It is possible to do, just difficult to do correctly. Getting the carbon fiber blanket to stay in place while pouring the epoxy can get interesting for someone with little experience. No heat involved just time consuming getting molds made for what you want and getting the CF blanket and resin just right. good luck.
Well, the materials are expensive. And to do structural CF layup does require heat and/or vacuum bagging. Without bagging you end up with a part that weighs the same as FG or plastic, so the only benefit is cosmetic.
If using epoxy one thing to consider is yellowing.....some epoxy resins are much better then others in that regard. West resins for example at least used to be very yellow, as are others. Wouldn't worry about vacumn bagging a small part. The main thing is getting the excess resin out of the lay up.
To answer your question you could use the oem hugger coated with mold release and do your lay up over that. Do one lay up check and if it is good let it harden for awhile but before it goes completely hard start the next layup so you get a good bond. I would not try to do the whole thing at once if you haven't done lay ups before, rather build it in several layers. This will give you time, and experience. Use a good pliable squeegee to lay up and remove excess resin. It is easier to trim things before the resin goes completely off or gets too hard. Get a good scissors, and lot's of acetone to clean the scissors and squeegee, and anything else you want to clean resin off of. Cut the tops off gallon jugs to make acetone baths, use two or three so the last stage acetone is clean and won't leave any crud on you or your tools. Use a good respirator and gloves and an apron and bad shoes and clothes. After you have your layup done you can remove it from the mold.
you can then sand edges, drill, etc, lightly sand the piece for a good bond and do the gloss coat with a brush. You can then wet sand and buff. If you burn through just add another gloss coat to the area. You could prolly spray the gloss too and even spray poly over the epoxy but the bond may not work so well that way. You could also spray the epoxy with a gun. You will prolly have to thin the expoxy though. Dunno it that helps, there are other ways, this is just the way I was taught. Clark Foam may still carry everthing you would need also. They supply the surf board industry.
If you use poly instead of epoxy, the resin process is a little different between the lay up and sanding coat. the lay up resin remains tacky, to continue lay ups. Also you will have less time before the resin goes off, unless something has changed, it's been ten years since I have worked with the stuff. But poly will be clear, and makes finishing easier also or finding a poly in spray can for finish work or later touch ups easier.
Here is a useful link if anyone really would like to attempt making something
by hand using a form. Especially check the rubber squeegee and shears for glass cutting. Very useful, especially the squeegee. For working on round surfaces it is a good idea to cut the squeegee with a crisscross pattern to make it very flexible...using a thin bondo type squeegee will just catch and pull the carbon.
I would add to my previous post trying this would not be easy without prior experience in working with laminating by hand, but not impossible by any means. In thinking about it if I did hugger like that myself I would prolly use polyester resin with carbon and S glass on top.
This applies to everything in life: Those who are successful fail. They fail because they try, and in every failure there is always success. It took me a long time to realise this - now I have my own very successful business and made more money last year than I did as an employee over the last 7. JUST DO IT. If you fail, keep track of what you've learned, and apply it the next time. As an architect I've learned everything is a process. (end of rant - thankyou)
I plan on trying this as soon as I get these projects out of the office. I'm planning on attempting a gas tank. First I'll model it in AutoCAD, and then create a series of sections cut at 1/2" increments (I can get the blue foam insulation sheets in 1/2" increments). Then I'll cut out the profiles and glue them up. That way I'll start with a symetrical blank. I think as many people that want to try this should and use this forum to share what they've learned. I will certainly make any info / drawings available as well.
"The measure of a man isn't how few mistakes he makes, but how he manages the ones he does" - me.