Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

Can anyone help me here? Why is this happening? OEM everything except pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
define the issue, can't tell from the picture what you are having a problem with.

Kind of looks lie the ourt (piston) side of caliper is bent? Pad missing?

I have never seen this happen. Is the casting broken by the bolt ears?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
define the issue, can't tell from the picture what you are having a problem with.

Kind of looks lie the ourt (piston) side of caliper is bent? Pad missing?

I have never seen this happen. Is the casting broken by the bolt ears?
Left rotor is rubbing against caliper carrier, it happened on the old forks and is happening againg with the 'new' forks...if you notice, there's a brighter stripe of metal on the rotor where is rubbing..,
When reinstalling, I dabbed some caliper grease onthe guide pins of the calipers and the right side is OK, and shouldn't be, it's the fork that caused me to get 'new' forks after the accident...
Cannot get camera in any other angle to get better shot, sorry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Bump.....help!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
maybe missing a shim or washer between caliper & fork?

if the fork slightly twisted? did you bounce it before tightening the pinch bolts?

just some ideas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
maybe missing a shim or washer between caliper & fork?

if the fork slightly twisted? did you bounce it before tightening the pinch bolts?

just some ideas
Yes, I did bounce it... all parts accounted for..."new" used forks, prepped by RaceTech...Rh inner tube was 2~3mm bent to the inside...

Has the bike been down?
Yes, on the right side not left...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Well just from the small PIC you posted and what you stated, I am going to take a shot in the dark and say that you bent something when you dropped it. The tolerances are tight so it doesn't always take allot to tweak things out of specs.
If it was me I would check to be sure that you didn't bend something. Just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well just from the small PIC you posted and what you stated, I am going to take a shot in the dark and say that you bent something when you dropped it. The tolerances are tight so it doesn't always take allot to tweak things out of specs.
If it was me I would check to be sure that you didn't bend something. Just a thought.
As I said, the low side was to the right and this issue has long been happening even before the low side.
I had to replace the forks since the Rh one, WAS[is] bent, so I got this pair in perfect shape[few scratches] but otherwise, perfect; same issue...
Sorry, my $650.00/month salary doesn't allow me to get a MP camera and have to take photos with my 2.8mp cell phone camera...Did try to 'edit' to the best of my habilities the photo so it would be clearer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
As I said, the low side was to the right and this issue has long been happening even before the low side.
I had to replace the forks since the Rh one, WAS[is] bent, so I got this pair in perfect shape[few scratches] but otherwise, perfect; same issue...
Sorry, my $650.00/month salary doesn't allow me to get a MP camera and have to take photos with my 2.8mp cell phone camera...Did try to 'edit' to the best of my habilities the photo so it would be clearer.
OK well good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
OK well good luck
sorry,didn't mean to sound rude or the like, is just that you mentioned the poor quality of the pic...
Any help is appreciate it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Is the rotor touching the solid part of the caliper mount on this side? I looked at mine and the gap is closer on this rotor and caliper than on the other side rotor and caliper. Mine is not rubbing so there is no problem with my spacing yet.

This rotor spacing is maintained by the small axle spacer between the wheel and lower fork leg. If the whole wheel needs to be shifted to one side of the other it would be possible to alter the spacer width to better center the wheel between the calipers. If I'm reading the picture correctly you would need to add material to the axle spacer to move the rotor away from this fixed caliper.

Try lossening the axle and pinch bolts and manually center the wheel so that the gaps between both rotors and calipers is even. Tighten the pinch bolts and try to determine the amount of change needed in the axle spacer. If the spacer needs to be thicker you could try to have a custom one made or add some type of shim with the same od and id as the axle spacer. Aluminum would be fine if you plan to make a whole new spacer. If the spacer is too thick the stock one could be machined down a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
Or try different thickness washers between caliper and mounting ear to compensate.

You aren't talking about a huge amount

Or check for rotor warp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
The problem is most likely related to a shift in the wheel bearing and/or a crushed wheel bearing spacer. You may want to start with removing the front wheel and placing the axle into the wheel from the throttle side of the bike. Lightly tap the axle as it bottoms out on the wheel bearing and see if the whole wheel bearing assembly moves into the wheel casting a bit. There is a stop that the bearing should bottom out on.

If the bearing is already bottomed out on the casting stop then the bearing spacer (#3 in diagram) may have been crushed by an overzealous mechanic when replacing the front wheel. If this is the case then the wheel bearings could be removed and a new bearing spacer put back in. If you go this far I would consider fresh bearings as well.

It is ok to leave the crushed (shortened) wheel bearing spacer and bearings in place as long as the bearings are ok. This is when you could take up the shortened space with a new longer machined axle spacer (#9 in diagram). Either way will work fine to recenter the wheel. The more correct way would be to replace the bearings and bearing spacer and install them to spec. If all the parts are in good shape and installed correctly the wheel should be centered evenly between the calipers.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Is the rotor touching the solid part of the caliper mount on this side?
Yes, look at photos

I looked at mine and the gap is closer on this rotor and caliper than on the other side rotor and caliper. Mine is not rubbing so there is no problem with my spacing yet.

This rotor spacing is maintained by the small axle spacer between the wheel and lower fork leg. If the whole wheel needs to be shifted to one side of the other it would be possible to alter the spacer width to better center the wheel between the calipers. If I'm reading the picture correctly you would need to add material to the axle spacer to move the rotor away from this fixed caliper.

Try lossening the axle and pinch bolts and manually center the wheel so that the gaps between both rotors and calipers is even. Tighten the pinch bolts and try to determine the amount of change needed in the axle spacer. If the spacer needs to be thicker you could try to have a custom one made or add some type of shim with the same od and id as the axle spacer. Aluminum would be fine if you plan to make a whole new spacer. If the spacer is too thick the stock one could be machined down a bit.
Everything is OEM on bike, on "new" forks, internals are RaceTech

Or try different thickness washers between caliper and mounting ear to compensate.
You aren't talking about a huge amount
Or check for rotor warp
...No warpage...check on lathe for bends, none...

The problem is most likely related to a shift in the wheel bearing and/or a crushed wheel bearing spacer. You may want to start with removing the front wheel and placing the axle into the wheel from the throttle side of the bike. Lightly tap the axle as it bottoms out on the wheel bearing and see if the whole wheel bearing assembly moves into the wheel casting a bit. There is a stop that the bearing should bottom out on.
If the bearing is already bottomed out on the casting stop then the bearing spacer (#3 in diagram) may have been crushed by an overzealous mechanic when replacing the front wheel. If this is the case then the wheel bearings could be removed and a new bearing spacer put back in. If you go this far I would consider fresh bearings as well.
"New wheel" is installed, torqued to 70Nm....

It is ok to leave the crushed (shortened) wheel bearing spacer and bearings in place as long as the bearings are ok. This is when you could take up the shortened space with a new longer machined axle spacer (#9 in diagram). Either way will work fine to recenter the wheel. The more correct way would be to replace the bearings and bearing spacer and install them to spec. If all the parts are in good shape and installed correctly the wheel should be centered evenly between the calipers.

Please take a look at following photos.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Sorry, I can't really help out any more without the bike in front of me. It is either a problem of the wrong combination of parts from different bikes, or something is bent or worn. Either way, you should take it apart and look at everything closely to make an assesment. If you still feel the parts should work then you may have to grind down or shim out the offending caliper to fit the fork and rotor better. The best option is always to get the correct parts fitted but minor adjustments are ok as long as you know what you are doing and keep everthing flat and true. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Sorry, I can't really help out any more without the bike in front of me. It is either a problem of the wrong combination of parts from different bikes, or something is bent or worn. Either way, you should take it apart and look at everything closely to make an assesment. If you still feel the parts should work then you may have to grind down or shim out the offending caliper to fit the fork and rotor better. The best option is always to get the correct parts fitted but minor adjustments are ok as long as you know what you are doing and keep everthing flat and true. Good luck.
Thank you anyways motoyoyo, it seams to me you're a Ducati tech and/or own a dealership or independent shop; I'll try to grind down or shim out the offending caliper; but as I said before, this was happening with the other fork too[Lh].

Thanks to all that have tried to help from a very long distance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Could your problem just be that you need to centre your wheel, how is the other caliper is the disk in the centre of the caliper or to one side.

Cheers
Jack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Could your problem just be that you need to centre your wheel, how is the other caliper is the disk in the centre of the caliper or to one side.

Cheers
Jack
Rh is OK...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
To all you who have tried to help.

Thank you very much.

At the end, a trip to a friend's machine shop, setting up the axle between two points on the lathe and the issue is solved, a bent axle, 0.25mm, at the highest point of the bend.

Thank you all very much, again.

Now, does anyone has a 25mm extra axle that can/want to sell? I've got no cc so paypal payment is impossible; moneygramm or western union is the best I can do.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top