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Hey hey. So I have a 2013 Monster 796, and Im working on gathering as much info as I can to do my 7,500 valve check/ adjustment myself and I just have one question, kind of silly honestly but I just want to make sure I'm checking my clearances correctly. Hoping someone on here has done valves on a 796 that can answer this for me

So I have the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, measuring the opener is easy. But the closer gap is what's getting me. I know on older models, and on every tutorial video or document your supposed to push down on the closing rocker with a screwdriver etc. to get the clearance on the closer shim. From my understanding there are two ways to do this, you can press down on the rocker, and measure from the opener shim and subtract the difference, or measure down between the closing rocker and the shim. In my 796 workshop manual, it doesn't say anything about pushing down on the closing rocker to measure the clearance, it just says the same for both opening and closer measurements, "with valve at resting position" I assume that means TDC on (compression stroke) for the opener, and TDC (on compression stroke *with the rocker pushed down*) for the closer, but Im just unsure.

It also takes so much f'in force to push that rocker down! I cant tell when I have it pushed down all the way The videos make it look so easy. is that normal? If i try to measure the closer without pressing down the rocker, the clearance is, not surprisingly, 0. Which the spec for this bike is 0.0-0.05mm clearance (on the closer)

on my horizontal Cylinder, when I measure this clearance *with the rocker pushed down*, the closer shims are about .04 -.05mm out of spec (loose), but the bike runs fine and spark plug shows great health, which is why Im a bit confused

Im not sure how far out of spec they need to be to show significant performance loss, or any change in spark plug health.

My Vertical cylinder is a different story, i don't have the measurements on that one yet, but Im getting a bit of carbon fouling on the plug and some challenging cold starts and some minor hesitation from time to time. I know the bike can be running better, so I brought it to a local Ducati tech just to have everything looked over (without opening it up) and she suspects that one of my valves is a bit off on that cylinder and should be okay to wait out the valve adjustment until i hit 7500, in about 1500 miles.

Sorry if this is a bit wordy! It blows my mind that I can't find a single post or video about doing a valve adjustment on a 796, Hopefully someone can clear this up for me!

Thank you!
 

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The valve adjustment for 796 is the same as for the 1100 or the 1000 and the 696. The valve train design for all of these engines is basically the same. The only difference is the displacement.
It doesn’t take a lot of force to push down on the closing rocker. You only have to overcome the relatively light force of the closing spring.What you’re feeling is that after only two or three or four thousandths of movement you are pressing hard against the closing cam lobe.
 

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In my 796 workshop manual, it doesn't say anything about pushing down on the closing rocker to measure the clearance, it just says the same for both opening and closer measurements, "with valve at resting position" I assume that means TDC on (compression stroke) for the opener, and TDC (on compression stroke with the rocker pushed down) for the closer, but Im just unsure.
Hi Duca796, interested to read your post. I am in the same situation as you - trying to interpret the workshop manual.

I bought a 2013 bike this summer and spent some time working on it, and one of the last jobs on the list is valve adjustment. I replaced the belts last week, as I had them on hand and knew they were 20km overdue, so was nervous about it. Now I read that I will likely have to pull them again to adjust the valves. But, as I understand, I can at least check them with the belts still on. At least that's what it seems to say in the workshop manual.

Like you, I was confused by the "in the rest position" statement. I had assumed TDC and firing. Did you find this to be correct?
If so, I believe this occurs on the horizontal when the cam drive wheel marking is aligned with the crank-case mark. However, is there a way to find this for the vertical?

Any experience gained would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
James
 

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Hey hey. So I have a 2013 Monster 796, and Im working on gathering as much info as I can to do my 7,500 valve check/ adjustment myself and I just have one question, kind of silly honestly but I just want to make sure I'm checking my clearances correctly. Hoping someone on here has done valves on a 796 that can answer this for me

So I have the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, measuring the opener is easy. But the closer gap is what's getting me. I know on older models, and on every tutorial video or document your supposed to push down on the closing rocker with a screwdriver etc. to get the clearance on the closer shim. From my understanding there are two ways to do this, you can press down on the rocker, and measure from the opener shim and subtract the difference, or measure down between the closing rocker and the shim. In my 796 workshop manual, it doesn't say anything about pushing down on the closing rocker to measure the clearance, it just says the same for both opening and closer measurements, "with valve at resting position" I assume that means TDC on (compression stroke) for the opener, and TDC (on compression stroke with the rocker pushed down) for the closer, but Im just unsure.

It also takes so much f'in force to push that rocker down! I cant tell when I have it pushed down all the way The videos make it look so easy. is that normal? If i try to measure the closer without pressing down the rocker, the clearance is, not surprisingly, 0. Which the spec for this bike is 0.0-0.05mm clearance (on the closer)

on my horizontal Cylinder, when I measure this clearance with the rocker pushed down, the closer shims are about .04 -.05mm out of spec (loose), but the bike runs fine and spark plug shows great health, which is why Im a bit confused

Im not sure how far out of spec they need to be to show significant performance loss, or any change in spark plug health.

My Vertical cylinder is a different story, i don't have the measurements on that one yet, but Im getting a bit of carbon fouling on the plug and some challenging cold starts and some minor hesitation from time to time. I know the bike can be running better, so I brought it to a local Ducati tech just to have everything looked over (without opening it up) and she suspects that one of my valves is a bit off on that cylinder and should be okay to wait out the valve adjustment until i hit 7500, in about 1500 miles.

Sorry if this is a bit wordy! It blows my mind that I can't find a single post or video about doing a valve adjustment on a 796, Hopefully someone can clear this up for me!

Thank you!
I believe what you're referring to is the "Loaded and unloaded" method. No, it's not in any of the manuals. But neither is a lot of other useful information. It comes down to a matter of preference. If done correctly, both will lead to the same results. I prefer taking all my measurements from the top. For me it's simple consistent, and accurate. Some may find it a little confusing when simply checking the clearances on a motor that hasn't been done in a while. The key is to focus on double checking and recording everything clearly on paper all the way around first. Going through attempting to check, evaluate, and make decisions for each one as you go will usually get you to the point you're at now. Confused. Once you have everything down you can sit and examine the results to get a clear picture of how the valves on the motor as a whole are doing. If one seems to stray further than the rest, you can check it again and so on. I think you'll find it much easier to have it all right in front of you. Without trying to make sense out of each valve as you go. The bike may seem to be running fine, but the idea is to keep it that way. The specs are relatively narrow, and yet it can take quite a bit of neglect before you start noticing poor performance, odd behavior, valve wear and overheating, burned up guides, blown seals, eventually ending in total destruction if left unchecked. It sounds like you're getting them done by a shop in the near future. However you've taken it this far. Might as well learn the process of checking them at the very least. Or perhaps sit back and think of all the other cool things you could do with that cash you'll be handing over to the shop and tackle it yourself...
 

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Hi Duca796, interested to read your post. I am in the same situation as you - trying to interpret the workshop manual.

I bought a 2013 bike this summer and spent some time working on it, and one of the last jobs on the list is valve adjustment. I replaced the belts last week, as I had them on hand and knew they were 20km overdue, so was nervous about it. Now I read that I will likely have to pull them again to adjust the valves. But, as I understand, I can at least check them with the belts still on. At least that's what it seems to say in the workshop manual.

Like you, I was confused by the "in the rest position" statement. I had assumed TDC and firing. Did you find this to be correct?
If so, I believe this occurs on the horizontal when the cam drive wheel marking is aligned with the crank-case mark. However, is there a way to find this for the vertical?

Any experience gained would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
James
If you successfully replaced the belts, you already know about lining up all three of your marks on the pulleys to get you at TDC on the horizontal. If you get it to that point again, simply rotate the motor another 270 degrees. You won't see anything of importance on the pulley marks, but you will see the timing mark for the vertical through the sight glass.
 

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It sounds like you're getting them done by a shop in the near future. However you've taken it this far. Might as well learn the process of checking them at the very least. Or perhaps sit back and think of all the other cool things you could do with that cash you'll be handing over to the shop and tackle it yourself...
Hi Dvy3178 - thanks for the note. I like your idea of "measure and document, and take the time to digest it afterwards" approach. I've been slowing working on the bike - I bought it with 30,000 miles on the clock, and a solid service history from the 1st owner up to about 15k miles, and essentially nothing thereafter. So I have been tackling one job at a time, chain/sprockets, plugs, oil/filter, cam belts, and next the valve check/adjust.

I plan to do this myself, in two stages. First to check them And, second, assuming they need adjusting, investigate either getting a shim kit, or checking if my local dealer sells them as-needed.
Having just installed the new belts, I'd be annoyed to have to pull them again straight away just to check clearance.

The service manual seems to suggest checking the opening clearance from the top, and the closing clearance from the bottom - and it seems this can be done with the belts installed and the engine at TDC-Hoz-Firing. But I have also come across the loaded-unloaded method fo checking both from the tup and doing the maths. The YouTuber "BradTheBikeBoy" has some fantastic demonstrations on this Ducati Traditional 2 Valve - Adjusting Valve Clearances. His video is very clear and encouraging - with the one caveat that he says "if you plan on doing this with the belts still installed - go do something else..."

So, the questions are:
1) can I check the clearance with the belts installed?
2) Assuming TDC-Hoz-Firing is acheived by aligning the can-drive-wheel marking with the crankcase notch (as shown in the pic below) - Then how do we find TDC-Vertical-Firing? I assume a fixed rotation in a given direction?

Thanks for sharing your advice/thoughts!
James

225217
 

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If you successfully replaced the belts, you already know about lining up all three of your marks on the pulleys to get you at TDC on the horizontal. If you get it to that point again, simply rotate the motor another 270 degrees. You won't see anything of importance on the pulley marks, but you will see the timing mark for the vertical through the sight glass.
Ah - perfect - that's exactly the information I needed. I had just replied with a further questions when I noticed your response.
 

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Hi Dvy3178 - thanks for the note. I like your idea of "measure and document, and take the time to digest it afterwards" approach. I've been slowing working on the bike - I bought it with 30,000 miles on the clock, and a solid service history from the 1st owner up to about 15k miles, and essentially nothing thereafter. So I have been tackling one job at a time, chain/sprockets, plugs, oil/filter, cam belts, and next the valve check/adjust.

I plan to do this myself, in two stages. First to check them And, second, assuming they need adjusting, investigate either getting a shim kit, or checking if my local dealer sells them as-needed.
Having just installed the new belts, I'd be annoyed to have to pull them again straight away just to check clearance.

The service manual seems to suggest checking the opening clearance from the top, and the closing clearance from the bottom - and it seems this can be done with the belts installed and the engine at TDC-Hoz-Firing. But I have also come across the loaded-unloaded method fo checking both from the tup and doing the maths. The YouTuber "BradTheBikeBoy" has some fantastic demonstrations on this Ducati Traditional 2 Valve - Adjusting Valve Clearances. His video is very clear and encouraging - with the one caveat that he says "if you plan on doing this with the belts still installed - go do something else..."

So, the questions are:
1) can I check the clearance with the belts installed?
2) Assuming TDC-Hoz-Firing is acheived by aligning the can-drive-wheel marking with the crankcase notch (as shown in the pic below) - Then how do we find TDC-Vertical-Firing? I assume a fixed rotation in a given direction?

Thanks for sharing your advice/thoughts!
James

View attachment 225217
Check the valves with the belts on, Yes.. Adjusting and swapping out shims with the belts on, No way.
 

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Much appreciated!
I made a crude rocker depressor tool out of some cheap aluminum barstock from Tractor supply. It ended up working so well I had some laser cut out of 6160 with some other parts I was having made. You're welcome to have a set of you want. I've been slowly cutting them up whenever I need a bit of material for this or that. The 7 inch is great for on the bench if you have the heads off. I figured the 4 inch might be easier in some tight spots with the heads on the bike.
225218

225219
 

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Wow, that looks like a very nice little piece of equipment. And the laser cutting looks very professional. I'll try to get the valves checked this week. If they need doing, I might just take you up on that offer.
 

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Hey hey. So I have a 2013 Monster 796, and Im working on gathering as much info as I can to do my 7,500 valve check/ adjustment myself and I just have one question, kind of silly honestly but I just want to make sure I'm checking my clearances correctly. Hoping someone on here has done valves on a 796 that can answer this for me

So I have the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, measuring the opener is easy. But the closer gap is what's getting me. I know on older models, and on every tutorial video or document your supposed to push down on the closing rocker with a screwdriver etc. to get the clearance on the closer shim. From my understanding there are two ways to do this, you can press down on the rocker, and measure from the opener shim and subtract the difference, or measure down between the closing rocker and the shim. In my 796 workshop manual, it doesn't say anything about pushing down on the closing rocker to measure the clearance, it just says the same for both opening and closer measurements, "with valve at resting position" I assume that means TDC on (compression stroke) for the opener, and TDC (on compression stroke with the rocker pushed down) for the closer, but Im just unsure.

It also takes so much f'in force to push that rocker down! I cant tell when I have it pushed down all the way The videos make it look so easy. is that normal? If i try to measure the closer without pressing down the rocker, the clearance is, not surprisingly, 0. Which the spec for this bike is 0.0-0.05mm clearance (on the closer)

on my horizontal Cylinder, when I measure this clearance with the rocker pushed down, the closer shims are about .04 -.05mm out of spec (loose), but the bike runs fine and spark plug shows great health, which is why Im a bit confused

Im not sure how far out of spec they need to be to show significant performance loss, or any change in spark plug health.

My Vertical cylinder is a different story, i don't have the measurements on that one yet, but Im getting a bit of carbon fouling on the plug and some challenging cold starts and some minor hesitation from time to time. I know the bike can be running better, so I brought it to a local Ducati tech just to have everything looked over (without opening it up) and she suspects that one of my valves is a bit off on that cylinder and should be okay to wait out the valve adjustment until i hit 7500, in about 1500 miles.

Sorry if this is a bit wordy! It blows my mind that I can't find a single post or video about doing a valve adjustment on a 796, Hopefully someone can clear this up for me!

Thank you!
Hey hey. So I have a 2013 Monster 796, and Im working on gathering as much info as I can to do my 7,500 valve check/ adjustment myself and I just have one question, kind of silly honestly but I just want to make sure I'm checking my clearances correctly. Hoping someone on here has done valves on a 796 that can answer this for me

So I have the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, measuring the opener is easy. But the closer gap is what's getting me. I know on older models, and on every tutorial video or document your supposed to push down on the closing rocker with a screwdriver etc. to get the clearance on the closer shim. From my understanding there are two ways to do this, you can press down on the rocker, and measure from the opener shim and subtract the difference, or measure down between the closing rocker and the shim. In my 796 workshop manual, it doesn't say anything about pushing down on the closing rocker to measure the clearance, it just says the same for both opening and closer measurements, "with valve at resting position" I assume that means TDC on (compression stroke) for the opener, and TDC (on compression stroke with the rocker pushed down) for the closer, but Im just unsure.

It also takes so much f'in force to push that rocker down! I cant tell when I have it pushed down all the way The videos make it look so easy. is that normal? If i try to measure the closer without pressing down the rocker, the clearance is, not surprisingly, 0. Which the spec for this bike is 0.0-0.05mm clearance (on the closer)

on my horizontal Cylinder, when I measure this clearance with the rocker pushed down, the closer shims are about .04 -.05mm out of spec (loose), but the bike runs fine and spark plug shows great health, which is why Im a bit confused

Im not sure how far out of spec they need to be to show significant performance loss, or any change in spark plug health.

My Vertical cylinder is a different story, i don't have the measurements on that one yet, but Im getting a bit of carbon fouling on the plug and some challenging cold starts and some minor hesitation from time to time. I know the bike can be running better, so I brought it to a local Ducati tech just to have everything looked over (without opening it up) and she suspects that one of my valves is a bit off on that cylinder and should be okay to wait out the valve adjustment until i hit 7500, in about 1500 miles.

Sorry if this is a bit wordy! It blows my mind that I can't find a single post or video about doing a valve adjustment on a 796, Hopefully someone can clear this up for me!

Thank you!
 

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Hey man check out this video. I believe it will help
Thanks Ducaster, yes, this guy is excellent.
He is the guy who said "if you are thinking about doing this job with the belts still on, then I recommend you just think about doing something else..".
Which is what threw me to begin with.
Seems they can be checked with the belts on, but it seems best to remove the belts to do the change.
I'll post back here once I have the job done.
Cheers!
 

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Thanks Ducaster, yes, this guy is excellent.
He is the guy who said "if you are thinking about doing this job with the belts still on, then I recommend you just think about doing something else..".
Which is what threw me to begin with.
Seems they can be checked with the belts on, but it seems best to remove the belts to do the change.
I'll post back here once I have the job done.
Cheers!
Thanks Ducaster, yes, this guy is excellent.
He is the guy who said "if you are thinking about doing this job with the belts still on, then I recommend you just think about doing something else..".
Which is what threw me to begin with.
Seems they can be checked with the belts on, but it seems best to remove the belts to do the change.
I'll post back here once I have the job done.
Cheers!
 

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Thanks Ducaster, yes, this guy is excellent.
He is the guy who said "if you are thinking about doing this job with the belts still on, then I recommend you just think about doing something else..".
Which is what threw me to begin with.
Seems they can be checked with the belts on, but it seems best to remove the belts to do the change.
I'll post back here once I have the job done.
Cheers!
 

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Please, keep us posted. I would like to do the valves adjustment myself when time comes. Any insides will be useful and much appreciated!!! Good luck man!
 
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