Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, Im from Queens NYC but recently moved to Louisville KY with my wife and our 3n Kids. She wanted to move here to be by her family who relocated here from Chicago. So I said, "you wouldn't let me get a bike in NYC, although I grew up on dirt bikes and quads riding all over South Queens and Long Island. So if you want to move I get a bike.

Well I recently came into a little bit of cash and had my first opportunity to get myself a bike. I found on Facebook Marketplace a 99 Monster 750 for $2600 and had like 20K on the speedo. So I figiured I always wanted a Duc and don't want to drop thousands of dollars on a brand new bike bc chances are I may drop it, or worse lay it down. So here I am.

Now after purchasing the bike from a guy around my age or a few years older, mom in my 30s. I noticed on the ride home the bike had a slight wobble when I accelerated, come to find out, I need to do the Fork Seals, bc there seems to be a slight leak a "mechanic" I used informed me. I left him the bike and he did timing belt, tensioners bearings I put 2 new tires on it, as well as spark plugs, oil change, & replaced the air filter. I got the bike back and noticed that from time to time if im on the highway causing and I go to get on it after a bit in 5th if I accelerate a little harder than normal like to get over quickly the bike will begin to shrug and putt and then essentially dies on me and I see this being somewhat of a problem being that it would suck to get hit doing 70-80mph in the left lane and just stop and come to a rolling stop. I've found that if I adjust the choke or "Cold Start Lever," as the manual calls, the bike will rev back up (obviously) sop it won't die but the moment I try to accelerate and give it gas it dies. I thought maybe I was just twisting to much on the throttle and possibly flooding it, but it happened again on me when I was "Babying" the throttle. Any advice on this or if anyone has had similar issues with this it would be greatly appreciated.

My next question I need to replace the chain and sprockets and I ordered all the parts as called for from what I read online and this Ducati manual im putting a 14 in the front and I believe it was a 41 tooth, I ordered for the rear and a 520 x ring 100 link chain, please let me know if this correct and how hard is this job to do? I am pretty mechanically inclined on cars but have never worked on any bikes so I am very green here. Ive seen some laser realigning tool for the back wheel bc I've read it can be an issue if I don't do it right so any advice and or tips for doing this job is appreciated and also, im imagining this tool is not needed...Thoughts?

So today I received my front sprocket and rear sprocket, but still no chain, now how bad would it be if I was to put these 2 sprockets on and reused the old chain for a couple days until the new one comes or should I just not be dumb and be patient and wait? I also noticed when I removed the front sprocket that the 2 bolts that are in the sprocket were both broken off into it and my new sprocket did not come with the bolts or that washer doohickey I seen on a video of a front sprocket removal on a same year 900. out was around the center of the sprocket in the video and my bike didn't have one when I removed the cover to access the sprocket. My new sprocket also came with no bolts, but I went and tried to test fit some bolts and found that a 5mm by .8 pitch fit almost perfectly I figured id buy grade 10's but I do not know how long these bolts need to be. I figured id just use an extractor bit to get them out the old sprocket but I thought this may be faster. So is it imperative I get that washer doohickey thing (probably right? if it was there, it was for a reason, yeah? lol) and does anyone happen to know the lengths of the bolts that go into that front sprocket? My new one did not come

and finally I promise.... my speedo cable looks like it was pinched and cracked at the bottom toward the front tire, does anyone know how to repair this because my speedometer isnt working now, I can buy a new one from the local dealer but they tell me its going to be 7-10 days until the get one in, does anyone know of any on amazon that I could use because none come up for motorcycles it seems, I ask about amazon bc I have like a $200 credit on there and as a father with 3 kids and another due in July im trying to save a few bucks here and there if possible.

So there it is, there's everything I need to know and if anyone can help then your the ****in man so thank you! I look forward to talking with you guys some more and asking more dumbass questions that make you smh lol thanks again.....ill post some more updated pics of the bike shortly
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive lighting Sky
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
The speedo cable and sprocket I don't know but I'll say your running problem sounds like your actually lean. Turn choke on and it brings the air down to match the fuel lean but when you get on it, the air isn't there when needed again in volumes to burn the gas dumping now. Just my .02 cents on reading through. Where I would start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
So is it imperative I get that washer doohickey thing (probably right?
If the sprocket moves side to side along the shaft it MIGHT chew up the sprocket cover, chain guide and swing arm. If the bolts are too long they will chew the engine casting, just get them long enough that they don't come out the back of the sprocket by more than a couple of mm.
Ive seen some laser realigning tool
You have marks on the swingarm and the plates that the axle goes through. Use the marks to align the wheel.
So today I received my front sprocket and rear sprocket, but still no chain, now how bad would it be if I was to put these 2 sprockets on and reused the old chain
Wait for the chain.
You're going to want a rear stand to lift the back of the bike as you'll need to pull the wheel off to replace the rear sprocket.
Not sure of chain length but if it's not the right length you'll need a chain link remover.
my speedo cable looks like it was pinched and cracked at the bottom toward the front tire,
Pull the cable off and pull the inner cable out of the sleeve to see if its damaged before you buy anything.
If the cable has been pinched it might be the drive mechanism on the wheel that's the problem.
If you've got a front stand undo the cable from the speedo, spin the wheel and see if the cable inner turns as the wheel spins.

As for the engine issue it sounds like carby tune, crap in carby of a dirty fuel filter. Hopefully not ignition coils.
Maybe try some metho in the fuel to see if there's water in it from sitting and some carby cleaner but if it sat it could be bad fuel gumming the jets up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If the sprocket moves side to side along the shaft it MIGHT chew up the sprocket cover, chain guide and swing arm. If the bolts are too long they will chew the engine casting, just get them long enough that they don't come out the back of the sprocket by more than a couple of mm.

You have marks on the swingarm and the plates that the axle goes through. Use the marks to align the wheel.

Wait for the chain.
You're going to want a rear stand to lift the back of the bike as you'll need to pull the wheel off to replace the rear sprocket.
Not sure of chain length but if it's not the right length you'll need a chain link remover.

Pull the cable off and pull the inner cable out of the sleeve to see if its damaged before you buy anything.
If the cable has been pinched it might be the drive mechanism on the wheel that's the problem.
If you've got a front stand undo the cable from the speedo, spin the wheel and see if the cable inner turns as the wheel spins.

As for the engine issue it sounds like carby tune, crap in carby of a dirty fuel filter. Hopefully not ignition coils.
Maybe try some metho in the fuel to see if there's water in it from sitting and some carby cleaner but if it sat it could be bad fuel gumming the jets up.
wow thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate you answering all my questions from my novel up there! I don't have a front or back stand but I rigged some Jiggy mess up on my back porch and took 2 ratchet straps to the front thru the bars and one in the back and lifted my bike lol im a mess... I will get back to you with results. Again I can not thank you enough!

oh crap before I forget again there is a hose that comes out the side of the air box do you happen to know what that hose is called or what it does mine is a bit damaged, and finally when I lift my seat I have that little fuel filter canister and below that is what seems to be a plug with a cap that goes into the bottom of the tank with a wire "harness" that has a black and white wire coming from it. do you happen to know where those wires are supposed to go or connect to because mine are just hanging around for some reason. doesn't seem right to me. again thanks for the help. ill try and get some pics of my "jig rig" that is holding the bike up for a good laugh lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim


This is what I was asking about under the tank with the 1 wires coming from it
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive exterior


This is that hose I was asking about that goes from the air box down the Frame and to a black canister type box ....all on the left side of the tank.
Vertebrate Eyelash Jaw Gesture Finger


what is the name of this gasket? Donut gasket? flange? I can't seem to find one. it goes in the exhaust at the bottom of the motor where exhaust meets the motor. will show exact location in next picture
.
Automotive tire Helmet Glove Gas Personal protective equipment

this is where that metal gasket/flange thing is located and I noticed smoke coming from this one day and replaced the gaskets and that thing fell out but only half was there, I guess previous owner lost the other half? idk

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Fuel tank Sky
Tire Fuel tank Wheel Automotive fuel system Vehicle
Car Wheel Cloud Tire Plant

the last 2 are just more pics of the bike and this is my 29 month old son Junior with that Dope Ducati shirt chilling on his monster lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
1st pic. should be the sender for your low fuel light.
2nd. The canister under the seat is pollution gear.
Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting

It starts at the valve circled, runs to the canister and then to the air box so the engine burns any oily air generated by the crank case.
Some people just put a small filter on the valve.
If the engine has been over filled with oil the canister can have a bit of oil in it.
3.its best to have both of those half bushes in place or the exhaust may, or may not be sealing properly on the gasket.
They go under the cast iron ring that bolts the exhaust on.
Is the other half trapped in the heat wrap?
Font Handwriting Line Musical instrument Parallel


The diagram is deceiving, the half bushes are there to lock the ring in place around the pipe.

Handy resource for you.
The parts diagrams are handy and it tells you if the parts are available through ducati.
If the list has a price your dealer can get it for you.

Good to see you getting the boy into bikes early.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
oh hey one last question before I get my butt to work on all this great info you gave me. my wife don't like all the time I spend on the bike now but she thought it was cool how everyone here looks out for one another and helps out when and how they can. Just wanted to let you guys know that.... Anyway, back to business... so I noticed on my right brakes the master cylinder has two wires going to it with a small metal connector coming out of it, so one of those metal connectors broke off. its the one furthest away from the handle bars, so the outside one I suppose you'd say? irregardless whoever owned the bike prior had ran 2 new wires with a spade connector and tried to solder it on. but yeah the issue is now there's no metal piece there anymore and a hanging wire. so my question is, is there anyway to fix this or I have to buy a new master cylinder? I've tried finding them online and I can't just get the cylinder without the brake handle/lever attached? bc I like my levers they're adjustable and for now they suite me until I can save up and make the bike looker nicer. for now I just want it street worthy and safe. again any help is always appreciated brother
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bicycle handlebar Vehicle

is it possible to just buy the black portion with the reservoir and area in front with the area for wire connections. now these wires im assuming go to my brake lights? hence why when I put in new rear LED twilight it works as far as blinkers go, and constant running light but when I pull the brake lever no brake light... I didn't test the foot brake bc I didn't think of that until just now but its not completely illogical to assume those wires go to my brake lights correct?

Also, as far as my earlier question goes, in regard to that front sprocket with that retaining clip and broken bolts here is a picture of That front sprocket and chain. I hope you will forgive me for my ignorance because I'm a complete rookie to the "Bike Life," and I'm learning as I go here, but I think according to this picture its time for a new chain and sprockets. Wouldn't you agree? So I bought this kit off amazon as a matter of fact.
Crankset Gear Bicycle chain Bicycle part Automotive tire


I just can't seem to wrap my head around how this retaining clip bolts function? its a complete mystery to me because if the bolts only go through the retaining clip a mm or two, then how does it keep the sprocket from sliding at all? does it somehow tighten around those teeth to keep that sprocket from moving side to side or what? This question is completely and merely of curiousness. its probably something so simple and im sure im going to feel like a complete idiot when you or someone explains the functionality of it to me.

One last thing. so the manual calls for a 15/41 front & rear sprocket with 100 link VL2 Chain DID make. So I ordered 14/42 with 106 link chain kit and I figured with there breaker I got id break off the additional links.nBut the sprocket that is on my bike is a JTF36-14 and this kit sent me a JTF1539.14 and it is visibly more narrorwer than what is on my bike. is this ok to use. Here are the spec diagrams for both,
this is what was sent to me
Font Parallel Circle Auto part Line art

this is what is on my bike
Font Pattern Circle Symmetry Drawing


not sure what to do here....

thanks for any advice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Your problem with the front brake is just the switch which you should be able to get through a dealer. It's on a LOT of models/years of ducs so they might have one on the shelf.
90% of the parts I've ever bought have had to be ordered though.
You should still be able to test the tail light by holding the 2 wires together.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle

Colorfulness Font Screenshot Multimedia Software

Replace that chain and sprocket, looks old and shitty.
A broken chain can destroy your engine case.
Use pic below for this next bit.
The retainer clip is splined, when you put it on you may need to rotate it a few times to get it on the shaft splines.
Fit it into the groove (red in pic) and you will need to rotate it until the bolt holes line up but the splines on the retainer don't slide out of the groove.
If you move the old sprocket so it's outer edge is against that groove you will see that the centre of your chain should be sitting over the ridge (blue in pic) of the chain guide, not where it is sitting in the pic.
Your new sprocket having a narrower shoulder will move the chain teeth about a quarter of an inch further outwards, which will also move the chain outwards as well.
This will put your chain to the out side of the guide and your chain won't be aligned properly.
Send that sprocket back and get them to send you one with the thicker shoulder.
Crankset Gear Automotive tire Bicycle part Bicycle chain

I'll finish with a disclaimer.
I'm not exactly sure which front sprocket your bike should have but I'm assuming that the old one is correct.
On the supersport 750 it has the thicker shoulder and the 900 has the thinner shoulder.
This is because the 900 has a wider rear wheel than the 750 so the chain needs to be further outwards to allow clearance for the wider tyre.
Hopefully another forum member with your model will confirm or ridicule this assumption.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top