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Discussion Starter #1
My 696 has 10K miles on it and the shop is recommending I replace the chain and front/rear sprockets. They said the Ducati chain and sprocket kit would cost $343 before tax.

Is anyone aware of non-Ducati replacements that cost less (that you would recommend) and where I can order them?

TIA
 

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i've just had a 525 X-ring D.I.D chain fitted to my 1100S. cheaper and better than the DP chain. i have DP sprockets and are very happy with them.

had a DP alloy 42T 525 rear fitted and i could tell the difference immediately both in riding, and when i got the bike up on the stand and spun the rear wheel round.

i haven't checked out non DP 520 sprockets, but renthal do good chain/sprocket sets in 520 size. not sure about steel replacements, though.

cheers.
 

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Go Aftermarket...

DID Chains are great quality and for 108 links or less are listed for under $100. You can also get away with JT brand front and rear sprockets for $60- 80 for both. This is a cheap way to go, but you won't be skimping on quality.
 

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Why in heaven's name are you replacing the chain/sprockets at 10K miles? The
stock sprockets and DID chain will last almost forever. My '99 M750 has 28K miles,
and while the front sprocket is just now showing some tooth wear, the rear
sprocket is visually perfect, and the chain has ZERO wear. (I know because I
cut off the master link and measued the elongation.) It sounds suspiciously like someone at the dealership is working on commission and is capitalizing on your
trusting nature. But if you absolutely positively are convinced you must have all new
stuff, then aftermarket chain/sprockets should be available for under $200 total.
 

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28,000 miles...! that's incredible. how much do you weigh?
 

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Ducati doesn't make chains, they just sell them like any other retailer. Check Ebay and as long as it's an "O" or "X" type, you'll be fine.
 

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Personally, I wouldn't buy the discount chains like EK or the non name brand types. My S4 broke the chain at 12,000 miles, I think it was the stock DID, luckily, it didn't blow through the cases or do any damage to anything but the rear hugger/chainguard. Chains are not all the same, even DID has different grades of chain in the same sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I ended up buying a JT 48T, AFAM 15T and DID chain from California Cycleworks. I ordered the VM520 chain but it was out of stock so they upgraded me to an ERV3. That's service!

Parts: $200
Labor: $123

Parts and labor together were well under the price for the Ducati chain/sprocket kit.

I now appreciate the importance of maintaining the chain. I didn't clean or oil the factory chain in over 10K miles. I wasn't even sure I'd get to my Duc dealer on the factory chain for the service.
 

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how did you manage not to look after the chain in 10,000 miles? cleaning and lubing the chain is everywhere you find info on basic motorcycle maintenance.

not being funny, but given that it's the only means of providing power (and massively important to your safety) why didn't you bother to look after it when you washed and polished your bike? not to mention the extra stress you imposed on your engine...

and yes, it is a horrible, messy job. even with a grunge brush.

i clean and lube my chain (and get all the crap out from the front sprocket area) on average every 300-500 miles.
 

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I hose my chain down with WD-40 and wipe off with a rag on every ride. Nothing else.
 

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California Cycleworks has my vote for all our Monster needs! I order all my parts through them. Great service and great prices. They should have what you're looking for.
 

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Is 48T the standard sprocket size on the 696. I went from a 45 to a 43 in the back and a 15 to a 14 in the front and I can feel quicker acceleration but I just got a 48 in and went to put in on except that the chain is too short (put it on sized to the 43) so now I have to wait for some stretch or a my new chain to come in.......the 48 should make it more torqie....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The 696 comes stock with 15T up front and 45T in back. I had a 14T put up front at the beginning of the season. At the 7500 mile service when I had to replace chain and sprockets, I went back to 15T up front and 48T in rear which is the same as 14T-45T. Some will argue the 48T in rear stresses the chain less than 14T in front.

Is 48T the standard sprocket size on the 696. I went from a 45 to a 43 in the back and a 15 to a 14 in the front and I can feel quicker acceleration but I just got a 48 in and went to put in on except that the chain is too short (put it on sized to the 43) so now I have to wait for some stretch or a my new chain to come in.......the 48 should make it more torqie....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You live, you learn. :rolleyes: I put 10K+ miles in 4 months on my Duc this summer. She gave me those 10,000 miles 100% problem free.

My new $190 chain (upgraded for free from a $123 chain) will be maintained well. [cheeky]

how did you manage not to look after the chain in 10,000 miles? cleaning and lubing the chain is everywhere you find info on basic motorcycle maintenance.
 

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I am going to stick with the 14 up front and try the 48 in the back........we'll see how it goes....hopefully well......
 

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i might be imagining this, but i thought i read somewhere that you want one odd and one even number of teeth on the front and rear sprocket combination, and not two odd or two even. not exactly sure why.

perhaps someone who knows can chip in on this?
 

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Interesting. never heard that one before but it's possible......anyone?
 

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if you can add fuel econ to my question as well. how many miles before the light comes on? How many miles before you need your thumb?

right now the light comes on around 105 miles. (I run it around 5 - 6K rpm as much as possible)
 

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i might be imagining this, but i thought i read somewhere that you want one odd and one even number of teeth on the front and rear sprocket combination, and not two odd or two even. not exactly sure why.

perhaps someone who knows can chip in on this?
This was probably started by some guy spending too much time fooling
around with gear clusters. Engineers design gears with even/odd
tooth pairings to prevent uneven wear, as no two teeth will continually
mesh as a single unit, but will instead alternate with other teeth,
thereby averaging out wear and reducing gear rumble. Years ago this
was called: hunting tooth, and as far as I know is still a practice in
use today. Extending such necessity to a roller chain is doubtful, but if
anyone believes it is, then simply loosening the chain and rotating the
rear wheel one tooth will have the same effect of establishing newly
matched tooth pairing. Seems like a lot of work for nothing to me.
 
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