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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
Just got a tacky and neglected 99 M900S Dark w/17k in a trade. Previous owner had for 16 years and only put 3k miles on it. PO was not mechanically inclined and when it wouldn't start it sat. Has sat for MANY years. The PO before him did some very questionable mods and a few good ones. Neither owners ever had it serviced so it's likely it could be on the factory belts. Currently working to bring back to stockish. Will be starting a budget build thread soon to document it for myself as well as for others if interested. YAY! Haha
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Pics

Here are more pics and the post must be a certain length so I am typing randomly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Picked up bike.

Both tires flat and more plastic than rubber. Front tire had 2.5 psi and rear tire had 5 psi. Filled to spec. Still holding air. They have good tread. Replace or save money and break them in? I'm a gambling man who lives on the edge.

Gas cap lock only turned half way. Used universal gas cap key to pick and turn lock to halfway point. Plus side of the universal gas cap key is you can remove after turning. Removed it and turned lock with proper sized flat head screwdriver and a little persuasion. Removed cap assembly and sprayed brake cleaner into tumbler. Used key to then actuate lock a few times. Repeated this until lock operated as should. Cap spray painted matte black so kept eye out for gold and silver cap as stock would be.

Sprocket cover spray painted yellow by Mr. Squid. Located stock cover for $10 shipped.

Over zealous tail chop done by Mr. Squid which included lopping off the seat lock. Tag "bracket" was two strips of what looked like house door trim. Located used Competition Werkes tail kit with blinker brackets for $49 shipped. Going to install stock tail light, blinkers and tag light. Need rear harness as well since Mr. Squid hacked up rear harness to "install" an integrated led tail light.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Located stock gold and silver gas cap. Swapped lock cylinder over. $18 shipped.

Located seat lock assembly, key side. Will shuffle tumblers or remove if necessary and fab up new location for lock somewhere eventually. $12 shipped.

Located right carbon fiber heat shield for exhaust to replace a cracked one, stock tool kit, stock tail light and four stock blinkers for $70 shipped.

PO never did service in the 16 years he had it and mentioned the person he bought it from, Mr. Squid, never did service either. Would not be surprised if it currently has the factory belts.

Pulled carbs. Red clay colored silt in bottom of carb bowls. Otherwise decently clean inside. All seals need to be replaced. Purchased viton seal kit from LiteTek for $29 shipped. Have used before and they are quality seals. Have experience with this type of carb since a version of these are also used on the FZR1000. Knew emulsion tubes would need replacement due to mileage. Typically wear out around 12k - 15k since these were the first down draft carbs to be mass produced and that's their design flaw. I usually just buy new stock ones for $15 but my prefered site was down so went to ebay to find some new ones there. Was looking to free shipping and similar price but stumbled on some used Factory Pro nickel plated emulsion tubes that don't wear out. Snapped up for $14 each shipped. If you need emulsion tubes and don't want to spend $75 for the pair from Factory Pro just get some new ones for 89 and up FZR1000s. They are good for 12k - 15k and are typ $15 each new.
 

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DynoJet Stage 2 jet kit came installed in carbs. No slide drilling was required for that kit so have the opportunity to switch to a Factory Pro kit in the future if I want. Currently not a concern since it's basically free and does the job according to some. Factory Pro is typically my go to when coming from stock tho.

Seat came uncovered with a new seat cover included. Attempted to recover with an electric stapler. No go. Pneumatic seems to be the way to go. Called local place that does motorcycle upholstery and they quoted me $100 to basically staple cover on. Nope! Found used good condition stock seat for $60 plus shipping.

Carb bodies are pretty clean on inside so used Krud Kutter and a toothbrush to clean the exterior. Came out nice.
 

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Engine valve, inspection and belt covers were painted yellow by Mr. Squid. Will be returning to stock colors. Currently have CitriStrip applied to valve and inspection covers. Really hoping Mr. Squid didn't powder coat these covers.

Left side oil cooler line stuck out to me. Literally. Upon inspection and comparison to other bikes I discovered that the oil cooler lines were installed upside down by Mr. Squid because of course they were. Reinstalled as they should be.
 

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Cleaned tank out twice using a half gallon of Klean Strip phosphoric acid and water. Quite possibly the nastiest tank I've ever run across. Went to drain the tank after the first cleaning and when I pulled the ziploc bag and hose clamp off the fuel sensor opening I got nothing. Looked closer and the opening was PACKED with a black silt like substance. Had to use screwdriver to it knock loose. Keep in mind that this opening has a diameter of roughly 1.25" so low flow, let alone no flow, should've never been a problem.

All manner of **** continued to come out via flushing. Did a second round of cleaning with the remaining half gallon of phosphoric and continued to get a lot of crud out. Fuel outlet was particularly stubborn though. Possibly the worst location/design of a fuel outlet I can think of. Had to unclog that area with fuzzy sticks from the craft section since they don't carry pipe cleaners in the tobacco section anymore. Pfft. Finally got good flow after 10 or so fuzzy sticks. Tank now good but might've just bought nice used tank if I knew how much **** was in it from the get go.
 

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Good News: Learned that rear stand spools are on the swing arm from the factory! Touch o' Class right there!

Bad News: Valves are so tight on the vertical cylinder I can't get measurements on the opening shims and can only get a measurement on the intake closing shim of 0.002". YAY!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Went out to double check all the clearances a few times.

VIO=0.0015"
VIC=0.0055" (0.007" Loaded)

VEO=0.0015" (tight)
VEC=0.000"

HIO=0.003"
HIC=0.003" (0.006" Loaded)

HEO=0.003"
HEC=0.001" (0.004" Loaded)
 

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Replaced chintzy sprocket cover with stock version. Replaced broken CF heat shield with non broken one.
 

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Swapped lock cylinder over to clean stock gas cap. Installed stock rear harness, tag light and tail light.
 

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Valve and cam covers are stripped and ready for paint. CitriStrip worked well and didn't give me cancer. Belt covers ready for scruff and paint. Currently going thru valves. Not much to bike when stripped down. Enjoying the bike so far and will be even better when it runs! Haha
 

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Welp, that tank WAS really bad. Now that the bulk of the **** and rust is removed and it's had time to breathe pinholes have appeared. Had an oil cooled GSXR tank that was just as bad if not worse do the same thing. Either clean 100% with evaporust/metal rescue @ $20 a gallon x 5 plus hole repair $$$ or find a used tank. Damn tank has no dents or anything either. Sucks.
 

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Narrowed down to electrolysis for any remaining rust and Seal-All for the pinholes or a used tank. Very tempted to try the science experiment. No radiator shops around here any more. Fuel tank repair places are a couple hours away at least if they even do motorcycle tanks. If they do work on motorcycle tanks their prices are right up there with near mint used tanks so not worth it when you will have to repaint the tank afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Went over tank to find all pinholes under the paint. Ended up being a couple dozen. Tank not worth a lot of effort. Used a pick to find and punch out the rust. Used a dremel to get down to clean metal around the pinhole. Used a business card to fill the holes with Seal-All and keep it thin on the tank surface. Have used Seal-All before in gas applications and it works wonders. Never used for pinholes but it came highly recommended from the internet. Ha. Hit with matte black after Seal-All dried as is. May sand and hit with filler primer but tank not really worth it. Will rock it with the battle scars for now.

Think brand of phosphoric acid I typically use is not as strong as it was. One soak used to wipe everything out and now not so much. Either that or I've simply had a run of really nasty tanks. Also don't see much difference after second phosphoric soak. Will be using muriatic acid for first attack and then follow up with phosphoric to remove flash rust and get the iron phosphate etching next time. Found a decent used tank but is yellow and dunno about yellow. Lol

Painted inspection and cam covers with satin silver high temp paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Picked up rust free tank for $135 plus shipping. Yellow not my first choice but maybe I need to have a sunnier disposition. Going to come back to bad tank when weather warms up. High 50s / low 60s seems to be too cold to get best out of whatever acid cleaner.
 

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Opener shims adjusted. Used sandpaper and micrometer since all were tight. One closer can be measured and sanded, one closer is good as is and the other two will need larger. Belts getting replaced as well of course.
 

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Thanks! Will the ending be a comedy or a tragedy? Guess it could be both. Haha
 
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