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New Member, 1st Street Bike, 1st Ducati Monster 750

1K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  HOLLYWOODSTAT718 
#1 ·
Hey guys, Im from Queens NYC but recently moved to Louisville KY with my wife and our 3n Kids. She wanted to move here to be by her family who relocated here from Chicago. So I said, "you wouldn't let me get a bike in NYC, although I grew up on dirt bikes and quads riding all over South Queens and Long Island. So if you want to move I get a bike.

Well I recently came into a little bit of cash and had my first opportunity to get myself a bike. I found on Facebook Marketplace a 99 Monster 750 for $2600 and had like 20K on the speedo. So I figiured I always wanted a Duc and don't want to drop thousands of dollars on a brand new bike bc chances are I may drop it, or worse lay it down. So here I am.

Now after purchasing the bike from a guy around my age or a few years older, mom in my 30s. I noticed on the ride home the bike had a slight wobble when I accelerated, come to find out, I need to do the Fork Seals, bc there seems to be a slight leak a "mechanic" I used informed me. I left him the bike and he did timing belt, tensioners bearings I put 2 new tires on it, as well as spark plugs, oil change, & replaced the air filter. I got the bike back and noticed that from time to time if im on the highway causing and I go to get on it after a bit in 5th if I accelerate a little harder than normal like to get over quickly the bike will begin to shrug and putt and then essentially dies on me and I see this being somewhat of a problem being that it would suck to get hit doing 70-80mph in the left lane and just stop and come to a rolling stop. I've found that if I adjust the choke or "Cold Start Lever," as the manual calls, the bike will rev back up (obviously) sop it won't die but the moment I try to accelerate and give it gas it dies. I thought maybe I was just twisting to much on the throttle and possibly flooding it, but it happened again on me when I was "Babying" the throttle. Any advice on this or if anyone has had similar issues with this it would be greatly appreciated.

My next question I need to replace the chain and sprockets and I ordered all the parts as called for from what I read online and this Ducati manual im putting a 14 in the front and I believe it was a 41 tooth, I ordered for the rear and a 520 x ring 100 link chain, please let me know if this correct and how hard is this job to do? I am pretty mechanically inclined on cars but have never worked on any bikes so I am very green here. Ive seen some laser realigning tool for the back wheel bc I've read it can be an issue if I don't do it right so any advice and or tips for doing this job is appreciated and also, im imagining this tool is not needed...Thoughts?

So today I received my front sprocket and rear sprocket, but still no chain, now how bad would it be if I was to put these 2 sprockets on and reused the old chain for a couple days until the new one comes or should I just not be dumb and be patient and wait? I also noticed when I removed the front sprocket that the 2 bolts that are in the sprocket were both broken off into it and my new sprocket did not come with the bolts or that washer doohickey I seen on a video of a front sprocket removal on a same year 900. out was around the center of the sprocket in the video and my bike didn't have one when I removed the cover to access the sprocket. My new sprocket also came with no bolts, but I went and tried to test fit some bolts and found that a 5mm by .8 pitch fit almost perfectly I figured id buy grade 10's but I do not know how long these bolts need to be. I figured id just use an extractor bit to get them out the old sprocket but I thought this may be faster. So is it imperative I get that washer doohickey thing (probably right? if it was there, it was for a reason, yeah? lol) and does anyone happen to know the lengths of the bolts that go into that front sprocket? My new one did not come

and finally I promise.... my speedo cable looks like it was pinched and cracked at the bottom toward the front tire, does anyone know how to repair this because my speedometer isnt working now, I can buy a new one from the local dealer but they tell me its going to be 7-10 days until the get one in, does anyone know of any on amazon that I could use because none come up for motorcycles it seems, I ask about amazon bc I have like a $200 credit on there and as a father with 3 kids and another due in July im trying to save a few bucks here and there if possible.

So there it is, there's everything I need to know and if anyone can help then your the ****in man so thank you! I look forward to talking with you guys some more and asking more dumbass questions that make you smh lol thanks again.....ill post some more updated pics of the bike shortly
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#3 ·
So is it imperative I get that washer doohickey thing (probably right?
If the sprocket moves side to side along the shaft it MIGHT chew up the sprocket cover, chain guide and swing arm. If the bolts are too long they will chew the engine casting, just get them long enough that they don't come out the back of the sprocket by more than a couple of mm.
Ive seen some laser realigning tool
You have marks on the swingarm and the plates that the axle goes through. Use the marks to align the wheel.
So today I received my front sprocket and rear sprocket, but still no chain, now how bad would it be if I was to put these 2 sprockets on and reused the old chain
Wait for the chain.
You're going to want a rear stand to lift the back of the bike as you'll need to pull the wheel off to replace the rear sprocket.
Not sure of chain length but if it's not the right length you'll need a chain link remover.
my speedo cable looks like it was pinched and cracked at the bottom toward the front tire,
Pull the cable off and pull the inner cable out of the sleeve to see if its damaged before you buy anything.
If the cable has been pinched it might be the drive mechanism on the wheel that's the problem.
If you've got a front stand undo the cable from the speedo, spin the wheel and see if the cable inner turns as the wheel spins.

As for the engine issue it sounds like carby tune, crap in carby of a dirty fuel filter. Hopefully not ignition coils.
Maybe try some metho in the fuel to see if there's water in it from sitting and some carby cleaner but if it sat it could be bad fuel gumming the jets up.
 
#4 ·
If the sprocket moves side to side along the shaft it MIGHT chew up the sprocket cover, chain guide and swing arm. If the bolts are too long they will chew the engine casting, just get them long enough that they don't come out the back of the sprocket by more than a couple of mm.

You have marks on the swingarm and the plates that the axle goes through. Use the marks to align the wheel.

Wait for the chain.
You're going to want a rear stand to lift the back of the bike as you'll need to pull the wheel off to replace the rear sprocket.
Not sure of chain length but if it's not the right length you'll need a chain link remover.

Pull the cable off and pull the inner cable out of the sleeve to see if its damaged before you buy anything.
If the cable has been pinched it might be the drive mechanism on the wheel that's the problem.
If you've got a front stand undo the cable from the speedo, spin the wheel and see if the cable inner turns as the wheel spins.

As for the engine issue it sounds like carby tune, crap in carby of a dirty fuel filter. Hopefully not ignition coils.
Maybe try some metho in the fuel to see if there's water in it from sitting and some carby cleaner but if it sat it could be bad fuel gumming the jets up.
wow thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate you answering all my questions from my novel up there! I don't have a front or back stand but I rigged some Jiggy mess up on my back porch and took 2 ratchet straps to the front thru the bars and one in the back and lifted my bike lol im a mess... I will get back to you with results. Again I can not thank you enough!

oh crap before I forget again there is a hose that comes out the side of the air box do you happen to know what that hose is called or what it does mine is a bit damaged, and finally when I lift my seat I have that little fuel filter canister and below that is what seems to be a plug with a cap that goes into the bottom of the tank with a wire "harness" that has a black and white wire coming from it. do you happen to know where those wires are supposed to go or connect to because mine are just hanging around for some reason. doesn't seem right to me. again thanks for the help. ill try and get some pics of my "jig rig" that is holding the bike up for a good laugh lol
 
#6 ·
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This is what I was asking about under the tank with the 1 wires coming from it
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This is that hose I was asking about that goes from the air box down the Frame and to a black canister type box ....all on the left side of the tank.
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what is the name of this gasket? Donut gasket? flange? I can't seem to find one. it goes in the exhaust at the bottom of the motor where exhaust meets the motor. will show exact location in next picture
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this is where that metal gasket/flange thing is located and I noticed smoke coming from this one day and replaced the gaskets and that thing fell out but only half was there, I guess previous owner lost the other half? idk

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the last 2 are just more pics of the bike and this is my 29 month old son Junior with that Dope Ducati shirt chilling on his monster lol
 
#8 ·
1st pic. should be the sender for your low fuel light.
2nd. The canister under the seat is pollution gear.
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It starts at the valve circled, runs to the canister and then to the air box so the engine burns any oily air generated by the crank case.
Some people just put a small filter on the valve.
If the engine has been over filled with oil the canister can have a bit of oil in it.
3.its best to have both of those half bushes in place or the exhaust may, or may not be sealing properly on the gasket.
They go under the cast iron ring that bolts the exhaust on.
Is the other half trapped in the heat wrap?
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The diagram is deceiving, the half bushes are there to lock the ring in place around the pipe.

Handy resource for you.
The parts diagrams are handy and it tells you if the parts are available through ducati.
If the list has a price your dealer can get it for you.

Good to see you getting the boy into bikes early.
 
#14 ·
1st pic. should be the sender for your low fuel light. 2nd. The canister under the seat is pollution gear. View attachment 228685 It starts at the valve circled, runs to the canister and then to the air box so the engine burns any oily air generated by the crank case. Some people just put a small filter on the valve. If the engine has been over filled with oil the canister can have a bit of oil in it. 3.its best to have both of those half bushes in place or the exhaust may, or may not be sealing properly on the gasket. They go under the cast iron ring that bolts the exhaust on. Is the other half trapped in the heat wrap? View attachment 228686 The diagram is deceiving, the half bushes are there to lock the ring in place around the pipe. Handy resource for you. The parts diagrams are handy and it tells you if the parts are available through ducati. If the list has a price your dealer can get it for you. Good to see you getting the boy into bikes early.
As a first time Ducati owner myself, seeing this diagram and the others that are on that link are super helpful for me. I got my bike around May and the wiring is just connected everywhere and anywhere except where it's supposed to be. She doesn't even start at the time being, and I've even tried jump starting her. If you know any Colorado Ducati people that would be willing to teach me a thing or two about wiring, let me know lol.
 
#9 ·
oh hey one last question before I get my butt to work on all this great info you gave me. my wife don't like all the time I spend on the bike now but she thought it was cool how everyone here looks out for one another and helps out when and how they can. Just wanted to let you guys know that.... Anyway, back to business... so I noticed on my right brakes the master cylinder has two wires going to it with a small metal connector coming out of it, so one of those metal connectors broke off. its the one furthest away from the handle bars, so the outside one I suppose you'd say? irregardless whoever owned the bike prior had ran 2 new wires with a spade connector and tried to solder it on. but yeah the issue is now there's no metal piece there anymore and a hanging wire. so my question is, is there anyway to fix this or I have to buy a new master cylinder? I've tried finding them online and I can't just get the cylinder without the brake handle/lever attached? bc I like my levers they're adjustable and for now they suite me until I can save up and make the bike looker nicer. for now I just want it street worthy and safe. again any help is always appreciated brother
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is it possible to just buy the black portion with the reservoir and area in front with the area for wire connections. now these wires im assuming go to my brake lights? hence why when I put in new rear LED twilight it works as far as blinkers go, and constant running light but when I pull the brake lever no brake light... I didn't test the foot brake bc I didn't think of that until just now but its not completely illogical to assume those wires go to my brake lights correct?

Also, as far as my earlier question goes, in regard to that front sprocket with that retaining clip and broken bolts here is a picture of That front sprocket and chain. I hope you will forgive me for my ignorance because I'm a complete rookie to the "Bike Life," and I'm learning as I go here, but I think according to this picture its time for a new chain and sprockets. Wouldn't you agree? So I bought this kit off amazon as a matter of fact.
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I just can't seem to wrap my head around how this retaining clip bolts function? its a complete mystery to me because if the bolts only go through the retaining clip a mm or two, then how does it keep the sprocket from sliding at all? does it somehow tighten around those teeth to keep that sprocket from moving side to side or what? This question is completely and merely of curiousness. its probably something so simple and im sure im going to feel like a complete idiot when you or someone explains the functionality of it to me.

One last thing. so the manual calls for a 15/41 front & rear sprocket with 100 link VL2 Chain DID make. So I ordered 14/42 with 106 link chain kit and I figured with there breaker I got id break off the additional links.nBut the sprocket that is on my bike is a JTF36-14 and this kit sent me a JTF1539.14 and it is visibly more narrorwer than what is on my bike. is this ok to use. Here are the spec diagrams for both,
this is what was sent to me
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this is what is on my bike
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not sure what to do here....

thanks for any advice!
 
#10 ·
Your problem with the front brake is just the switch which you should be able to get through a dealer. It's on a LOT of models/years of ducs so they might have one on the shelf.
90% of the parts I've ever bought have had to be ordered though.
You should still be able to test the tail light by holding the 2 wires together.
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Replace that chain and sprocket, looks old and shitty.
A broken chain can destroy your engine case.
Use pic below for this next bit.
The retainer clip is splined, when you put it on you may need to rotate it a few times to get it on the shaft splines.
Fit it into the groove (red in pic) and you will need to rotate it until the bolt holes line up but the splines on the retainer don't slide out of the groove.
If you move the old sprocket so it's outer edge is against that groove you will see that the centre of your chain should be sitting over the ridge (blue in pic) of the chain guide, not where it is sitting in the pic.
Your new sprocket having a narrower shoulder will move the chain teeth about a quarter of an inch further outwards, which will also move the chain outwards as well.
This will put your chain to the out side of the guide and your chain won't be aligned properly.
Send that sprocket back and get them to send you one with the thicker shoulder.
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I'll finish with a disclaimer.
I'm not exactly sure which front sprocket your bike should have but I'm assuming that the old one is correct.
On the supersport 750 it has the thicker shoulder and the 900 has the thinner shoulder.
This is because the 900 has a wider rear wheel than the 750 so the chain needs to be further outwards to allow clearance for the wider tyre.
Hopefully another forum member with your model will confirm or ridicule this assumption.
 
#11 ·
hey thanks again for all the help. Ill be happy to let you know I've solved almost all my issues thanks to this site and you guys out there. so my no start problem was the battery, i must have killed it somehow and so i tried recharging it and no dice, this was why i thought a coil or something more. so i got my wiring sorted out and replaced the battery first before i went to the coils and boom bike starts, check done, now that part on my brake lever the brake light switch i did not see you post that in time so i ended up buying a new lever with new reservoir and decided to paint my brackets that hold my foot levers and pegs on, im getting it all back together but i cant seem to figure out how to properly bleed the clutch, i cleaned the slave and rod and greased it up and put it back in put new fluid in. I'm thinking it may be because that little push rod in the hand lever is my culprit or I just haven't been bleeding the lines correctly and that is why clutch will not engage when i hold lever down.
my other lighting issues with the new led front turn signals and taillight was so simple to stop all the lights from blinking like my hazards were on. i found this site explaining it all and all i needed was a diode IN4001 & bought it from this site but this is the website and this is where they explain why this happens and how to fix it once and for all if anyone is interested

4-Way / Hazard Blink Problem on Motorcycles with LED Turn Signals
 
#13 ·
Hey all its been some time since ive replied or posted. i went out and bought my self the HAYNES SERVICE & REPAIR MANUAL For Ducati 600, 620, 750 & 900 2-valve V-Twins '91-05 and its been a godsend for me and i dont have to annoy any of you guys on a daily basis lol.

So im posting today because ive been having that lean or rich problem. i warm the bike up choke down start riding and notice if i get heavy on that throttle i immediatly get sluggish but if im gentle im sorta good. I took the carb apart and cleaned out a whole mess of dirt and then also replaced my fuel filter who i must say helped somewhat.i have better acceleration for 1,2,&3 gears but 4th and 5th i get that sluggishness still. its so bad that i cant even get on the highway with this thing bc im scared to break down. now through the manual i was reading up about the carb and i adjusted the idle air speed and that helped me somewhat. but i feel as thogh the bike runs to hot and also isnt that great on gas the manual says about 1300 rpm to set it to and when i did it wouldnt stay running. so the manual says a complete overhaul may be necessary if you have poor performance ( CHECK) HArd Starting, stalling (CHECK), Flooding (CHECK CHECK), and backfiring (CHECK) are all signs of major carburettor maintenance may be required.
but in the nmext sentence it also says, " keep in mind that many so called carburettor problem,s are really not carb problems at all, but mechanical problems within the engine or ignition system malfunctions." So im thinking im gonna get me a carb rebuild kit and go from there. does anyone know of any cheap sites to get a kit or roughly how much one would run me? I cant take my bike to the dealer, like i initially triedto do and get all this done because they only fix older bikes like mine in the off season. so i have to wait till nov or december to fix it? or do what i been doing and slowly figure this **** out on my own. my dealer really pisses me off about that ****. its not like their crazy busy all the time wither u know? nbut i digress. from what i wrote above does anyone have any tips or ideas where i should start first? thanks again!!
 
#15 ·
Go and get yourself a Haynes manual it will have the wiring diagram for your bike and watch a few YouTube videos on the fundamentals of wiring and soldering and you can start there. During the course of COVID I became pretty good at soldering and wiring and I never done any of it before. It's just a matter of repetition and how bad you want to learn you know
 
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