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Discussion Starter #1
Long time lurker, first time poster.
HELP!

I've had my 1100 Evo for approximately 18 months and this is the first bit of drama. This is my 2nd 1100, the first one was written off by a Cab driver on his mobile.

Here's how it goes:

- Failed to start one morning. Leading up to it, temperature in Sydney Australia was starting to drop. Starting would take 2-3 goes, and would start first go if the engine was warm.
- Now, slow crank, made quicker with throttle open. Left the bike on charger otherwise would kill the battery trying to start
- Things I’ve checked:
○ Replaced spark plugs - I have spark to each cylinder (don’t know if it’s good or bad spark - but I have spark)
○ Measured all battery leads - within spec
○ Checked voltage regulator diodes - all perfect
○ Used a different battery - same issue
○ Checked timing belts and indicators - all good
○ Swapped both relays around - no difference
○ Pulled the fuel tank apart and inspected the fuel pump, filter, electrics, and pipes - all good. Pressure OUT / IN tested - plenty, but don’t know how much exactly. My thumb had a hard time stopping the fuel coming out when I turned the ignition on - I however didn’t try to crank whilst I had my thumb on the IN to simulate backpressure to injectors
○ NOT the starter solenoid or starter - she cranks

- Now, here’s where it gets interesting
○ This method mostly doesn’t work, but may be a hint of what’s going on. I tried the extra priming trick where you leave the kill switch on and press the start button for up to 17 seconds. The bike backfired, so at least I know I have COMBUSTION. Leave the bike ignition on (with charger on of course) for 10 minutes, come back, start bike with open throttle - she starts. Left on and rode around the block 4KMs, turn engine off in garage - won’t start again.
○ I then inject 5ml of petrol per cylinder - get the same behaviour as the primer trick, but instead of backfire, the engine tries to start and nearly catches on. Leave the bike for 10 mins with ignition off. Return to bike, primer trick, attempt to start - and she starts!

Any pointers would be appreciated.
(I don't know what happened to my first post - as I can't find it. Apologies if this comes out a 2nd time).
 

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Tried resetting the TPS? That's been about the only issue my 1100 Evo ABS Monster has had (twice), ah, apart from a faulty regulator. Dealer job if you haven't got the right jpdiag(?) software and connector.. Either way fault codes can be read too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tried resetting the TPS? That's been about the only issue my 1100 Evo ABS Monster has had (twice), ah, apart from a faulty regulator. Dealer job if you haven't got the right jpdiag(?) software and connector.. Either way fault codes can be read too.
Thanks for the response, alancsalt.

I've tried two ways to reset the TPS - the turn on to ignition * x number of times, and even tried it with Tuneboy. This is also my back-up ECU.

By regulator, do you mean Voltage Regulator / rectifier, which I've verified as OK?

Yes - sounding like a dealer visit.
 

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Mine had a similar problem but only on hot starts, slow to turn over when trying to start, dealer is replacing alternator and sprag clutch,

I thought it would have been an intermittent short with the starter motor or mechanical interference as the starting volts when cold was 10v under load and 8v under load when hot.

I’m still waiting for it to be repaired I’ve only had it in my possession for one day and that was 26th April.... parts apparently take a long time to reach Australia!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ouch!

I've seen on Aprilia forums how they've got around their hot start issues - swapping out the cable between starter solenoid and the starter to 12 gauge. May not apply to us, but might be worth a shot - cheaper, too.

Let us know how you go.
 

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Mine had a similar problem but only on hot starts, slow to turn over when trying to start, dealer is replacing alternator and sprag clutch,

I thought it would have been an intermittent short with the starter motor or mechanical interference as the starting volts when cold was 10v under load and 8v under load when hot.

I’m still waiting for it to be repaired I’ve only had it in my possession for one day and that was 26th April.... parts apparently take a long time to reach Australia!
Don't know who you're dealing with, but I've never had to wait that long for parts with Arthur Davis at Ducati HQ Byron Bay. Mind though, I've not had starter problems...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I bit the bullet. After wrestling with it to start for 4 hours - she eventually started, and I dropped the bike off at a dealership. I'll update this thread when I find out what the go is.
 

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I removed my evap canister soon after having these issues. I have installed a Shorai battery that seems to be helping, but can’t figure out why because it seemed to be turning over just fine before.
 

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I had a very similar starting issue on my ‘09 1100. I made new cables from fine wire welding cable. The cables made no improvement in starting. My problem completely disappeared and has never reoccurred since I replaced the battery. The battery that was in it had 180 cranking amps. I replaced it with a Yuasa battery that has 230 cranking amps. Problem solved. I guess the problem lies in the fact that with insufficient cranking amps the voltage drop is enough to cause a weak or loss of spark.
 

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2012 Monster 1100 eve cold start issue

Wanted to share my experiences with this issue:

2012 Monster 1100 EVO:
Hard starting issues when cold.
1) Replaced battery with Shorai lithium: Definitely helped cold start issue (due to higher voltage output) But, still not right.
2) Replaced all high-voltage cables with Motoelectric cables: Helped a little. Still not right.
3) Removed charcoal canister: No discernible difference to starting issue.
4) Removed exhaust "flapper" cable and servo motor: installed DUC.EE exhaust servo eliminator unit. No change to starting issue: resolved intermittent CEL. This has got to be the most convoluted bastardized emission band-aid I have ever seen...get rid of it!
5) Removed O2 sensors and installed eliminator kit: No change to starting issue; but "Popping" on deceleration is noticably "less". (Running Termi slip-on's).

Long and short: Damn bike still does not start as (I think) it should when cold.
Lots of output from this battery, so I do not think this is a voltage issue.

Sending in the ECU to Rexxer today for re-mapping/flash. If that does not work will look at TPS/starter/voltage regulator/stator.

BTW: David @ Rexxer told me there is an "Updated" Voltage regulator that (along with a strong battery) resolves this issue (?). Not sure this will help me since I have a strong battery and it seems to be charging correctly.

Will update when re-flashed ECU is re-installed.
 

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Update Post-flash:

Does the bike start better?
-Yes, I think so.

Definitely runs better < 4,000 rpm with less Popping on deceleration (even though I removed the O2 sensors previously).

BTW: David from Rexxer is adamant that you do not install lithium batteries on these bikes.

Ordered a "lithium" voltage regulator from Rick's that has a lower set point than the stock unit: I think this should be done if you are going to run a lithium battery (stock unit set-point is too high for lithium charging specs.).

The 30 second key on/20-second key off/start procedure seems to work.
I guess that will be my new starting procedure.
 

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Is David worried about damage to the bike or lithium battery? I will have to look into the regulator.

You seem to be running about the same setup that I am now. Same map also. The bike definitely runs better, but still has the occasional failure to start when cold. Before changing to the lithium battery and even with the map from David, there would be times I could not get it to start at all and would give up. This would last for several days and then for some unknown reason it would just start. With the lithium battery I’ve only had this issue a couple times this summer, but I was eventually able to get it started after a few minutes. So I’d hate to have to go back to a lead acid battery.
 

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30-day update post flash and other mods (outlined above):

AUS-10 question above: David had his Ducati shop burn down due to a fire caused by a lithium battery. Hence he is anti lithium(s) without BMS (battery management systems); which protect the battery from over charging, etc. This makes a lot of sense to me because I run lithiums in my RV/Solar array, and have installed different chargers to accommodate the lithiums.

As noted earlier, I also installed a lithium specific voltage regulator (Ricks) when I installed the Lithium battery.
Starting: (noted above), seemed to improve after all the mods, it is still not as good as it should be. Just finished a 2,500 mile trip up into the Canadian Rockies: lots of rain and overnight temps. in the 40's (f). Bike took forever to start in the morning. Without the lithium battery I'm not sure the bike would have started (I think I would have drained a standard battery with all the cranking). Warm starts are almost immediate.

Not sure where to go from here: TPS/rebuild the starter (seems like I am just replacing and/or rebuilding everything in the system)...

Any suggestions?
 
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