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Discussion Starter #1
I need info on how make my bike more pwerful and faster.
I have done the following:

Quat D exhaust
K&N air filter
Synthetic oil
Cut open air box
Power commander
Dyno

HELP !
 

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mrfitguy said:
I need info on how make my bike more pwerful and faster.
I have done the following:

Quat D exhaust
K&N air filter
Synthetic oil
Cut open air box
Power commander
Dyno

HELP !
Paint it yellow.
 

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Jato's
 

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Synthetic oil? Never heard of this as a peformance upgrade.

How about 14t front sprocket, lighter flywheel, light-weight wheels and high compression pistons. Also consider an advanced riding course. A skilled rider can run rings around an inexperienced rider with a bike half as powerful.
 

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mrfitguy said:
I need info on how make my bike more pwerful and faster.
I have done the following:

Quat D exhaust
K&N air filter
Synthetic oil
Cut open air box
Power commander
Dyno

HELP !
Well, firstly, what exactly do you want when you say "more powerful and faster"?

A lot of people really like the results of shortening the gearing - mostly people drop one tooth on the front, some people go as far as -1 on the front and +4 or more on the rear. That doesn't make any difference to the power, and may actually make the bike slower in terms of the very top end speed-wise, but most of us reckon the bike _feels_ "more powerful and faster" with shorter gearing - it'll definitely go down the quarter faster with shortened gearing. (a big plus for this too is it's very cheap - you can drop to a 14tooth front without changing the chain, so you're going to be out less than $50 to try it out.) If "faster" means "lower laptimes" or "quicker through the canyons", then suspension and brake upgrades and lightweight wheels can pay off much better than engine work, and (without trying to impy anything about your riding skill) rider training usually make a much bigger difference than engine work...

If you actually want bigger numbers on a dyno, the next mod after the ones you've already done is probably getting the cams timed (read this for an explanation of what that means if you aren't familiar with it)

After that, the question becomes "how much money have you got?" You're then talking cams, hi-comp and/or big bore pistons, then head work, and if you've got _way_ too much money, forced induction...

I'm not too sure how much off-the-shelf stuff is available for the 800 motor, it's pretty new (at least compared to the 900), I see a fair bit of 1000DS go-fast gear around, but it might be that the 800 ends up being like my old 750 in that all the aftermarket manufacturers ignore them assuming that if you wanted big HP numbers you would have bought the 900 or 1000 instead... Which points to possibly the "sensible" solution, trade the 800 for a S2R1000, or even a S4R or S4RS (or, horror of horrors, an R1 or GSXR1000) - if you get _serious_ about engine work you could well find you end up spending _lots_ more than you would have if you'd gone this way in the first place - which is fine if you're doing it for the sheer joy of it, but it's by no means a "financially sensible" route to big HP...

big (grrr, beaten by Wanwo with most of my points before I'd finished writing the post!)
 

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the "sensible" solution, trade the 800 for a S2R1000, or even a S4R or S4RS (or, horror of horrors, an R1 or GSXR1000) - if you get _serious_ about engine work you could well find you end up spending _lots_ more than you would have if you'd gone this way in the first place - which is fine if you're doing it for the sheer joy of it, but it's by no means a "financially sensible" route to big HP...
Ditto.
The "full monty" -- heads, hi-comps, blah, blah -- will run you (I'm guessing) 5000 bucks and you'll end up with maybe equal but probably less bhp than a stock 100ds.

R1 or GSXR1000? Hell a R6 or GSXR600 would do it. Course now we're talkin' sensible again and if we were "sensible" we wouldn't own Ducs in the first place.
 
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