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I tried searching, but I think I'm no good at it. Everyone on the new monsters looks awesome except for the HUGE passenger foot pegs. I'll never take a passenger. What are the best options? I don't need high dollar racing rear sets with less leg room, just removing the big 'ol passenger part.
 

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there are several options

Rizoma
Style and Performance
Woodcraft
etc.
do a google search
also some have just cut it off
 

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Let me know if you remove them. I'm looking for a set to have powdercoated to match the swingarm. (like the 796)
 

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pass. pegs

i got an `09 m1100 and they give me the same headache. i would like to chop the stockers and powdercoat them but i'm scared it will look like a backyard chop job... but, then i started thinking and any machine shop should be able to handle this task and make it look clean. just an idea but i believe this is the route i'm gonna take when i do it.
 

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If, as you say, you'll never have a passenger on the bike, just unbolt them from the frame and tuck them away in the garage or attic. Bike will look better, and the stock pegs will be available to put back on the bike if you ever decide to sell it.

Why worry about how a chopped set of rear pegs will look if you're never going to need them?
 

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I tried searching, but I think I'm no good at it. Everyone on the new monsters looks awesome except for the HUGE passenger foot pegs. I'll never take a passenger. What are the best options? I don't need high dollar racing rear sets with less leg room, just removing the big 'ol passenger part.

what bike do you have?
 

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ok i solved my problem. i was sick and tired of staring at the hideous pass. footpegs on my bike, '09 m1100s, which are not detachable. first i made two ballpark cuts with a reciprocating saw. keeping in mind the support beams on the backside, i used my grinder to round everything out and attempted to make it appear a little cleaner. once i was done grinding and semi-pleased with the appearance, i removed the kick stand, shifter, brake pedal, shift linkange, and the footpegs from their brackets. next i used a big socket and a vice to 'press' out the rubber inserts that are in the footpeg brackets. after cleaning everything well with rubbing alcohol, i powder coated it all black. hope this helps somebody that was thinking the same thing. i have a few more pics if you look at my profile.

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Monster 796 ABS
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ok i solved my problem. i was sick and tired of staring at the hideous pass. footpegs on my bike, '09 m1100s, which are not detachable. first i made two ballpark cuts with a reciprocating saw. keeping in mind the support beams on the backside, i used my grinder to round everything out and attempted to make it appear a little cleaner. once i was done grinding and semi-pleased with the appearance, i removed the kick stand, shifter, brake pedal, shift linkange, and the footpegs from their brackets. next i used a big socket and a vice to 'press' out the rubber inserts that are in the footpeg brackets. after cleaning everything well with rubbing alcohol, i powder coated it all black. hope this helps somebody that was thinking the same thing. i have a few more pics if you look at my profile.

View attachment 99740

View attachment 99741

View attachment 99742

View attachment 99743
Very old post, I realize, but I like the job you did.
I'm considering doing the same myself just now - any advice?
 

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Find an 1100evo that's being wrecked.
Buy the footpegs and the rear-brake to ABS module brake-pipe.
Replace the original brake pipe with the Evo one because the Evo master cylinder is tucked behind the footpeg bracket in a different orientation, and the original brake hose is slightly too long and wont bend without kinking.
Replace the original footpegs with the EVO ones and connect everything up.

cheers, Keef.

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*Old photo before the SC Project pipes went on.
 

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If, as you say, you'll never have a passenger on the bike, just unbolt them from the frame and tuck them away in the garage or attic. Bike will look better, and the stock pegs will be available to put back on the bike if you ever decide to sell it.

Why worry about how a chopped set of rear pegs will look if you're never going to need them?
The rider and passenger pegs mount on the same bracket. I never have, and never will, carry a passenger, so I want the passenger pegs gone as well. I just want something sanitary.

Woodcraft has these, but they're expensive and I like the current position of the pegs: 05-0660B Ducati Monster 696 2009-13, 796 2011-13, 1100 2009-10, 1100EVO 2011-13 Complete Rearset w/ Pedals - STD/GP Shift

Any ideas?
 

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Monster 796 ABS
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When i bought my current bike, the previous owner threw in a set of ebay no-brand rear-sets. They were anodized "silver" aluminium - and pretty ugly to be honest.

Rather than just tossing them, I figured I'd experiment, so spent about $30 on primer, matte black, and clear-coat rattle-cans. Also couldn't resist spraying the spring yellow. I also had to buy an in-line brake-line pressure switch for the rear brake light.

Finished product below, a few thousand miles in and no chips yet.

226895
 

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Looks great! :)

I just found the equivalent of "no-brand ebay" rear sets at Amazon. They look decent, so I might try a set.

 

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That looks like the same one!

Here is the brake switch I needed: Gorgeri Hydraulic Brake Switch
The connector on the brake doesn't match the bike wiring so I decided to change the connector. I bought these: 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector

I found that matte black with matte clear-coat over it matched the stock bodywork pretty well.
But painting it was a pain, it took a lot of sanding and I needed to bake the parts in the oven between coats to get the finish to harden.

If you decide to paint, be sure to avoid painting the "mating" faces, so the insides bore of the spacers and the mating faces of the spacers/brackets.
Maybe mock it all up and mark off the parts before you start the prep work. The tolerance is relatively tight and wont accommodate a layer of paint.

Also, the shifter arm/rod doesn't quite fit well. Whe you put it all in place, it slightly interferes with the shift lever.
I had to reverse the little lever that attaches to the splined shaft at the crankcase, picture below.
This brought the shifting rod a little closer to the centerline of the bike and left some clearance with the shift lever.
When you flip the lever over, it's tricky to tighten it again, you might need a short/stubby hex key to get in there.

226897


One other thing to be careful of. There are four large bolts that hold the main bracket onto the crankcase, two one each side, at the bottom.
They are not all the same size. Three are long and one is short. When you are removing the stock brackets, be sure to note were the short one goes.
If not, you can bottom out one of long bolts in the shallow hole. If you're not careful, there is a risk of stripping threads (don't ask me how I know).

Hope this helps!
 
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