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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2001 M750 has been running perfectly since the idle issue was solved. (Thank you Ronski. You were right, I didn't replace the battery. :smile) I took it out yesterday and did about 50 miles. The first half of the trip was smooth. Parked it for about 2 hours and then heading home, I noticed the front end felt wobbly when I'd take it hard into corners or when I'd go higher than 70mph. I thought maybe I had low air pressure and stopped at a gas station but psi was fine.



Bit of history... The handlebars were replaced because they were bent from when I went down last year but I don't think that would be related now. Then again it sat for a long time since the drop and handlebar replacement. When kept at lower speeds I feel no wobble at all. High speeds and hard turns, I get the feeling me and the asphalt are going to meet, again. So my question is what would cause a wobble?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You checked the rear tire too, right?
A low rear can make the front wobble and feel weird.

You checked the rear tire too, right?
A low rear can make the front wobble and feel weird.
Thanks for the reply, Monster4Lee. I did not know that the rear pressure could be the culprit. I need to check both. I had them at about 32 front/34 rear. That night when I checked the pressure on the front it was hot so I need to check them again cold. I cycle so I know how much tire pressure can effect the ride. I was told once that if I don't ride a motorcycle too hard, and I'd like a little more life out of my tires, try 40 front/40 rear. I haven't done that because, well, 1.) the manufacturer puts a max psi for a reason. I'm not comfortable going rouge on these matters just yet. 2.) the source does not own a motorcycle and never has. He heard it from Click and Clack on Car Talk, in reference to tires on a car. Lol.

I just started back riding my Monster in November after a long gun-shy hiatus from dropping it. Since Nov I've dropped 37lbs and I've read that could cause a difference in ride feel and bike performance. But would it go so far as cause a wobble?

Maybe I'll set them at 36/38 or so and see how that works out. But I will definitely check that back tire and hopefully that will sort it out.



Thank you again!
 

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Also maybe go by the shop and have them see if your steering head bearings are worn or damaged, or if you may have bent the forks any in your crash.

PhilB
 

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Also maybe go by the shop and have them see if your steering head bearings are worn or damaged, or if you may have bent the forks any in your crash.

PhilB
If you get help you can check this at home. Maybe not quite as close inspection as a pro, but...
There should not be any click or "detente" feel when turning bars side to side.
Should not be front to rear play in the front end, but you may need the front wheel off the ground to check that.
Also make sure tires are not worn out or worn funny.

I learned about the low rear effecting the from when I had a rear flat on my Tuono about a year ago.
Cruising along the back road and the front felt vague, started to wobble a little.
Then it got worse and turned into a tank slapper while I wondered what was going on. I was able to get it stopped OK, and the back tire was destroyed. If in doubt, pull over and check things out NOW, not later.

Good luck fixing the issue.
 

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I will just add a few things to what the other guys said.

Firstly, be careful over inflating bike tires, yes, car tires have less rolling resistance when hard, but bikes are meant to roll/lean around corners. Very hard tires bounce easier, something I wouldn't want hard over in a corner.

If you get front end off the ground, spin the wheel (with help of course), use flat of hand to check for shimmy or wobble of tire. Mainly, when a bike goes down, depending on the situation, the front end can 'dig in' pushing the tire sideways against asphalt. This can put a flat spot on tire which is either easy to see or not so. Your hand held against in various positions can feel this. sadly if it has a flat spot, then a new tire is the only fix.

Next, a more common cause of high speed wobble after crash is, the disk rotor(s) can get slightly bent in crash.
causing slight contact of one side of pads. Obvious effect is like intermittent braking on one side. Again, spin wheel and either use hand or plastic tool like handle of screwdriver held against forks to see if the rotors have any run out.

Check wheel alignment using string or straight edges, out of alignment can cause strange wobbles at speed.

Another check which would be least likely as the inverted forks are quite solid, get partner to stand in front and hold front wheel between legs firmly, try to turn handlebars side to side, see if any movement at triple clamps. Having ridden trail bikes with soft long forks, I was amazed how much play there was, also, do they look even at the top triple clamp. Difficult to see, maybe a shop check would be best if it gets this far.
Ducati's are much more solid but worth checking.

hope this helps,
Ron,
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Cheers for the replies! I finally got a chance to spend some time on this tonight. I checked the psi on the tires, cold this time. The back tire was low, 30psi. I inflated the tires back to 34 front/36 back. I took it for a ride and, though the shake isn't there anymore on the turns, it's still not tight beyond 70mph. But the rear air pressure helped greatly.


Monster4Lee, you mentioned back tire being an issue and since I'd been riding it a little too squidgy, there's a faint wear line that's formed on the tire that looks like it was made by a bulge between the rim and road. Maybe. It just seems to be the most obvious reason for the marking. I believe that's what Ronski was describing. The look of a "tire sideways against asphalt"? Overall the tires look fine aside from that rear wear line.



I took it back home and managed to take the weight off the front wheel and moved the handle bars from left to right and everything was moving smoothly. Nothing seemed to be catching anyway. I used a plastic carpenter's square and gave the front wheel a spin and I didn't notice any issues with alignment.



And Philb, I'm going to go ahead and take it to a shop so they can give it a once over, check the steering head bearings and forks. From what I've learned so far, I'd like to catch an issue before it gets really bad. The whole an ounce of preventative is worth a pound of cure.



Thanks again guys! :)
 

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Ounce of prevention for sure.
Let the pros check it out, they do it every day and have more knowledge and a better eye for things than most of us.
Got pics of the tire treads? How many miles and years on them?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ounce of prevention for sure.
Let the pros check it out, they do it every day and have more knowledge and a better eye for things than most of us.
Got pics of the tire treads? How many miles and years on them?

I'd been set on taking my bike to a shop today and getting some photos of the tires as I was supposed to be out of work early-ish. But things didn't go as planned at work and with my long commute... shops is closed. But, I'm still going to take her out for a bit. I'll get some photos of the tread and post them soon. The bike has about 12,500 miles on it now. When I purchased it the tires were new so that's 2,500 miles on them. The only thing I'm concerned about is the marks from the low psi wobbly rides. I don't know what damage I may have done but I believe I caught it early. :)



I'll be back with photos..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ounce of prevention for sure.
Let the pros check it out, they do it every day and have more knowledge and a better eye for things than most of us.
Got pics of the tire treads? How many miles and years on them?

Alrighty. I just made sure the psi was spot on and took out out. No wobble on turns but still a slight wobble at 80mph. I stopped and took some pictures of the tires so if there’s anything glaring I’d appreciate knowing before a shop take me for a ride. (They see me coming a mile away when it comes to cars so hoping to be armed with some knowledge before going in!)



I tried to resize these but I think they are still huge! Lol! Sorry. :/
 

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Bigger pics and more resolution is good for seeing detail.
Tires look OK to me from this distance. I see chicken strips, so looks like you are not pushing it hard. Which is fine.
Maybe you just need some suspension adjustment? :-\
 

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In this picture I have arrowed in red. Is this an alloy plate maybe with numbers on?
I have polished my rims, don't remember a plate on the rim etc.

Or, is it where wheel weights used to be? sometimes slack mechanics don't remove the old adhesive when replacing weights to balancing new tire, so may be ok.

Or, could the original weights be missing? out of balance front wheel can feel like a wobble at speed.

Hard to see from picture, but agree, tires look ok.

The local tire place here rebalances for very little ( $5.00) if you remove wheel and take in with disks attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I just got my bike back from a local guy who did an alignment and that fixed that! He checked the forks and tires, which he said are still on the new side. I had him checked the head bearings too. All good. The front wheel was out of balance.



The past couple weeks there are other issues that have been cropping up so I'm going to take it back to him soon. Since the handlebars were replaced, the horn hasn't worked and the choke is hard to operate. I went to get it inspected in December having forgotten that little detail about the horn but the guy passed it. I only just remembered it hasn't worked. Now the speedometer is not working either. Also there are dead zones in the power, it's fine up to about 3000rpms and then starts to hesitate at mid-range. It comes back again and hits another wall at high range. All sorts of little issues, but it's generally running fine. Now I've got a friend of mine saying I should just sell it and go buy an new 821 "with a quick shifter and those Termis you like and never look back." That it's time to graduate from my first street bike. Lol! So now I'm considering that. I'm more drawn to vintage bikes but for now I've offloaded the idea of a project Ducati. I've already picked up and sold two potentially awesome non-running bikes but I need to start smaller, like a General Five Star maybe. :)

What's a quick shifter anyway? I rarely have to use the clutch to shift as it is now so how much quicker does it get before it's automatic? :laugh The technology on the new bikes is unreal compared to my 17 year beast.

Thank you all for helping we work through this issue. You guys are the best. I've learned a lot through this one.
 

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The front wheel was out of balance.
One thing sorted, cool. Even if you decide to sell, it would be good to fix the other things first. Then you have a nice looking bike that needs nothing (right away). All bikes need love now and then, older ones more so. Yes, they have come a long way in the last 10 or 20 years, but a lot of the old bikes were cool and not too complex. My 14 Monster is cool, but really complex. I do appreciate the ABS and DTC safety items.

To simplify, a quick shifter is a button you hit to shift gears. No messing with clutch or throttle, the computer matches revs, cuts spark, makes the shift, peasy. Also complex electronics.

Ride safe.
 

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I'm with Lee on the older bikes, better looking and within my capabilities to fix. Would love a new bike but cannot afford one at my age. Eventually all things wear out, so a 20 year old bike is an ongoing duty of love and care.

So to next issues, changed the handle bars and now no horn, you may have to check either the horn itself or the switch unit on handlebars. sometimes new position of bars puts a strain on wiring, sometimes putting back on can dislodge the switch or even break a connection inside.

Same deal with the choke, you say it's harder to operate, how exactly? is it getting tighter to move or won't go to full on?
When changing bars, you may have pulled the outer cable out of it's retainer/holders. easy to do when getting it onto new bars, check both ends, make sure there is free play.
Check any cable ties that may prevent it moving to new location on bars hence pulling on cable.

In other words, it may be partially on. Could explain the strange running and hesitation etc. staying too rich.

speedo, some had issues with the actual speedo failing, but check the cable first. It's a bit fiddly, but disconnect from gauge, tape the end to something so you can see the cable inside, then sit on bike and move it forward, with engine or just push.
The cable should rotate. If not rotating, then think; 'wheel balance', the guy would have removed front wheel to balance, the speedo drive is on front wheel. Possible he did not fit the locator pins in properly and it's not turning.
easy fix unless the pins got damaged.

Amazing sometimes how fixing/changing one thing. can lead to other problems.

Have fun,

Ron.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I'm with Lee on the older bikes, better looking and within my capabilities to fix. Would love a new bike but cannot afford one at my age. Eventually all things wear out, so a 20 year old bike is an ongoing duty of love and care.
Wow. Thanks for pitching in again on these other issues. I appreciate it a lot. I figured it was out of my hands at this point but I’d love to sort this out in my own garage. The choke is hard to turn. It used to slide up and down with no effort. Since the new bars, it’s rather stiff. It still operates, just with less cooperation. I have to really push to get it to move. My ex was the one who replaced the bars so I’ll be coming at this new. I’ll check the points you mentioned and see if I can sort it out. When it comes to the gauges and electrics I can get intimidated because it’s not what I know, but I’m definitely determined to find out.

I completely get what you're saying about the upkeep on an older bike being a duty of love and care. The idea of a new bike turns me off if I'm honest. That friend of mine has a new Monster and keeps saying mine is on the edge of being a money pit. But, not if I can fix it! Thus my determination to learn how. Sure, it would more reliable. I’ve been told about the new technology but I have no idea what I’m missing. Plus, I don’t like the new Monster design as much as the older one.

I find the older I get, the less sophisticated I like things in general. I started out driving in a ’71 VW Beetle and loved the hell out of that car, for many reasons, one of which was I could fix most issues armed with a little common sense and some basic tools. And it was always breaking down. My father (who desperately wanted a son but had three daughters) loved how interested I was in mechanics and that I didn’t mind getting my hands dirty so he taught me to work on it. My first lesson was how to replace a float needle valve and a fuel line. We’d go to a local junkyard, pay $5 to the owner to poke around looking for parts. We found the valve in a wrecked Beetle and even the right sized fuel line in decent condition in an old BMW and got it running. I find there’s not a lot in life more gratifying than fixing something yourself.

If I bought a new bike, I wouldn’t be able to fix it. I wouldn’t attempt to customize it either. I’d think about the resale value, therefore already thinking it belonged to someone else, if that makes sense. Every time I start thinking about selling my Monster, I get angsty. I’ve already learned so much on this forum through this bike. Eventually I want to be able to do my own build. Bring some beautiful machine back from a rusty death. That’s on my bucket list anyway. :)
 

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That particular machine needs a set of proper Monster bent bars, the aftermarket bars are causing the switch gear and choke to rub. It wasn't easy to install the choke. It was a make do as it was like the 3rd set of bars on a bike in a few weeks. The switch gear must be replaced as the horn button is broken. Might be possible to take the entire gear apart and try to get the button released and back in place but for $40-50 you are better off with new switch gear on that side. The button got smashed when it pushed in the tank.

Your ex had a new set of switches, left and right, he ordered on eBay for that bike but has put them in the bin. It's my understanding that your ex did quite a bit of work keeping that bike running until the last accident had you park it for almost a year showing no further interest in the bike. At least that's what he had told me. I'm glad you have decided to ride it rather than sell as you had mentioned.
 

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Agree, some make the mistake of bolting down new bars, adjusting for position, then trying to get switches and choke, throttle etc. over ends of bars.
The switches, brakes etc. are in halves, so easier to do, but choke for example is circular and must be slide over ends, hence pulling out to ends to slide on. This can dislodge cables or kink them somewhere when pulling to ends.

I always leave bars loose, ie. no riser clamps on yet, get all switchgear and choke , throttles on. Moving the bars side to side to make fitting up easy. Then clamp in place. double checking throttles and choke rotate easily and smoothly.
You must check when positioning that there is no pulling on cables which causes sticking etc. sometimes removing cable ties from frame and re-routing is needed. As I said before, the outer cable may have pulled out at the adjusters.

Then of course, as Mike said, it may have got damaged in crash.

I have Triumph 'M' bars on my monster and they fit and work well.

good luck,

Ron.
 
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