, choke off, no throttle action, lots of throttle action - all the same result.
- there is a odd minor stumble at 4500 rpm, only noticible if you really listen for it, but odd nonetheless.

i checked the sparkplugs - they look fine (slightly brown)...

i pulled the fuel pump off when i put the bike away to rebuild it (got the rebuild kit already - getting the clamps off was the hardest part). but what if this doesn't cure it? i send a lot of time sitting at lights and traffic thoughout my riding day. could the carbs be out of sync? the manual says this could cause overheating...

btw, am i killing the motor with this shite? i checked the drain plugs and filter when i changed the oil and there was some metal filings on the magnet and some shiny metal (but not more than a couple flakes) on the filter - have no clue whether or not this is normal?

sorry so long...

cheers!
steve
 
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Bad ignition timing can run a cylinder hot so can running it lean on fuel.

The dealer should be able to do an exhaust gas analysis (you know those little allen head plugs on your header pipes) and do it a various engine speeds, the idle circuit may be fine and the main jetting is hosed.....

and they should also be able to verify that the ignition pickups are set properly.

May also want to check that your valve timing is correct. If both spark plugs look ok I would venture a guess that it is a timing issue

Metal on the oil screen is never a good thing post-break in....if you had a failed clutch slave cylinder and were banging gears hard for a day or 5 that could explain the presence....the other options are flaky rockers or other unpleasantness
 

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hi steve. no doubt your problem is heat related. not sure your bike is running too hot though. in stop and go traffic the vertical cylinder will cook your leg and the side cover will be hot.

a good way to see if the problem is fuel delivery is your problem is to run from the tank directly to the carbs (gravity feed, just like the good ol' days). if it now doesn't stall, bingo! by the way, i have a fuel cut off that works,but the mount is broken. you are welcome to it. a wire tie will hold it in place.
 
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Steve,
I had a similar problem, but during very hot weather (top 30s deg C to 40s ...in Australian summer). Bike would loose power and splutter and then die. 15 mins later it'd start again, no probs, but fail again 20 mins or so later... :mad:
Checked the fuel pipe routing and found the fuel pipe sitting on the crankcase cover just before turning up into the fuel pump (I'm on a '95 900 carb'd) :D. Cable tied the pipe up away from the surface and bingo...she runs fine now! ;D
I've also known this to happen to a '99 model also...
Cheers ...Simon
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ya know - if that is the answer, i am just gonna smack myself in the head. :eek:

thanks simon - i will look into it when i go down to PA to do some winter projects on the bike in a month or two.

cheers!
steve
 
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