New Fish - reverse shifting rearsets?

2010 Views 25 Replies 13 Participants Last post by kopfjager, Nov 22, 2006

dietDrThunder

Discussion Starter · Nov 20, 2006

Hi all!

I'm planning to race an S2R next season, and I'm trying to find rearsets that have the ability to be set up w. GP, or "reverse" shifting. I did search here and I found a couple of links, but I've emailed vendors and the only answer I'm getting is that there is no reverse shif rearset setup available for this bike.

Does anyone here actually have their bike set up this way? I haven't bought the bike yet, and if it isn't possible (I know, anything is possible) to have GP shift, that will be a deal breaker. My buddies are racing 800SS's and I thought it would be fun to do something different. Besides, SS's are ugly

Can anyone help me out? Thanks in advance!

Dave Arkle
WERA Expert #13
DoD #11011

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

rule62

· #2 · Nov 20, 2006

GP shift is an easy mod with or without aftermarket rear-sets. Just flip the piece that connects the shifter linkage to the trans 180 degrees and voile... GP shift. [thumbsup]

Or you can spend an extra $50 bones on a solid shifter bar that connects directly to the trans (where the 180 flip piece is) and eliminate the linkage altogether.

I did the 180 flip on my stock linkage and I love it.

fasterblkduc

· #3 · Nov 20, 2006

Cycle Cat makes a gp shift lever. It is just the lever itself so it eliminates the linkage from the stock rearset. The lever attaches directly to the gearbox. You can do what was described above or get this lever and eliminate the linkage. The nice thing about this lever is you get a better feel when shifting because you don't have all the slop of the stock linkage.
I've done it both ways on different bikes. I currently have the upside down shift knuckle as described above on my race monster and I find it really hard to do two hard downshifts. I'm going to get the lever or convert it back to regular shift.

elpato

· #4 · Nov 20, 2006

If you are planning on racing go ahead and buy the direct link that connects to the counter shaft. You want to take all the play out of the shifting mechanism as possible. Just pull off you the left foot peg and take off the linkage and just hook up that bar you will be set up for "GP" shifting. Give yourself a few practice sessions to get it to memory and you will not want to go back. Good luck

Pato

larakat

· #5 · Nov 20, 2006

dietDrThunder said:
Hi all!

I'm planning to race an S2R next season, and I'm trying to find rearsets that have the ability to be set up w. GP, or "reverse" shifting. I did search here and I found a couple of links, but I've emailed vendors and the only answer I'm getting is that there is no reverse shif rearset setup available for this bike.

Does anyone here actually have their bike set up this way? I haven't bought the bike yet, and if it isn't possible (I know, anything is possible) to have GP shift, that will be a deal breaker. My buddies are racing 800SS's and I thought it would be fun to do something different. Besides, SS's are ugly

Can anyone help me out? Thanks in advance!

Dave Arkle
WERA Expert #13
DoD #11011

Agreed SSs are ugly compared to the S2R.

;D

dietDrThunder

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 20, 2006

Thanks all!

Ya, I thought when I looked at pics that one or both of those solutions would work, but I wasn't sure. On some bikes the shift rod thing (the part on the motor) is not in a good spot to put a shifter directly on it...and it looked like the knuckle _might_ interfere with the clutch clave irf flipped over. I'm glad to hear none of those things are at issue here. Nice!

Oh, and I've been racing w. GP shift for a couple of years now...no getting used to it needed

Thanks folks!

nissontek

· #7 · Nov 20, 2006

rule62 said:
GP shift is an easy mod with or without aftermarket rear-sets. Just flip the piece that connects the shifter linkage to the trans 180 degrees and voile... GP shift. [thumbsup]

Or you can spend an extra $50 bones on a solid shifter bar that connects directly to the trans (where the 180 flip piece is) and eliminate the linkage altogether.

I did the 180 flip on my stock linkage and I love it.

SO SIMPLE IT IS GENIUS! i am doing it tomorrow. oh, maybe i should wait until spring. sure would hate to forget that i did it next year! would make an interesting take off out of the garage. [laugh]

dietDrThunder

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 20, 2006

dietDrThunder said:
Thanks all!

Ya, I thought when I looked at pics that one or both of those solutions would work, but I wasn't sure. On some bikes the shift rod thing (the part on the motor) is not in a good spot to put a shifter directly on it...and it looked like the knuckle _might_ interfere with the clutch clave irf flipped over. I'm glad to hear none of those things are at issue here. Nice!

Oh, and I've been racing w. GP shift for a couple of years now...no getting used to it needed

Thanks folks!

I forgot, I can't do the direct-lever method cuz I'd have noplace for the quick shifter...gotta have the linkage. Thanks again!

zarn02

· #9 · Nov 20, 2006

yeah, the linkage is close to interfering with the clutch slave, but it works. i've been running reverse-pattern shift since the spring, or so. love it. [thumbsup]

dietDrThunder

Discussion Starter · #10 · Nov 21, 2006

Jumpin' Jehosephat, peeps sure are proud of Monster rearsets ain't they? Yikes! I can buy 2 complete sets of Woodcraft 800SS rearsets, or a set or rearsets and a quick shifter, for the price of a set of Monster ones...damn.

I was thinkin' today...I wonder how hard it would be to have some plates made tht you could, in turn, mount some common rearsets to...like say, GSXR 600 ones or summat. That way if you ever broke one at the track you'd be able to find a spare. Has anyone looked into this?

I don't want to seem sily, but at $550-$600 per, rearsets might be a deal breaker...I can't drop $500 every time the bike tips over. I mean, I know they _probably_ won't break, but they might.

fasterblkduc

· #11 · Nov 21, 2006

I know someone who did just what you are talking about. I'll pm him and see if he will post pics in this thread.

I understand the apprehension towards racing expensive rearsets. I can say that I've crash tested cycle cats on two bikes. The most damage was ground down pegs. They hold up pretty good to racetrack crashes...(in my experience)

hiero

· #12 · Nov 21, 2006

3

dietDrThunder said:
Jumpin' Jehosephat, peeps sure are proud of Monster rearsets ain't they? Yikes! I can buy 2 complete sets of Woodcraft 800SS rearsets, or a set or rearsets and a quick shifter, for the price of a set of Monster ones...damn.

I was thinkin' today...I wonder how hard it would be to have some plates made tht you could, in turn, mount some common rearsets to...like say, GSXR 600 ones or summat. That way if you ever broke one at the track you'd be able to find a spare. Has anyone looked into this?

I don't want to seem sily, but at $550-$600 per, rearsets might be a deal breaker...I can't drop $500 every time the bike tips over. I mean, I know they _probably_ won't break, but they might.

you can probably come up with an adapter, but with the big ass nut in the middle on the s*r bikes, it's a little more complicated than just a plate with holes

fwiw, a set of cycle cat rearsets hold up VERY well in crashes and every individual piece is available separately so you don't have to buy a new rearset every time you crash, I know all too well:

I lowsided a few months ago and these are the only things that happened to my cyclecat rearsets.
First pic, the hard mounted peg actually served as a really badass slider (as you can see, it slid quite a bit)

the second pic, the forces of the crash actually deformed one of the adjustment holes

that's a lot of force to deform a billet piece like that. fortunately, the system uses a pin to match up holes on that piece shown to holes on the mating half, the pin held up just fine and I just used another hole to mount the leg, no big deal.

a new peg and a new cycle cat handlebar (the CC clipons held up VERY well too, offering me similar 'slider' type protection shown here (unfortunately didn't stop a tank ding, but *shrug* otherwise saved a lot of the rest of the bike):

but a new peg and a new bar cost me $53 to get me back on the road, and I really didn't NEED a new bar to ride, just got one because i wanted to.

hell, if you've got a machinist friend, you could make new pegs for even cheaper than that too [thumbsup]

btw, mine's a 750, so it's a different rearset system, but the quality and adjustment system is the same in the CC products

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Desmo Elmer

· #13 · Nov 21, 2006

Yes those CC rearsets are obscenely expensive IMO.

I made rearsets for my bastard M800 with S2R swingarm for 15 bucks, but I have a M800 frame so the mounting brackets were alreay there on the frame. The S2R rearsets mount to the swingarm pivot bolt so you would have to weld some mounting tabs like om the "M" models to do what I did but a pretty simple job IMO.

This is the only pic I have currently showing the diy rearsets, but I'll snap another. I intend to spruce them up a bit with some holes and routing, but they work great just like this.

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silentbob

· #14 · Nov 21, 2006

dietDrThunder said:
Jumpin' Jehosephat, peeps sure are proud of Monster rearsets ain't they? Yikes! I can buy 2 complete sets of Woodcraft 800SS rearsets, or a set or rearsets and a quick shifter, for the price of a set of Monster ones...damn.

I was thinkin' today...I wonder how hard it would be to have some plates made tht you could, in turn, mount some common rearsets to...like say, GSXR 600 ones or summat. That way if you ever broke one at the track you'd be able to find a spare. Has anyone looked into this?

I don't want to seem sily, but at $550-$600 per, rearsets might be a deal breaker...I can't drop $500 every time the bike tips over. I mean, I know they _probably_ won't break, but they might.

If you are getting an S2R you will already have SBK rearsets and can corner as far as your tires will allow and they will fold up in a crash.

Qfactor

· #15 · Nov 21, 2006

rearsets are designed to hold up to most crashes. Pegs should be designed to snap without damaging the rearsets.

I saw first hand the R&D of Eric Woods rearsets for the 675, and I rest assured about the above theory.

Q

dietDrThunder

Discussion Starter · #16 · Nov 21, 2006

qfactor said:
rearsets are designed to hold up to most crashes. Pegs should be designed to snap without damaging the rearsets.

I saw first hand the R&D of Eric Woods rearsets for the 675, and I rest assured about the above theory.

Q

"Should" and "are" don't always mesh unfortunately though. The only track crash I've ever had twisted the Woodcraft rearset on my R6 into junk, and the peg didn't break off. I've never seen one break off actually. I've seen about a zillion of them bend, but they don't typically break off. I've only worked on fixing maybe 12-15 rearsets post-crash, so obviously that's not a representative sample, but you'd think at least _one_ of 'em woulda broken.

Also, one of the great things about Woodcraft is that you can buy the individual parts seperately for crash damage repair. ALso, Eric keeps the designs simple and the prices low. I typically buy 2 complete sets of rearsets for a racebike, so that I know I"ll have spares. I'm not looking forward to doing this on the Monster, where it would cost me $1200 to do so.

Desmo Elmer

· #17 · Nov 21, 2006

My DIY footpeg broke off nicely in a crash. ;D Rearset remained undamaged. All I had to do is replace the bolt that holds it on and good to go.

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kopfjager

· #18 · Nov 21, 2006

Is that the DSL2

Desmo Elmer

· #19 · Nov 21, 2006

It's a DSL 1 with an extended toe piece/eccentric.

Qfactor

· #20 · Nov 21, 2006

dietDrThunder said:
"Should" and "are" don't always mesh unfortunately though. The only track crash I've ever had twisted the Woodcraft rearset on my R6 into junk, and the peg didn't break off. I've never seen one break off actually. I've seen about a zillion of them bend, but they don't typically break off. I've only worked on fixing maybe 12-15 rearsets post-crash, so obviously that's not a representative sample, but you'd think at least _one_ of 'em woulda broken.

Also, one of the great things about Woodcraft is that you can buy the individual parts seperately for crash damage repair. ALso, Eric keeps the designs simple and the prices low. I typically buy 2 complete sets of rearsets for a racebike, so that I know I"ll have spares. I'm not looking forward to doing this on the Monster, where it would cost me $1200 to do so.

I agree, and that's why racing ain't cheap...

A reason that manfacturer never mention crash worthiness on race parts is because there are no 2 crashes that are the same. Each track related crash is unique, therefore it's very very hard to design anything race bike worthy and it be "crash resistant". Then the whole weight vs. robustness of parts come into play, etc...

blah blah blah blah blah.....

Q

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