[Tcorse22]

Hello, I recently purchased a completely stock 2012 Ducati Monster 1100 EVO. It has 6,000 Miles. When I arrived to purchase the bike was having a hard time holding idle, randomly cutting out and dying. Once I can get it to idle it runs perfect. For this reason I purchased it for an excellent price. The bike was sitting for 5 years so before the sale the owner had the oil changed, new battery, fresh gas and new belts. (He claims he never had this idle issue before I showed up to purchase)

After I purchased I decided to do a few mods to see if it will help with the idle issue.

• New spark plugs
• REXXER tune - O2 sensor delete, Exhaust valve delete
• High flow air filter
• Competition Werkes Slip on Exhaust
• Deleted the Evap Canister

I am still having the same issues. The bike will fire right up, idle for 20 seconds and then die. It will then be a little harder to get it started back up, only holding idle for a few seconds. One time it started up perfectly and idled and ran like it should! I don't know where to start on diagnosing this. Does anyone have any tips for me? I appreciate it, thank you!

-TONY

 

[cs363]

I'd check the air bleed screws, especially if the anti tamper white plastic covers are missing as someone may have played with them previously. First step would be to check what position they are currently by winding them in gently until they bottom, counting the number of turns and make a note of that so you can return them to the same position if necessary.
More info here: Monster 1100 Evo sticking high idle

 

[ronski]

Sitting for 5 years?
No crank, check earth contacts for corrosion.
Give injectors a clean, seafoam, I think you guys call it over there, just put in tank.
Possible it has dried fuel deposits in there. I would give the whole fuel system a clean including new fuel filter.
New fuel won't clean out the crap.

 

[Tcorse22]

Sitting for 5 years?
No crank, check earth contacts for corrosion.
Give injectors a clean, seafoam, I think you guys call it over there, just put in tank.
Possible it has dried fuel deposits in there. I would give the whole fuel system a clean including new fuel filter.
New fuel won't clean out the crap.

Yep it was sitting on a non op for 5 years, crazy. Today I did a TPS Reset with my REXXER controller it seemed to help a bit. Its just very intermittent. I had it idling good after that. I will need to try again on a cold start tomorrow. I called my shop they said try TPS reset other wise could be something with the Idle Control Valve. I am going to try injector cleaner like you said as well. Thank you for responding, I appreciate it.

 

[Tcorse22]

I'd check the air bleed screws, especially if the anti tamper white plastic covers are missing as someone may have played with them previously. First step would be to check what position they are currently by winding them in gently until they bottom, counting the number of turns and make a note of that so you can return them to the same position if necessary.
More info here: Monster 1100 Evo sticking high idle

Ok I will check that, thank you for the idea.

 

[Dr Ducstein]

1. as suggested a complete removal, cleaning and filter change of fuel system is good advice.
2. if it is similar to 2009 monster then there are 2 mm diameter tubes that link a vacuum port to some funky vacuum valve body that gets crystals in the lines from running ethanol fortified fuels...these tubes must be free of obstruction..
3. if you suspect injectors are partially clogged...then have them ultrasonically cleaned at an injector servicee shop...and be prepared to buy new ones...afterall you got a deal...but sometimes these cleaning places mess up your injectors...they did so with my SAAB...
4. otherwise...fuel circulates in the pressurized line and is allowed into cylinder when the electrical pulse is issued...so checking cleanliness of all electrical contacts and wires is warranted

 

[Tcorse22]

1. as suggested a complete removal, cleaning and filter change of fuel system is good advice.
2. if it is similar to 2009 monster then there are 2 mm diameter tubes that link a vacuum port to some funky vacuum valve body that gets crystals in the lines from running ethanol fortified fuels...these tubes must be free of obstruction..
3. if you suspect injectors are partially clogged...then have them ultrasonically cleaned at an injector service shop...and be prepared to buy new ones...after all you got a deal...but sometimes these cleaning places mess up your injectors...they did so with my SAAB...
4. otherwise...fuel circulates in the pressurized line and is allowed into cylinder when the electrical pulse is issued...so checking cleanliness of all electrical contacts and wires is warranted

Thank you, I will keep this all in mind. Luckily it seems the issue has been getting better every time I ride it. Hopefully the bike was just sitting for too long and needed to be ridden.

 

[bopperoo]

The bike will fire right up, idle for 20 seconds and then die. It will then be a little harder to get it started back up, only holding idle for a few seconds. One time it started up perfectly and idled and ran like it should! I don't know where to start on diagnosing this.

Same here on a 796: bike will die 3-10 seconds into a cold start; used to be hard to coax back to life, but a new battery seems to have fixed this. Similar backstory too: original owner only put < 1800 miles, bike sat most of the time and starter issues go back to the day I picked her up, two years now.

Do you still have this problem? I hope the previous advice sorted things out for you and that you'll update long-term. Meantime if you don't mind, I'll share my situation here—figure it'd be nice to join forces.

For me, my biggest lead so far is the neutral sensor. Somehow, securing the neutral switch (& its connections downstream) seems to fix everything. This would be a really convenient fix as it also sorts out my disappearing neutral light.

But it'll be some time before I close the case for good:

1. It's currently winter here, so wondering how the < 40 F weather affects things. Will continue testing into summer to draw stronger conclusions. (But if we really do have the same problem, then I guess weather is moot since you're in Cali.)
2. There's a previous post that suggests tight valve clearances as the culprit. I'm due for my desmoservice soon, so will see how that helps. Interestingly, this is the only post I've found that treats clearances as the problem. Am very curious to see whether SDRider's situation was a one-off.

There are lots of posts here & in other forums expressing our problem. Trouble is, the source could be anything, and we may just diverge there. Just gotta keep at it. Good luck

 

[Tcorse22]

Same here on a 796: bike will die 3-10 seconds into a cold start; used to be hard to coax back to life, but a new battery seems to have fixed this. Similar backstory too: original owner only put < 1800 miles, bike sat most of the time and starter issues go back to the day I picked her up, two years now.

Do you still have this problem? I hope the previous advice sorted things out for you and that you'll update long-term. Meantime if you don't mind, I'll share my situation here—figure it'd be nice to join forces.

For me, my biggest lead so far is the neutral sensor. Somehow, securing the neutral switch (& its connections downstream) seems to fix everything. This would be a really convenient fix as it also sorts out my disappearing neutral light.

But it'll be some time before I close the case for good:

1. It's currently winter here, so wondering how the < 40 F weather affects things. Will continue testing into summer to draw stronger conclusions. (But if we really do have the same problem, then I guess weather is moot since you're in Cali.)
2. There's a previous post that suggests tight valve clearances as the culprit. I'm due for my desmoservice soon, so will see how that helps. Interestingly, this is the only post I've found that treats clearances as the problem. Am very curious to see whether SDRider's situation was a one-off.

There are lots of posts here & in other forums expressing our problem. Trouble is, the source could be anything, and we may just diverge there. Just gotta keep at it. Good luck

Well I feel less alone knowing I am not the only one who had this issue LOL. I am starting to realize that these bikes are much more cold blooded than the Japanese bikes and Harleys I am used to owning.

I started with running a tank with fuel system cleaner through it (Redline Fuel System Cleaner). After this, the idle problem seems to have diminished a bit. My bike was sitting for so long that I believe it just needed to be ridden. When I cold start my bike now it will start & idle fine unless I blip the throttle while cold (It will then die). I really let the bike idle and get warm now (no revving) before i take off, and it has been fine. I don't ride often so I will continue to monitor it when I do and keep you updated. Please do the same!

 

[bopperoo]

Well I feel less alone knowing I am not the only one who had this issue LOL. I am starting to realize that these bikes are much more cold blooded than the Japanese bikes and Harleys I am used to owning.

For sure. We got your back here These bikes definitely have personality, and we absolutely love it.

Good call on warming up the bike. There are cool videos online where you can see how long the oil takes to get places, a reason to let her get in the mood.

I don't ride often

Finally a problem we all know how to solve

 

[Tcorse22]

For sure. We got your back here These bikes definitely have personality, and we absolutely love it.

Good call on warming up the bike. There are cool videos online where you can see how long the oil takes to get places, a reason to let her get in the mood.


Finally a problem we all know how to solve

😂😂Yes I definitely need to ride more. Looking forward to the spring/summer