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Discussion Starter #1
as a background, a 795 is basically a monster 696 chassis and wheels with the engine of a 796. the 795 was/is intended for the asian market, although the 796 is being sold here as well...

moving on, i've been meaning to replace my 795's dual-side swing arm with a single swinger, partly so it will acquire the sexiness of the 796, and mainly because i just like modding and working on my bikes, period. so comments like, "why not just sell your 795 and get a 796?" does not apply in this situation. and also, the end product (to me) will not be a 796, but rather a 795ss (ss for Single Swinger). so after gathering information and inspiration from those who've already done it on their 696, i decided to undertake my biggest mod attempt thus far...

here she is before the surgery


i had to prop her up on a front stand so i can pull out the front wheel for a new paint job to match the new single-side rear wheel


i replaced the tire under the bike with an automobile jack for more stability. i then removed the rearsets. the ugly oem "chicken wings" will be replaced by rearsets from an s2r monster i got from a fellow forum member


i unbolted the kickstand then i was about to remove the engine sprocket (14t) when i realized the clutch slave cylinder is blocking the way


so off the clutch slave goes


before going further, i took this opportunity to clean the gunk off the sprocket well. what can i say, i like my bikes clean in an ocd way


now comes the task of pulling out the dss. at this point the rearstand (where the dss rests) had to be removed first, so i had to fabricate a simple center stand made out of angle bars i got from a local junk shop and a few nuts & bolts from a trip to the hardware store. this fabbed stand will bolt onto the engine case where the rearsets are mounted


like so




more later as my internet connection slowed down and uploading of pics is taking longer than usual
 

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Very nice. I also have a 795. I'm living in Saigon Vietnam. Where abouts are you?

I also considered a SS conversion. I priced it up with a "full conversion kit" in Malaysia and by the time it landed, customs tax etc it would cost more than a 796 that was going to go on sale in a few months time (796 has been for sale here for about a couple yrs now)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice. I also have a 795. I'm living in Saigon Vietnam. Where abouts are you?

I also considered a SS conversion. I priced it up with a "full conversion kit" in Malaysia and by the time it landed, customs tax etc it would cost more than a 796 that was going to go on sale in a few months time (796 has been for sale here for about a couple yrs now)

thanks. i live in manila, philippines. i know it would have been cheaper to get the 796 in the first place, but that would be a lot less fun. in addition, i got a really great deal on the 795. so even after adding the cost (to the bike) of the ss ($1k), rear wheel and other parts i got off ebay, i paid a little less than the srp of the 796. the only things that made the whole project more expensive are the tools i bought and needed to undertake this. but then, i have an extra oem rearset and dss assembly complete with shocks, wheel, tire, brake system and speed sensor that i can sell off and fetch a substantial amount to finance my next project

yes, i've seen your posts in some of the threads. i like the mods you did on your bike, especially the triple clamp replacement. i might have to shoot you some PMs if you don't mind, when i decide to switch out the front end
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
sorry, i forgot to take pics of some steps while pulling out the dss. but i took the pics after the dss was removed just to illustrate how i did the process

there's a lock ring each near both ends of the pivot shaft that needs to be removed. for this, i used a small flat screw driver and a pair of long-nosed pliers


once the lock rings are undone, the pivot shaft is still held in place by a bolt and nut clamp situated under the chain slider which is fastened to the swing arm by two allen (4mm) screws at the top and bottom run. undo the screws and remove the chain slider to expose the pivot clamp




unfasten the nut of the pivot clamp with a 10mm socket and pull out the bolt

 

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yes mate, keep up the pics. Love me pics of DIY.
Feel free to shoot me PM's about 795's mate. I've done a bit of mods to it and its a bit of a learning curve as to what parts fit. 796 or 696 for various bits. When I was installing a Power Commander 5 it was for a 796... The 795 has 696 wiring loom...with the 796 engine so theres a couple plugs that don't play. Ended up going with a Bazzaz zfi (better choice afterall in my opinion)
The triple tree is a bit tricky with the height of bearings and the spacer. Got there in the end!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it's time to push out the pivot shaft. early on the ownership of the bike, i installed a pair of frame sliders. since the sliders came with its own bolt thru the frame, i have the oem frame bolt for use to tap out the pivot shaft. any straight piece of rod with a slightly smaller diameter than the pivot shaft may be used


to protect the pivot shaft from damage, i used an appropriate sized hex bolt attached to the end where the tapping rod, in this case the oem frame bolt, will make contact. you don't want the pivot shaft scored or dinged in the process


using the tapping rod and a rubber mallet, gently and carefully tap/push out the pivot shaft. for my purpose, i did the tapping from the RH side pushing to the left. while doing this, have a buddy (or your wife, if she's up to it) support the swingarm so it won't drop when the shaft comes all the way out



important note:

there are shims or friction washers between the swingarm and the engine case. these will fall off once the pivot shaft is out. according to the 795 parts manual, they come in 1.8, 0.2 and 0.1 mm sizes. depending on tolerances, the number of shims and sizes may vary from either side, for every bike, even between same models and i don't have the technical capability to determine which one, how many and where to put them. if you are like me, pay attention and just put them back where they came from... or somebody here with the expertise enlighten us regarding the shims
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yes mate, keep up the pics. Love me pics of DIY.
Feel free to shoot me PM's about 795's mate. I've done a bit of mods to it and its a bit of a learning curve as to what parts fit. 796 or 696 for various bits. When I was installing a Power Commander 5 it was for a 796... The 795 has 696 wiring loom...with the 796 engine so theres a couple plugs that don't play. Ended up going with a Bazzaz zfi (better choice afterall in my opinion)
The triple tree is a bit tricky with the height of bearings and the spacer. Got there in the end!
thanks. i shall seek advice if i do projects you've done already. i haven't gotten into the after market tuning kit yet, but even the local ducati dealer here is recommending bazzaz for my bike
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
rear has been amputated


now i have an extra 795/696 rear end assembly. i'm still on the fence whether to sell this or not


this is the monster 1100 (abs) swinger i got off ebay, complete with pivot shaft, rear shock, clevis, hub, spindle, rotor, speed sensor, rear sprocket assembly and rear brake system


i prepped for the ss installation by applying bearing grease to the bearings in the engine case


the pivot shaft also gets a light coat of bearing grease. the bolt clamping down the pivot shaft (not pictured, sorry) gets a coat of lithium calcium grease (intended for bolts/threads) to prevent it from seizing


the shock bolt connecting the rear shock to the swinger is also coated with lithium calcium grease


now the ss is ready to be installed. have someone (wife, optional) support the swingarm while you line up the holes to the engine case. gently tap in the pivot shaft, remembering to insert the shims where they came from between the swinger and engine case. bolt on the shock linkage with 8mm allen key and torque it to 42 newton-meters. install the lock rings on both sides of the pivot shaft. the shaft clamps for the 795/696 dss and 1100/796 ss are the same. the difference is, 795/696 clamp is on the LH side while the 796/1100 is on the RH side. torque the nut of the shaft clamp to 18 n-m using 10mm socket

you shall then be rewarded with a more compact rearend


aaahh, sexy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
staring at the hub/sprocket assembly, i felt the urge to take it apart and clean/lube it. for details and helpful hints of this process, please refer to this guy's (from australia) POST in another forum. although he worked on an older monster model, the hub/sprocket assembly is basically the same with the 796/1100. i used this post as guide


getting gunk off the hub shell


coating the hub with bearing grease


reinserting the hub. gently tap with rubber mallet

 

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Discussion Starter #10
installation of the spindle/axle/rotor assembly, RH side. again for details, refer to this POST

the rear brake bracket goes in



this is where it gets tricky, putting that huge lock ring/circlip back on in order to secure the brake bracket. just like in removing it, you need a pair of large lock ring pliers



then the spindle/axle goes in. coat the spindle/axle with bearing grease beforehand



you are now ready to mount the sprocket assembly on the LH side of the hub. forgot again to take pictures of the process but the post above i'm referring to is more than enough even for those mechanically challenged
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
now that the sprocket assembly has been mounted and torqued to specs, next up is the chain. since i didn't remove the chain from the dss, i bought a new chain. got the DID 525 VX pro-street x-ring chain, as opposed to the regina chain used on the dss

i also got me a chain tool essential for cutting and riveting the new chain


the DID chain came in a package of 110 links. per manual, oem 796 chain is 104 links. but on the dss (795), chain is 106 links. so i got conservative (in doubt) and cut only 4 links at first. test fitted and found chain to be 2 links too long. another cut and indeed only 104 links are needed


satisfied with 104 links, i put on the riveting anvil and pin in the chain tool and permanently affixed the chain to the drive system

as can also be seen in the photo above, i have already installed the sensor for the healtech speedo healer. as you must know, the oem speed sensor for the dss 795/696 (non-abs) uses 6 bolts from the rotor as "pick-up" signal. on the ss 796/1100 (non-abs), it picks up signal from only 4 rotor bolts. the speedo healer kit is essential to calibrate the speed indicated on the dash. otherwise, indicated speed is 30% slower than actual speed. for example in my case before calibration, my indicated speed was 70 kph but my actual speed based on gps was 100kph

since this bike (795ss) has effectively become a 796 clone, i shall base the specs as such. 796 chain gap at the bottom run halfway between sprockets says 61-63mm (middle of chain to swingarm). got out the spanner and initially adjusted accordingly


satisfied with the chain gap, took out the torque wrench and set to 31 n-m for eccentric hub pinch bolts. torqued at 1-2-1 sequence using 12mm socket


torqueing bolt #1 (31 n-m)


then over to bolt #2


then back to bolt #1


note:

after this initial adjustment, it is necessary to re-check the chain gap after the bike has been ridden a few rounds around the block... then re-adjust as needed
 

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very nice and with beautiful pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
haven't uploaded new photos yet. riding and work at the office got in the way

i've since ridden the bike for almost 500 kms with no issues. also got hold of the "new rage cycles" fender eliminator with tail light and turn signals... installed it already

will update this thread with more photos later
 

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Discussion Starter #14
got some time off to update...

now, for the rearset assembly. i didn't like the oem "chicken wing" rearset so i got something from the s*r monster. the kickstand should be installed with the left rearset as they share one of the three 8mm allen bolts (middle) to mount them. since the kickstand is bolted between the front mounting bracket and the engine case, the rear mounting bracket has an aluminum spacer (not shown in photo) behind it in order to get proper alignment of the rearset when bolted to the engine case. apply lithium calcium grease to the threads and torque these 3 bolts to 36 n-m



the rearset main bolt (24mm, hex, aluminum) goes in the swingarm pivot shaft. also coat with lithium calcium grease and torque this sucker to 55 n-m


then connect the gear lever linkages
 

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any chance of a pic of the whole bike now?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
to set my monster apart from the rest of the 796's here, i had a spare seat cowl modded (out of fiberglass) for the cafe racer look. i drew inspiration from MonsterMash31 who made a similar cafe racer cowl. except my seat cowl's "hump" is narrower, where it started outside the edge of the flat portion of the cowl

after prepping, i then had the cowl taken to the decal and vinyl shop where racing stripes were also added. i opted for vinyl wrap instead of paint because it is just a 30-minute to 1 hour job.
 

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