[Guest]

Hello All:

I just bought a new 2003 620 Monster (still stock). Finally got it out this weekend to start breaking her in. Everything was running smooth, and then at a stop light shifting from neutral into first it stalled. I first thougt maybe I popped the clutch (still getting used to the wet clutch), but then it kept happening. Temp was around 240. Was tough to fire up after stalling to. Seems to keep happening going in to first, and also backfired a few times. Called the dealer (although the duc mechanic was off) but he recommended pulling the plugs. I have not done that yet. The bike only has 70 miles. Can they be fouled already?

Any help would be appreciated. I just switched from Jap bikes (always changing plugs) and love the Italian engineering. I hate to be replacing plugs all the time though; especially on a brand new bike. Thanks in advance for your reply.

 

[Guest]

Everything you described PghDuc exactly was happening to my '03 M620. 1st I thought my skills were rusty because I was stalling the bike. But that wasn't disturbing as much as having tough time to restart the bike, especially when I'm in a middle of the intersection trying to make a left turn. Again I thought it was me panicing (can't be my brand new Ducati ) and making a fool out of myself congesting traffic.
So after a few unpleasent moments, finally I started questioning why is the engine idling at 600 rpms when the engine is warm and showing temperature of 242? Why do I have to start my engine always with a choke even if I'm on a short gas pump stop?
So I made a couple of long runs (was careful on my starts with rpms before releasing the clutch to avoid stalling) and got quickly to the very expensive 1st 620 miles service (Why? $80 per hour labor and they charged 2.5 hours is the spanking) where I pointed out the problem.
Next day service says service completed and problem solved. Not being tech savvy, I took their word, picked up the bike haven't stalled it since (couple of months now) although the engine idle is at 900 rpms while engine warm, one thing for sure stays the same: I always have to start the bike with choke, even if I made a quick stop.

So, should I change the spark plugs? Are NGKs recommended brand?

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

Do you recall what the diagnostic problem was from the mechanic? My bike still seems to fire up pretty easily when cold. It has only been a few times the same day when she kept stalling out. I do not think the idle is that low; I will have to double check.

So did you switch the plugs with NGKs? Whats the difference?

 

[Guest]

I had similar problem on my S4. For me the solution was simple enough I just adjusted my idle to about 1,100. haven't had a problem since.

 

[Guest]

Do you recall what the diagnostic problem was from the mechanic?

 

[Guest]

Hi all

I just bought a 620 Dark back in march and I believe M.O.M.
states that the idle speed on the 620 should be 1000rpm

 

[Guest]

I pulled the plugs tonight - looked pretty fouled already. The mechanic said he has seen the stock champion plugs foul with as little as 10 miles on them. The short starts and stops (that occur during the test ride and inspection) can really foul them up. Also said that they are advised by Ducati to change out the plugs with NGKs at the 600 mile maintenance. Guess I didn't make it. Of course the guy at the shop gave me a set of the wrong NGKs. Nothing like having a brand new duc sitting in the garage. Hopefully the plugs do the trick and it is not an idle peed or more serious problem. I will keep you informed.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[mallarij]

I had the exact problem with my bike. I just recharged my batteries and changed my plugs (NGK's) and now its running perfect. I bet you'll have no problem once you change the plug....

 

[Guest]

Well, I'll give it a try and swap the spark plugs with NGKs ($7 excercize) over the weekend.

Thought I bump the very helpful links from belikeh20's post in mallarij's 750 topic for reference:

Cross-reference chart Champion to NGK:
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/championobly-z12.htm

Sparkplug examination guide:
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

Changed the crappy champion plugs with NGKs (3932 DCPR7E) (thanks for the cross reference web page redpower). Fired right up; without the idle speed adjuster I might add. Didn't get a chance to get it good and warm; thats when it seemed to happen last time. Hopefully will get it out this weekend and give it a good running.

The bottom plug seemed more fouled than the vertical. Indicative of anything? Idle is around 1000 so I think I am good. Funny how duc puts crappy plugs in for stock, when everything else is so highend.

While I was tinkering, I noticed that all four bolts (12 mm) at the bottom of the front forks where the axle goes in were super loose. Didn't seem like anything around that area should be loose so I tightened em down. Was I right in doing so or are they for something else? Was the technician who assembled the bike just slacking? Heck of a mistake if so, especially if discovered cruising down the road and the front wheel comes loose.

Can anyone tell me where I can get a decent repair manual? The general manual is pretty useless.

 

[Guest]

HEy I had the same problem kept stallin' from a stand still, could have been me but whe I took it in for the 600 the tehc said something about having to re-sync it, I don't know what that means but since then it idles a little higher and almost purrs!!!!!!

 

[Guest]

Hey i had the same problem kept stailln' and wouldn't stay running even when warm took it in for the 600 and the tech said something about a low idle and having to re-sync it, whatever that means??? anywasy since then it idles higher and runs great!!

 

[Guest]

PghDuc, the NGK spark plugs didn't do the magic for me, therefore I'm about to go threw the hassle of dealer service.
Let me see, where's my check book?

 

[Guest]

Attempted to take a long ride this weekend. Made it about 10 miles, bike running around 200 degrees; began stalling. Always going in to first, backfire, dies when I get on the throttle. Otherwise, it is idling around 1000 rpm. This was with the new NGKs mind you.

Loaded the bike in the truck tonight - out to the dealer with an unhappy customer. Laid in to them about the fork bolts not being tightened down. I am hoping for a big discount on my new bar end mirrors for my pain and suffering.

I will let you know the verdict.

 

[jrfuisz]

My 02 M620 has been fine. I run it everyday to work. I've experienced a similar symptom but in very specific conditions.

On days when I am in heavy traffic I notice the engine run worse and worse. Throwing extra throttle at the engine does not help. I can almost induce the symptom by blimping the throttel as I wait and build up the unburnt gas in the system. Eventually it will backfire and/or it will bog and try to die. A quick blip to save the stall and running it out at higher RPM (with ample engine braking) tends to clear the engine. It takes a little doing though - it is not a super quick fix. Running it out a bit after boging the engine down takes some doing. It runs fine after that.

I'm also very mindful about only running the choke until it will idle without it. About 2 minutes. I'll keep adjusting the idle so it is idling as slow as possible without stalling. It is noticeable when I run choke all the way to work. Not good either.

I also suggest getting rid of the excess slack in the throttle cable. It tends to stretch which makes the choke worthless (all on or all off) and makes you run more choke than you need. The choke should actually have multiple settings which means you can cut it back on hot days and turn it down quicker.

The M620 has issues and is not an easy ride in some respects. The fact that it still has a manual choke speaks for itself.

 

[Guest]

Sorry to hear about your spoiled weekend PghDuc. I have yet to make an appointment with my local service, since the Ducati tech was taking some time off - good for him. My bolts were also loose before my 1st 620 miles service, but I wasn't alarmed, because I immediately tightened them.


jrfuisz, I'm using similar techniques to prevent stalling, but I'm tired of hassling and hoping the tech can solve my issues:
- engine when warm ( I had it up to 262 ) idles at 500-600 rpm
- very diificult to restart the engine when warm. I wish it could start as easy as when the engine is cold.
I cannot imagine this is a difficult fix.

 

[jrfuisz]

Your idle is way to slow which is why your plugs are fouling.

Per p. 34 of the manual you will need choke any time "ambient" (not engine temp) is below 35C (roughly 90+. Idle during warm up should be 1400-1500 rpm. Engine temperature is not what you go by. When the engine is warm it should hold the idle (read 1400) on its own. My bike idles at 1200+ (it varies depending on the riding I'm doing but is never below 1000 rpm).

A pliers and twist of the idle screw should solve that problem. It may seem counterintuitive to add more gas when an engine is fouling, but the issue has more to do with the effectiveness (or lack of) of your lower piston.

 

[Guest]

thanks jrfuisz for the note. I just came back from the local dealer and he says my bike is running very lean because of the DP titanium high slip-ons. He adjusted the idle, it still struggles but starts up when warm without choke, however he recommends adding TFI box which will enhance mio makina running and eliminate the problem of stalling.

What say monster.org expert panel? Is it worth it?

I guess I'll look threw the search option

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

TFI box ?

 

[Guest]

Oooh, you mean like PowerCommander ?

Well I did the DP high Titanium & open filter. The bike runned like s***t. Later I took it to the dealer and had CO adjusted. it runs perfect. I think that performance enhancement from a PCIII would be noticable. So far bike runs perfect without it.