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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i only have ridden it once and that's when i bought it. other than finding a carb'd 900, the other hoop i had to jump through was the fiance. i really glad money talks cause i had to pay her off the get a bike. but you know what i don't think i could have ever been more happy with buying another car than my new other girlfriend. the bike. haha. i have a lot of work and money to happily spend on my baby. well i wish i could have gotten a better before picture, but i was too edger to start refreshing and fixing almost everything.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Big F**kin To Do List
xhelmet(bell star)
-jacket
xbar end mirrors
-new plugs
-plug wires
xfuel filter
xfuel hoses
-check valves
xk&n filters on carbs
xemission delete
-install aluminum flywheel
-dry battery
xnew batt. box
xrear height risers
-chain
-oil change
xcase saver
-f & r sprocket
-new instrument panel(torino)
-superbike kickstand & bracket
-seat cowl or mono seat
-mono rearsets
-clean and seal tank
-bleed r. brakes
-plate relocate
-r. turn signals in frame
-fork
-clutch assembly
-wheels
-powdercoat frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well i started to install the aluminum flywheel. thumbs up on clutch slave trick to split the cover away. the only 2 complaints i have are that alternator nuts really on there and i don't have an impact wrench. i was really scared when i heard metal fall when the cover came off, but quickly found where it came from. somehow my fork return spring snapped. talk about dumb. now i have to quickly find a spring and Macgyver it on. i don't want to leave the bike long without oil in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
flywheel new vs old



on the shifter fork spring, strange enough the dealership had one. it was only like $3.40. the parts guy said,"that's probably the cheapest part you can buy for a ducati".

well after i got home and was looking how to install this f**ker. the repair manual was saying remove the entire shifting assembly.NOPE! since the spring is shaped like a key ring. like on your car keys. i pushed one side of the spring on the blade of the selector and rolled it until it was on.

the same concept of pulling a key on a key ring.

since the spring was new i didn't see any disfiguring from stretching it a couple mm's.

sorry that i don't have any thunder behind my wording.

more pics and crap to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
since i busted up my arm at work i've had some well deserved time off. this past friday i went and got my learners permit and yesterday i finally got my bike legal after owning it almost 3 months.

so on the way to the BMV, i noticed my speedo jacking off. i wasn't too concerned about it, but i thought i finally worked out the kinks. after enjoying some of this nice mid 40s weather, i called my friend that owns a bike shop and picked up a bike computer. the only time consuming was measuring the circumference of the wheel in mm's, and mounting the sensor magnet.

i just got done measuring the wheel and on my front tire the circum. was 1886mm. it actually came out to 1885.94, but rounded up. on the magnet mounting i asked my buddy for a bladed spoke magnet, since they are meant for non-traditional spokes. i'm going to mount the magnet one on of the spokes of the front rotor. i had to do a little dremeling for a better fit. the only thing i have to now is to find a longer screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i haven't rode it at night yet, but when i'm in the garage at night it seems more intense straight ahead. when i kick the highs on i'd probably kill someone and it's not HID or anything.

the lense is only 1/8in thick lexan. i bought at a local glass shop for a little less than $12. it would be cheaper but i bought a little extra.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah if it's not snowing i'll take some pics in the daylight.

midwest weather is just plain retarded. 3 days ago it was riding weather with 55 and sunny, and today's high 32 with snow and wind chill in the singles
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
here's the pic with the lexan lense.



finally got all my parts i bought from Chris(motored-sports) and my cowl from KEH.



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
when i go back out to the garage i'll take a pic of something i kinda thought up. nothing crazy but really helps if you have stock sets and OE monster kickstand. now after doing this, i can put off buying a superbike now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
since on my bike the only dash lights work are, the turn signal and low fuel. with that said, i pulled the kickstand switch out. i know i could have just put another bulb in, but i want to make a smaller, simpler dash anyway.

for the time being, i'm making the stock sets work. the problem i've have is the angle of the lever hitting the kickstand. so i found this simple fix. it would be a lot better if i could find a set screw, but this is working just fine.

1st pic doesn't have the bolt in


2nd pic has the bolt in slightly adjusted


close up of sidestand bracket



in the How-To/Faqs (performance, upgrades section), there a thread about doing a tailchop on a 95 frame. one of the problems that was posted was the locking mechanism is in the way, so only a half chop is possible. after brainstorming some more, i came up with a very simple and cheap solution. the only down side is that you won't have a locking seat anymore, but that won't be a problem. when i pick up the last piece to finish it, i'll post plenty of pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ohhh. forgot to mention the entire purpose of the bolt. it's to move the kickstand down more to clear the selector lever. so basically it's a kickstand stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
here's my sneaky pete seat latch.

parts:
auto hard brake line
nut
bike brake inner cable
odyssey cable knarp
some type of clamp
m6 allen bolt








Here's a pic of my current dash. it's kinda embarrassing. left & right signal, and low fuel light.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i'd like to re bend another brake housing to get a cleaner looking one. now i just have to chop that frame.>:D

one thing you have to take note of is, on the bottom of the seat there are a foot on each side of the seat that contour to the frame. you have to bend the brake line around the foot for the seat to shut.

also on the brake line, i just went to the auto store, and asked for the smallest sized line they had. i think it was 3/16 maybe and was only like $3. also you have to slightly drill out the latch where the original cable went in. the hole is a little small for the threaded brake line fitting to fit through. on the nut i used it's a standard size thread. i picked it up at the auto store as well.

if there's anything i can help out with just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
AWWWWWWWWW SH!T DAWG!

my sargent seat came in the mail today. after looking at the fit, i read the label. monster 00+. but ya know what, i can live with the not so noticeable fitment against the tank. especially when it was $100shipped and paypaled.

thanks KEH
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Before complete chop






After Chop






to make the frame and taillight flow better, i'm probably going to angle the little frame stub upwards.
 
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